Recplaced heater core, now no fuel pump

[2FordsChris]

I have browsed about 10 of these same discussions, unfortunately most of them don't post the solution. I found 2 that were a missed connection. I have been back through it again and can't find any missing connections. Engine cranks and everything works other than no fuel pump and no dash warning lights. Brights indicator will illuminate, otherwise nothing when first turn on the key.

I did unhook almost everything as I took apart the entire colored dash trim and undid the black ducting component from the wiring harness. Tried to follow the manual, have seen you tube videos now where I could have made it much easier for myself.

I have reset the inertia shutoff switch, confirmed power to the shut off switch, bypassed shut off switch, checked all fuses, confirmed power to relay in the power distribution box, ohms tested relay and switched out the horn relay for the fuel pump relay.

I just checked for power at the fuel pump and appears to not have power. I disconnected the wire connection on the side of the fuel tank and tested with volt meter at the black and the black orange wire and the yellow/white and pink/black with key on and no voltage.

I have not checked for spark or checked fuel pressure as I do not have a gauge, but will get one if needed. I think I first need to figure out why no power to the fuel pump.

As far as I can tell, I do not have an anti-theft RAP module, but have done the reset things in the course of all of this and tried a different key.

Any other ideas out there? PCM? I am about to go check this now, but wanted to know if any one else out there had the answer on this one. Thanks ahead of time for your input.

 

[Bedrck47]

well the first thing you need to do is state which year engine and model you have. That helps others give you information specific to your problem.

The second thing is if everything was working prior to you taking things apart then I would suggest you go back and retrace your steps

Which manual are you using?

You may also want to check to see if you have voltage into and out of the fuel shutoff switch

 

[2FordsChris]

Update

Sorry, 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4L. Not sure of exact package model, base?

I have re-traced my steps as I had it 90% back together before I realized that it wouldn't start. It is all back apart again with everything that needs to be connected (I think) back connected and I found no connections that I missed the first time around.

I did check for voltage into and out of the fuel shut off switch and also bypassed it, which was in my original post, and that didn't help either.

I just checked for fuel pressure at the schrader valve by depressing it without a gauge and there is no pressure at all.

I also just checked spark with a volt meter to the Coil Over Plug connection and with a timing light over this wire and there is no spark either.

Now that I know there is no spark either, it either complicates things or simplifies them, not sure which right now.

Starting to lose my mind, that's why I need to borrow yours

I have the Haynes Repair Manual.

Thanks again - more thoughts?

 

[2FordsChris]

Update

Just to check, went back and plugged in everything but my power points (cigarette lighters) and still no go.

As far as anti-theft, I have tried two different keys, tried locking and unlocking the driver door with the key, turning off and on the key several times, and the battery has been unhooked multiple times during this whole thing. I don't see any alarm light or reset button that I have read about.

I have one open connector under the steering wheel, gray, that I believe is for a trailer brake as I picked up on this from another board discussing this same topic. I hope that helps.

 

[stamp11127]

When you first turn the key to run do the gauges sweep?

 

[Bedrck47]

check to see if you reconnected the grounds at the kick panels

 

[Bedrck47]

your other error is using a Haynes Manual Get yourself a copy of the ford workshop manual on DVD its specific to your year and model and also includes factory wiring diagrams

 

[2FordsChris]

Reply

Gauges do not sweep.

All 3 grounds are connected - 2 drivers side. 1 passenger side.

 

[Bedrck47]

fuel pump wiring

 

[stamp11127]

Use the KISS method of troubleshooting - Check the obvious first.
Battery voltage - should be fully charged and read 12.6v
Battery connections - clean and tight, no corrosion
mega fuse - not open (blown)
the 3 large bulkhead connections driver side if you disconnected them. Need to make sure they are seated correctly. If you didn't disconnect them leave them alone.
Grounds are intact and clean.

You should have voltage at some point them it will drop off to 0 if the grounds check out.

Not meaning to sound like an ass, but logic says if it worked prior to the disassembly and doesn't work afterwards, something isn't connected or isn't connected correctly. When that happens to me I usually say "sheet, I missed something". I also stand there in disbelief wondering if I have to tear it back apart. If the blood pressure starts increasing I put the tools away and think about it overnight....learned that years ago.

 

[stamp11127]

Roxy don't knock the Haines manuals, I've used them to start a few fires when I needed to burn some leaves around here.

 

[Bedrck47]

check the C160 connector drivers side firewall

 

[Bedrck47]

Stamp Do you really think they are good for that

 

[stamp11127]

Sure, I'd post a pic of one in action but I don't have any more.....
They did serve a purpose back in the days before electronics took over. But they are lacking in the modern world of today.

 

[2FordsChris]

Use the KISS method of troubleshooting - Check the obvious first.
Battery voltage - should be fully charged and read 12.6v (Check)
Battery connections - clean and tight, no corrosion (Check - cleaned just in case)
mega fuse - not open (blown) (Check) (Thanks for suggesting this, hadn't checked, these would be visibly blown right?)
the 3 large bulkhead connections driver side if you disconnected them. Need to make sure they are seated correctly. If you didn't disconnect them leave them alone. (I disconnected these on both passenger and drivers side per my future fire starter manual, but have been back through all of the connections, even color taped everything to make sure that everything had a mate, and were securely connected.)
Grounds are intact and clean.

You should have voltage at some point them it will drop off to 0 if the grounds check out. (Check - thanks for the info on how to check this)

Not meaning to sound like an ass, (not at all, I have had all the same thoughts as below) but logic says if it worked prior to the disassembly and doesn't work afterwards, something isn't connected or isn't connected correctly.

Going to get a code reader and see what that throws my way. No check engine light as my warning lights don't illuminate.

Any other thoughts? What is in common with dash warning lights, gauges cycling on start up, and shutting down the fuel pump and ignition?

I am thinking PCM. There is a check for the coolant temperature sensor that should read 5v coming off of the PCM and I checked this and there is no voltage. But, it could be a problem before this I also would think. I did not mess with the PCM at all, but in looking at the schematics this seems to connect all 3 of these things.

Will keep you posted. Thanks again for both of your help.

 

[Bedrck47]

did you disconnect any connectors on the drivers side near the firewall If so I would recheck them to see if any pins got bent or pushed out The C160 connector is for both the fuel pump circuit and instrument cluster

 

[Bedrck47]

Connector C160 Power for the power port also goes thru this connector

 

[Bedrck47]

When you finally resolve the problem, post a update as it may help others

 

[2FordsChris]

I will post an update as I found about 10 threads on this same issue, and only 2 with resolutions (missed connectors). Another one ended with "Look this up on U tube, very interesting" Unfortunately, I couldn't find anything on Youtube to answer my question either, just a much easier way to get at the heater core without unplugging everything and removing completely.

 

[2FordsChris]

did you disconnect and connectors on the drivers side near the firewall If so I would recheck them to see if any pins got bent or pushed out The C160 connector is for both the fuel pump circuit and instrument cluster

I did and have disconnected and reconnected to be sure of good connections, but did not look at the pins in detail. Thanks for the tip.