Some issues and solutions I found.

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AssaultSUV

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Here's some things that were going bad and the things I did to right them. I'm posting this to aid others that find similar issues and might find the solution to be similar.

Threw cylinder 2 and 4 misfire.
Lean.
Making a loud ass squeaking noise.
Weak.
Smelt like death. I was honestly suffocating people while idling LOL.
Cold air blowing.
Overheating.
Shaking (idle, 30mph and 50mph shake)

Alright so I went to do the spark plugs. Well cylinder 2 was pretty much full of gunk and not firing.

Changed all the spark plugs (spark plug #2 looked like someone dipped it in shit) and the ignition coil tubes. This returned the uumph, removed the squeaking sound (that I thought was a cat going bad) and the death fuel smell. Went back to beast mode.

Found a vacuum leak where the previous owner did not properly seat the air filter hose to the intake. A bottom portion was not on all the way and the previous owner tightened the clamp over it. Simply set it back on correctly and let a few heat cycles remold it. This eliminated the shake at idle and certain speeds. It was night and day, I never knew it could run so quiet...

Cold air? Simple matter of filling it up with coolant.

Well 2-3 days later, cold air again. Overflow tank is empty. Dafuq? Got a leak. Did this for quite some time and I couldn't locate the leak so I kept refilling with water to keep it cheap. Finally located the leak. Water crossover passenger side gasket. In the process of taking the easy way to remove the cross over bar I now need a new intake lol. There is a bolt that cannot really be removed on the passenger side, upside down, unless you remove the intake. Well I pretty much yanked that last bolt attached to the crossover through the plastic intake part. Anyways, the inner part that the gasket seals around had a piece broken off. If not for the broken screw piece portion, I would expoxy and shave it but I believe the seal will be compromised. I will be on the hunt for an intake.

And that's it so far! Will edit this as more problems arise...(hopefully not)

IMG_0738_zpsce4a3896.jpg
 
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AssaultSUV

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Could anyone snap a quick clear pic of their differential pressure feedback EGR connector thingy? The two hoses that run off the intake before the throttle body snake around them but I think I messed up on reattaching the bracket because it doesn't look right. The bracket with the two small hoses that fit next to each other. Truck runs kinda right but I am worried the hoses might pop off.
 
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AssaultSUV

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Alright so time to update. Air intake inatalled, truck is running ok.

Throws code P1504 idle air control circuit or whatever. Will do some research. May be a simple matter of unplug, clean and replug.
 

Bedrck47

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after reading your thread I am still trying to figure what year your expy is or did I miss something in all the posts other than it a 1st gen
 
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Bedrck47

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DTC
P1504 - Idle Air Control (IAC) Circuit Malfunction

Description
This DTC is set when the PCM detects an electrical load failure on the IAC output circuit.

Possible Causes
IAC circuit open
VPWR to IAC solenoid open
IAC circuit short to PWR
IAC circuit short to GND
Damaged IAC valve
Damaged PCM

Diagnostic Aides
The IAC solenoid resistance is from 6 to 13 ohms.
IAC valve stuck open
Vacuum leaks
Failed EVAP system
Damaged PCM
The IAC solenoid resistance is from 6 to 13 ohms
 
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AssaultSUV

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after reading your thread I am still trying to figure what year your expy is or did I miss something in all the posts other than it a 1st gen
It's a 2000. Poured in some seafoam in the fuel tank, filled tank halfway and drove around. Still had code P1504. Waited for motor to cool down before reaching back to the IAC and noticed it wasn't plugged in. LOL. Anyway the connector didnt snap into place, it's broken but friction should hold it on. Reinstalled and code hasn't come back.
Went to go get emissions done and printout said some of my components were 'not ready'. After some discussion with some autostore workers, it was hinted that clearing the codes recently will cause that to happen.

Other than that, truck idles around 600-710rpm, doesn't shake, is responsive and isn't overheating even on a sunny evening with the heater turned off and idling at the carwash. Just gotta get thru emissions.
 

Bedrck47

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when you clear codes you will normally get a P1000 which is drive cycle not complete

can take up to 50 miles of driving for the cycle to complete
 
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AssaultSUV

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you may try using a ty-wrap to hold the connector in place
I'll find some! Btw since you have an EB 5.4 also...


Would you mind taking a picture of your underdash fusebox?

And with that drive cycle, went for emissions and got p0301. Cylinder 1 misfire. Will start with switching the coil with another cylinder and checking the plug. There goes $15 for emissions and gas for the cycle.
 

Bedrck47

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do you have the owners manual if not you can download it from

owner.ford.com I assume you are looking for the fuse layout

you may want to replace the boot as they sometimes are the cause of a misfire and use dielectric grease on the boot wire
 
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