Spark plug questions/misfire

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1955moose

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I got a dumb question for any of the Ford corporate type mechanic/engineers out on the forum. Why would Ford put in a crazy 2 piece as they call it spark plug anyway? What are/were any benefits? Doesn't Ford still do research on how a new design holds up? And furthur, did anyone try to remove said spark plugs during say 50k or more driving time testing? If they had, and not sent that motor/sparkplugs to production, wouldn't they have caught the boner they did in the early stage? I guess I just think outside the box, and logically, maybe that among other things is my problem. I always think like an engineer, sans the pipe in my mouth!

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gixer2000

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I got a dumb question for any of the Ford corporate type mechanic/engineers out on the forum. Why would Ford put in a crazy 2 piece as they call it spark plug anyway? What are/were any benefits? Doesn't Ford still do research on how a new design holds up? And furthur, did anyone try to remove said spark plugs during say 50k or more driving time testing? If they had, and not sent that motor/sparkplugs to production, wouldn't they have caught the boner they did in the early stage? I guess I just think outside the box, and logically, maybe that among other things is my problem. I always think like an engineer, sans the pipe in my mouth!

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Unfortunately all manufacturers do this crap! They claim they do test these new designs but I'm willing to bet its just not long enough plus I really don't think they care once its off the lot. I feel like their outlook is more "get more of my cars on the road" vs lets make the most trouble free reliable car possible.
 
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Trainmaster

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If you recall, the earlier 5.4 L engine was plagued with a different spark plug problem -- it spit them out of the heads. The aluminum heads had three or four threads that tried to hold the steel plug. We remember how that worked out and it took some six years to develop this solution.

Ford just dared these new improved long-snouted plugs blow out. Oh no. They were in to stay. They were probably tested fairly well, but it's the combination of mileage, carbon buildup and carbon aging along with corrosion that makes these near-impossible to remove.

Another six or so years go by before Ford makes yet another improvement to solve that problem.

I believe most engineers do their work in good faith. They try their best to test their designs and to anticipate problems. Often they suffer from the "designers optimism" and underestimate the shortcomings of their work. Other times, the shortcomings are compromises dictated by economics. Sometimes the shortcomings just aren't apparent at testing or turn out to be more severe than expected. SImetimes they are known but ignored by an incompetent management.

Environments, materials and suppliers vary. These engines were designed to run on unleaded gasoline, later ethanol blends, with additional impurities were introduced into them. The engines work in sub-zero and torrid climates, and testing can't simulate every possible environment.

Then once a design is tested, modified, agreed on by hundreds of decision-makers from all works of corporate management, millions and often billions are invested in its tooling.

I'm sure the board-room crisis meeting is a regularly scheduled event. "Just how bad's the problem??" "... How many claims do we anticipate over the next three years?" "What will the warranty work cost us?" "What's the cost of retooling".

The job of designing, testing and manufacturing isn't an easy one. Correcting runaway shortcomings discovered late in the game is even harder.... Every engineer knows that drill too well.
 

drokmofo

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I was having the same issue w my 07 Limited. I did a transmission fluid and filter change 1st. Didn't really make a difference. I got the replacement plugs and the Lisle tool in case I broke any. Was really dreading if I broke 1. Took it very easy and deliberate when removing old plugs. Used a 1/2" drive breaker bar and torqued slowly off. None broke. Driver's side rear was not very tight. Maybe that was my misfire. After the plug change it has been running fine as far as that goes. Will do the COPs sometime soon. Now I need to replace radiator.
 
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Ps4acc88

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Update, got p0300 code, multiple misfire, so at least have a code now. Also, what should battery voltage be? Mine is 11.9v when key is turned to the on position(engine not running) and 12.9v when idling.

Misfire- I'm hoping the new plugs and cops fix it, I just replaced fuel pump last year so I doubt its fuel pump.

Possible low voltage- hope its battery, replaced the alternator last year
 

1955moose

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Battery voltage needs to be at 12.6 engine off, 13.8 to 15.2 running. 14.2-14.5 is the normal. With multiple misfires, you start with secondary ignition, IE, spark plugs, coil boots/ possible coils, and go from there. These motors are very susceptible to misfires, especially if coils get wet. The p300 code is a multiple cylinder jumpy misfire. Common things are weak fuel pump, egr malfunctioning, a vacuum leak, or an internal engine issue. You might want to do a physical compression test with gauge, when plugs are replaced/removed. Last thing you want to do is chase your tail, if your problems inside!

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theoldwizard1

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1st question) would you guys/gals agree that the spark plugs and coils might be the culprit? (No check engine light but I read many post where people said they had coil/plug problems with no check engine light.
It is highly likely !

"Better" scan tools can read "live" data and "pending" error codes. If you know how to use these features you can actually watch the misfire counter on each individual cylinder.

I'm betting the plugs were changed once already, if not they are overdue. Plugs are cheap on Amazon. Stick with GENUINE Motorcraft coils. These are NOT cheap, so knowing which cylinder(s) is the culprit is a good idea.

The "official" method of spark plug removal is a pain. Most professional mechanics do it on a hot engine and use an impact wrench. This method has had great success. Do you side, restart the car, bring it back up to temp and do the other side.
 

theoldwizard1

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Battery voltage needs to be at 12.6 engine off, 13.8 to 15.2 running. 14.2-14.5 is the normal.
Not on "modern" cars ! The voltages that the OP posted ARE ACCEPTABLE !

The ECM controls the voltage and it is kept low to prolong battery life and minimize the power lost to the alternator.
 

stilbo

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If there is a definite misfire your ecu will throw a code and your cel will light. At that point you should read the code and if it is indeed a cylinder/plug misfire the code will designate the specific cylinder/plug that is misfiring.
Beats replacement of everything except what’s bad.. and: Use Autolite Double Platinum plugs.
 

theoldwizard1

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If there is a definite misfire your ecu will throw a code and your cel will light.
NOT TRUE ! There is a specific criteria for turning on the CEL and it depends on other factors. Also, the criteria has changed (made more stringent) in later years.
 
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