Stop Leak for crossover pipe?

[Bolt snapper]

After reading a recent post on the dreaded crossover pipe leak (which I didn't want to hijack, thus this thread), I'm wondering if anyone has used K Seal or something similar with any success? Mine isn't leaking visible coolant, but just has a greasy film around the connection (particularly on the passenger side). I assume this will get worse as time goes on.

Am I wishful thinking again with the snake oil, or is this a viable preventative?

 

[1955moose]

Bolt snapper, their all temp fixes. The biggest difference is how you clean and prepare before adding any kind of glues or sealers. Problem is if you start sanding, or moving around that pipe, you might make it worse. Best advice, at this point, don't [emoji205] with it. Keep an eye on it, and if it gets bad enough, then pull the intake, and fix it.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Esat]

After reading a recent post on the dreaded crossover pipe leak (which I didn't want to hijack, thus this thread), I'm wondering if anyone has used K Seal or something similar with any success? Mine isn't leaking visible coolant, but just has a greasy film around the connection (particularly on the passenger side). I assume this will get worse as time goes on.

Am I wishful thinking again with the snake oil, or is this a viable preventative?

Try to look under the pipe and nipple with a camera or mirror, if you don't have any leaks then question lays on intake manifold gaskets. Right now mine is out of the place and what I see in the valley was oil not too much coolant. Now my question lays even though I don't have any coolant leak in the bypass tube, do I need to go ahead and change the o-rings in that nipple connection? While intake is out how can I test the new o-rings that I will put there? Desecions desecions.[emoji16]

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Bolt snapper]

Revisiting this after several weeks. I don't have a terrible leak, but at times I can see a bit of coolant in the valley between the heads.

This is the product I was asking about: https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST550...001QT9KO6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

They claim it's different than traditional 'stop leak' products, in that it won't clog heater cores. Do you think it would slow the seep from the plastic intake for a while and worth the try?

 

[Don Hall]

oops

 

[1955moose]

They claim! But are they going to pay the labor and parts when some mechanic is going to have to put in 2 heater cores, or a new radiator? Yeah right. Best you'd get is a refund on the can of stop leak. It gets pretty cold in Illinois in the winter! Don't chance it, just keep an extra bottle of Peak coolant premix handy. Maybe come spring your leak will get to the point where you pull it apart, pop in new intake, orings, etc. Never liked any stop leaks, couldn't afford a customer comeback. Their not so happy the second time back.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Bolt snapper]

Welllll, now the leak has advanced some. On a 300 mile drive, I had to add just under half a gallon of coolant. I can see coolant in the valley under the intake. At this point, it has not affected driveability (I'm hoping it isn't flooding the nearest spark plug well and soaking the COP/boot).

This obviously isn't the optimal time of the year for me to tie into this both financially and logistically. My latest question is: Assuming I'm not doing any damage to the COP - is a constantly-replenished pool of coolant in the valley going to do any damage if left unaddressed for a month or two (or three)? I'm ok with having to regularly top off the coolant (not thrilled with it, but ok). Does this leak (at the passenger side of the crossover) risk any serious damage to any other part of the engine?

 

[guspech750]

When I modified my coolant crossover pipe to fit under the snout of a supercharger on my Mercury Marauder. The pipe had a few pin hole leaks after re-welding it. I cleaned up those joints really good and just used JB Weld. Repainted the pipe and it never leaked for over 7 years until my car was totalled by a drunk driver.

Sent from my SM-T378V using Tapatalk

 

[Bolt snapper]

So this has me wondering. From what I remember from seeing posts or videos on this in the past, a gasket fails between the aluminum crossover and the plastic due to the plastic being unable to retain the gasket in place. The gasket moves out of place and the leak develops between the two pieces. Because there shouldn't be any real pressure, would it be possible to clean up the outside of the area and seal it with, as guspech750 suggests, JB Weld, or silicone, or....?

Thanks to the above posts, I'm decided against using the stop leak products, but I'd love to be able to buy a little time with this rather than have it undriveable through the Holidays.

 

[Esat]

So this has me wondering. From what I remember from seeing posts or videos on this in the past, a gasket fails between the aluminum crossover and the plastic due to the plastic being unable to retain the gasket in place. The gasket moves out of place and the leak develops between the two pieces. Because there shouldn't be any real pressure, would it be possible to clean up the outside of the area and seal it with, as guspech750 suggests, JB Weld, or silicone, or....?

Thanks to the above posts, I'm decided against using the stop leak products, but I'd love to be able to buy a little time with this rather than have it undriveable through the Holidays.

Unfortunately hot cold exchange and also intake manifold gaskets getting hard by time leave the area not only with coolant but oil leaks too. With mine I believe I did the right thing to replace intake manifold, water pump and in front of it fan clutch. I did get one good results from jb weld work in the years on a area like that (hot cold exchange occuring) and it was a crack on the plastic of a radiator.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Bolt snapper]

I'm in agreement that I need to do exactly as you suggest - replace intake, waterpump, and possibly the fan (anything else anyone can suggest while I've got it apart? Already done plugs and coils recently)

I'm just trying to prevent, temporarily, the flooding of the spark plug well, the serpentine belt, and any other external component that could be damaged by coolant. I need to get past the Holidays, if possible, and get my garage cleaned out to give myself room to work. I can't see the coolant fountaining out of the crossover like I've seen in videos (yet), it's just "wet" around the junction of the plastic and aluminum, and as I've said above, there's a puddle of coolant visible in the valley under the plastic intake.

 

[Esat]

I'm in agreement that I need to do exactly as you suggest - replace intake, waterpump, and possibly the fan (anything else anyone can suggest while I've got it apart? Already done plugs and coils recently)

I'm just trying to prevent, temporarily, the flooding of the spark plug well, the serpentine belt, and any other external component that could be damaged by coolant. I need to get past the Holidays, if possible, and get my garage cleaned out to give myself room to work. I can't see the coolant fountaining out of the crossover like I've seen in videos (yet), it's just "wet" around the junction of the plastic and aluminum, and as I've said above, there's a puddle of coolant visible in the valley under the plastic intake.

On mine #3 cylinder was the bad news bearer, misfire was happening. I also change knock sensor and really think about the coolant tube in the valley mine didn't have any leaks on the tube and didn't see any corrosion so I didn't extend my work on the tube ,I was very concerned though,even I went to stealership for at least o ring replacement of that tube, but the guy told me, o rings never a problem there only tube itself getting some pin holes if you don't have any thing like that you can leave it alone. Fan clutch is a must if you change the water pump because warranty tells it .

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

 

[1955moose]

Can you get into the intake valley with a small hose and metal pump. I have one that you draw back on handle, and it sucks up fluid. The hose I use is about 5/16 of an inch. Do that once a week to draw out coolant, that should keep you going for awhile.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk