Sub Woofer connections on a 2015 XLT?

[stilbo]

I love my 2015 XLT but I miss the sound system in my 2003 Eddie Bauer.
Specifically the sub woofer..
Does anyone know if there are connectors in the right rear HVAC enclosure that would tie into my factory 4.5” radio head?
I know where there are a few 2015-2017 salvage yard Limited Expeditions but I don’t want to gut the console, dash and rewire everything up there.
Thanks.

 

[JExpedition07]

You won’t get the Sony to sound quite as good as the old Audiophile system they used in the Eddie Bauers just to be up front. Even with the sub they don’t match the bass or mid tones of the older Audiophile system....you will notice an improvement though for sure. With that said I’m not sure on the connections but at least on the Audiophile system for 07-14 it’s also a different head unit with a bigger built in amp to power the woofer. There is also an extra harness to back of the radio. In that case you have to swap both at a minimum as well as a new harness. I want to say the wiring was not there for it on my old XLT (but that was a 2007 as well) because my current Eddie Bauer has an extra connector to the head. That could have changed since then. I’m sure someone has done some audio work on a 15-17 that will offer good advice here.

 

[Trainmaster]

As JExpedition said, the XLT's don't have the woofer wiring. You'll need to make a harness from the radio to the woofer with a line for power to a spare fuse. The OEMs also had a wire that turned on the woofer amp which was located in the rear, at least on the 07, 08, 09...

 

[stilbo]

Thanks Trainmaster.
You pretty much verified my suspicions...
Henry Ford probably wouldn’t have added an extra three wires to the loom either if it saved 27 cents (2015 US dollars) per vehicle.
Now I need to find out if there are any radio head outputs that can be used for a a Subaru-woofer.

 

[Trainmaster]

Seems to be two sets of harness on these cars. The XLTs get a stripped set. All the rest get the full set. Don't know if the later generation cars follow a similar path. Of course exceptions appear. If one part is unavailable at assembly, a superior one is substituted, so you can never be sure what a particular truck has installed until you look.

These people know all about OEM radios and their programming where needed, as the factory radios must be programmed to the specific equipment and truck configuration installed. They can help you select speakers, etc where the odd OEM stuff is involved:

https://www.infotainment.com/collections/all/2015-ford-expedition

 

[Aspen03]

A simple line output converter will allow you to use the existing radio output signal for a sub. You're going to need an amp however. You don't need much of one though if your goal is to just mimic a factory setup. Several of the smaller Class D amps will accept high level input and not need the converter, several also have signal sense turn on where you wouldnt need to string a 12v turn on line all the way from up front. Power may be a bit more of a challenge however. A small amp, say 200w won't require heavy gauge wire and should be easy to fish under the door sill.

 

[adamsdaddy]

@Aspen03 That was very useful information. I searched it on Youtube and watched a guy tie into his two back speakers. It didn't look overly complex and much simpler than accessing the head unit. I miss not having any bass in my XLT.

 

[Yupster Dog]

@Aspen03 That was very useful information. I searched it on Youtube and watched a guy tie into his two back speakers. It didn't look overly complex and much simpler than accessing the head unit. I miss not having any bass in my XLT.

I also have done the Line Out Converter with great results but do not buy anything under $100 for one as they sound like crap (you get what you pay for) I got one for $130 and had 2 channel bass out (that you can mono) and 2 channel normal out with a plugged remote you can run to the front to control your bass.

AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with Accubass and Subwoofer Control

https://www.expeditionforum.com/thr...eakers-in-2017-exp-with-6-speaker-sync.39000/

 

[Aspen03]

@Aspen03 That was very useful information. I searched it on Youtube and watched a guy tie into his two back speakers. It didn't look overly complex and much simpler than accessing the head unit. I miss not having any bass in my XLT.

Welcome. I used to be a 12v installer, had to get out due to back injury from an accident. Wasnt worth the $ to be in pain most days. That and a new "supervisor " I didn't agree with was the final straw.


The LC2i is an amazing piece of hardware. Audio Control makes a 300w amp that is TINY and basically has an LC2i built in. They make great stuff, lots of control and incredible sound quality. The amp also has a provision for remote level control too, a factory head unit won't do that.

It's the ACM 1.300 300W RMS into 2ohms and 175W @ 4. Throw anything in the 8-10" range of a Kicker Comp R, Alpine Type S or R. The JL Audio 8" W3 pairs up quite well to it and will really surprise a lot of people the volume you'll get out of it. 2 of them in an F150 sounds like you have a big 12 pounding under the seat. They won't dip quite as low, about 28hz but still impressive.

They also make it in a 2 and 4 channel version. The 4 channel is slated to go in our Navigator next month when I have some time. I'm waiting in Infinity to get some Kappas back in stock that I can order through work.

The truck in the link w the 6x8 type R's likely sounds amazing, worlds better than anything ford or Lincoln has done.

 

[1111ExpyEL1111]

Welcome. I used to be a 12v installer, had to get out due to back injury from an accident. Wasnt worth the $ to be in pain most days. That and a new "supervisor " I didn't agree with was the final straw.


The LC2i is an amazing piece of hardware. Audio Control makes a 300w amp that is TINY and basically has an LC2i built in. They make great stuff, lots of control and incredible sound quality. The amp also has a provision for remote level control too, a factory head unit won't do that.

It's the ACM 1.300 300W RMS into 2ohms and 175W @ 4. Throw anything in the 8-10" range of a Kicker Comp R, Alpine Type S or R. The JL Audio 8" W3 pairs up quite well to it and will really surprise a lot of people the volume you'll get out of it. 2 of them in an F150 sounds like you have a big 12 pounding under the seat. They won't dip quite as low, about 28hz but still impressive.

They also make it in a 2 and 4 channel version. The 4 channel is slated to go in our Navigator next month when I have some time. I'm waiting in Infinity to get some Kappas back in stock that I can order through work.

The truck in the link w the 6x8 type R's likely sounds amazing, worlds better than anything ford or Lincoln has done.

What? In English please? <just kidding!>

 

[stilbo]

I still haven’t done anything…
I popped $180 for a stand alone sub woofer and it has the inputs that can handle speaker outputs..
My biggest concern though is getting power back to it.
Not sure what the current draw would be but it has an integrated 25 amp fuse and came with the standard welding cable power wires..
I am so reluctant to hack through the firewall never mind trying to route these wires from the back to the firewall…
I’m okay with tapping into the rear door speakers but the aforementioned looks like a nightmare