Synthetic oil weight

[Big Brian]

no I am crushed

the person who's opinion I value the most told me I give bad information

I am going to go out and play in traffic

 

[jeff kushner]

Maybe if you didn't come across as such as an A/H, you wouldn't suffer so much?

Just a thought......

jeff

 

[chuck s]

An oil filter won't help cold engine oil flow. All known oils are too thick to properly lubricate when the engine is cold as on start up so a filter ain't gonna help. Multi-grade oils do a better job of it and there's no reason not to pick 0W-x especially in a synthetic. Most engines seem to have internal clearances best fitting 30-grade at operating temperatures and going to a higher number can possibly degrade lubrication as oil needs to move/flow to lubricate. Engines that run at higher than 100°C like air cooled motorcycles need a higher grade oil that doesn't thin out at those temps.

Blackstone Labs has been running 0W-20 in cars calling for 10W-30 for years and their analysis shows normal engine wear. They published a white paper on this last year.

Regarding synthetics: My wife's Subaru 3.6R engine recommends (but doesn't require) synthetic oil but the oil has to be changed at half the schedule if conventional/dino oil is used. But this is the specification of the idiot engineers who designed this engine and not guys on the internet who probably know better. BTW this is now the largest displacement engine in our "fleet" since the divestiture of the 5.4 Expedition last summer.

-- Chuck

 

[1955moose]

You know I've used fram oil filters for well over 45 years now, never had an issue. But to be fair fram was a different company before Allied bought it. And all the vehicles I used them in were tough motors, with no weird oiling conditions like 3 valve Ford. I had 5, 302 Fords, 2 Datsun z, and a miriad of customers cars. I even used them in a lot of Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki bikes I worked on back in the day. The only reason I use them on my Early expedition is because of the sticky/ grippy end. I've switched over to their ultra synthetic ones now, because of a killer price I got on 6 online. It's such a pain to get a filter wrench of any kind up in there, is why I use them. Hopefully my Green giant will last long enough to use em up!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[JExpedition07]

An oil filter won't help cold engine oil flow. All known oils are too thick to properly lubricate when the engine is cold as on start up so a filter ain't gonna help. Multi-grade oils do a better job of it and there's no reason not to pick 0W-x especially in a synthetic. Most engines seem to have internal clearances best fitting 30-grade at operating temperatures and going to a higher number can possibly degrade lubrication as oil needs to move/flow to lubricate. Engines that run at higher than 100°C like air cooled motorcycles need a higher grade oil that doesn't thin out at those temps.

Blackstone Labs has been running 0W-20 in cars calling for 10W-30 for years and their analysis shows normal engine wear. They published a white paper on this last year.

Regarding synthetics: My wife's Subaru 3.6R engine recommends (but doesn't require) synthetic oil but the oil has to be changed at half the schedule if conventional/dino oil is used. But this is the specification of the idiot engineers who designed this engine and not guys on the internet who probably know better. BTW this is now the largest displacement engine in our "fleet" since the divestiture of the 5.4 Expedition last summer.

-- Chuck

I wasn't necessarily talking the rate of flow but how fast the flow starts chuck. A good filter with a good drainback valve will supply oil quicker on a cold start resulting in reduced wear on the engine. Cheaper fram filters are notorious for letting motors start dry with their lack of a good anti drain back valve. Which is very bad for a modern engine. You are correct though they won't change the rate of flow when cold.