Synthetic oil weight

[Big Brian]

again I never said it would hurt the motor.

reading comprehension is not your strong point

 

[jeff kushner]

I would simply suggest to those who "don't believe"....educate yourself....it is truly amazing what we DON'T know about a particular subject...until you really become educated in it.

I believe that the Flat Earth Society is still around for those really uneducated but I'm hoping most who can read this, will have at least moved past the whole Flat vs Round thing?

If not, enjoy believing exactly as you chose to believe...I'm not going to try to change your mind....it's not up to me.....is it?

jeff

 

[07xln]

again I never said it would hurt the motor.

reading comprehension is not your strong point

The use of the English language is not your strong suit

Why stress to someone they need to get that oil out ASAP and get the right oil in there? You're implying something bad will happen if he doesn't use 5w and youre wrong. Nothing bad will happen. You don't have to come right out and say something directly for people to decipher what you're implying. If you didn't think him using a different weight oil was going to negatively affect something then you wouldn't have said anything

Definition of finicky. 1 : extremely or excessively particular, exacting, or meticulous in taste or standards.

 

[Big Brian]

boy oh boy

really man chill out. I stand by what I said

don't jump out a window over it

Once again I never said it would hurt his motor

nice copy/paste on the definition, very smart of you

 

[the bus]

IMO you are fine. The oil is a variable weight and with operating temps it will be the correct. Now if you used a non detergent straight weight 30 from the dollar store would be a different case. Check the oil level regularly and just do your next oil change at 5k. Relax!!. You got great oil in there!!.

 

[rollinstone]

Slightly OT, but regarding filters...would one of the more upgraded Fram filters, like the Extra Guard or Ultra Guard, work OK for supplying oil on cold starts?

 

[Big Brian]

I wish I could tell you but the internet bullies would scream at me

 

[EdWeg]

I have a 2007 Expedition XLT (at 162,000 and that's considered average; so, your's is low) with the same engine and have used the recommended 5w20 from day one without any problems, changing between 5-6k intervals. Mobil 1 has been recommended as being the best product overall, and hasn't let me down. Follow the manual, as they've worked all of this out long ago.

 

[JExpedition07]

Slightly OT, but regarding filters...would one of the more upgraded Fram filters, like the Extra Guard or Ultra Guard, work OK for supplying oil on cold starts?

The better fram filters are well.... better yes. They have silicone valves and better media in their synthetic filters. Internet bullies can come at me all day long I dish it out just as bad if not worse than what comes at me.

My advice is to avoid Fram ExtraGuard and ToughGuard.

 

[07xln]

I wish I could tell you but the internet bullies would scream at me

Only because you would give the guy bad information

 

[Big Brian]

no I am crushed

the person who's opinion I value the most told me I give bad information

I am going to go out and play in traffic

 

[jeff kushner]

Maybe if you didn't come across as such as an A/H, you wouldn't suffer so much?

Just a thought......

jeff

 

[chuck s]

An oil filter won't help cold engine oil flow. All known oils are too thick to properly lubricate when the engine is cold as on start up so a filter ain't gonna help. Multi-grade oils do a better job of it and there's no reason not to pick 0W-x especially in a synthetic. Most engines seem to have internal clearances best fitting 30-grade at operating temperatures and going to a higher number can possibly degrade lubrication as oil needs to move/flow to lubricate. Engines that run at higher than 100°C like air cooled motorcycles need a higher grade oil that doesn't thin out at those temps.

Blackstone Labs has been running 0W-20 in cars calling for 10W-30 for years and their analysis shows normal engine wear. They published a white paper on this last year.

Regarding synthetics: My wife's Subaru 3.6R engine recommends (but doesn't require) synthetic oil but the oil has to be changed at half the schedule if conventional/dino oil is used. But this is the specification of the idiot engineers who designed this engine and not guys on the internet who probably know better. BTW this is now the largest displacement engine in our "fleet" since the divestiture of the 5.4 Expedition last summer.

-- Chuck

 

[1955moose]

You know I've used fram oil filters for well over 45 years now, never had an issue. But to be fair fram was a different company before Allied bought it. And all the vehicles I used them in were tough motors, with no weird oiling conditions like 3 valve Ford. I had 5, 302 Fords, 2 Datsun z, and a miriad of customers cars. I even used them in a lot of Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki bikes I worked on back in the day. The only reason I use them on my Early expedition is because of the sticky/ grippy end. I've switched over to their ultra synthetic ones now, because of a killer price I got on 6 online. It's such a pain to get a filter wrench of any kind up in there, is why I use them. Hopefully my Green giant will last long enough to use em up!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[JExpedition07]

An oil filter won't help cold engine oil flow. All known oils are too thick to properly lubricate when the engine is cold as on start up so a filter ain't gonna help. Multi-grade oils do a better job of it and there's no reason not to pick 0W-x especially in a synthetic. Most engines seem to have internal clearances best fitting 30-grade at operating temperatures and going to a higher number can possibly degrade lubrication as oil needs to move/flow to lubricate. Engines that run at higher than 100°C like air cooled motorcycles need a higher grade oil that doesn't thin out at those temps.

Blackstone Labs has been running 0W-20 in cars calling for 10W-30 for years and their analysis shows normal engine wear. They published a white paper on this last year.

Regarding synthetics: My wife's Subaru 3.6R engine recommends (but doesn't require) synthetic oil but the oil has to be changed at half the schedule if conventional/dino oil is used. But this is the specification of the idiot engineers who designed this engine and not guys on the internet who probably know better. BTW this is now the largest displacement engine in our "fleet" since the divestiture of the 5.4 Expedition last summer.

-- Chuck

I wasn't necessarily talking the rate of flow but how fast the flow starts chuck. A good filter with a good drainback valve will supply oil quicker on a cold start resulting in reduced wear on the engine. Cheaper fram filters are notorious for letting motors start dry with their lack of a good anti drain back valve. Which is very bad for a modern engine. You are correct though they won't change the rate of flow when cold.