Too many issues to list.

[Bedrck47]

When was the t/stat last replaced I would suggest that you replace it with a motorcraft 195 deg t/stat

 

[STEELRAIN]

no clue when it was replaced or if it has beem. the guy i bought it from a yr ago said he did all this work on it and to date he did nothing on it but cause more problems. im just scratching the surface on the known issues in this post.

 

[Bedrck47]

Insufficient, Erratic or No Heat
A/C electronic blend door actuator motor.
Engine coolant.
GO to Pinpoint Test B .

Thermostat.
REFER to Section 303-03 .

Heater core.
GO to Heater Core Component Test.

The above was copied from the workshop manual

 

[Bedrck47]

Would suggest that you get a copy of the Ford Workshop Manual on DVD There are many test procedures that would be very helpful for you

 

[1955moose]

When you say no heat, are you referring to the blower motor not working? Or is working and just cool air coming out vents and heater/defrost. If your getting fan but no heat, you need to do like Stamp said and feel both hoses going into and out of heater core. If the fan doesn't blow, that's another story. You'll need to check power and ground from fuse block all the way to blower motor. Easy way to test blower motor is pull plug on motor, put direct 12v from jumper wires and battery, any battery, and a ground. Motor should spin. That way you can rule out blower motor. Keep us posted on results of your tests.


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[STEELRAIN]

Hoses from the fire wall don't get warm, nor do the main send return hoses from the radiator. Bad stat? Or worse?

 

[Bedrck47]

Did you replace the stat yet??

 

[STEELRAIN]

Nope. Gotta wait til after work.

 

[Bedrck47]

Replace the stat and then see if your gauge goes up to the halfway point and then check your hoses again Get a motorcraft 190 or 195 deg stat Don't get a cheap stat Although I have had good luck with a napa stat

Once you do the above report back with the results

 

[STEELRAIN]

Replaced the stat, still a no go on heat. Gauge goes just over a quarter of the way. Hoses feel warmer (not by much)

 

[stamp11127]

Did you bleed the cooling system?

How clean and what color is the coolant?

 

[1955moose]

Sounds like a plugged heater core. I'm not crazy about using them, but I have had success with some real strong cooling system flushes in the past. I think it was a powder one I used. Sorry can't remember name. You can try it, might work. Be sure to flush out afterwards, you don't want to leave in system too long


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[1955moose]

Another thing you might also want to check is the blend door, and blend door actuator. Make sure it's getting vaccum and it's not stuck. Very well possible on older vehicle.


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[98eb5.4]

my gauge range at operating temps shows 1/4 to 1/3 with tons of heat then & plenty prior, dunno the stat story but rad & heater core have been replace

 

[STEELRAIN]

Sorry it took a while to reply (holiday). I want to flush the radiator in just not 100% on "burping" the coolant. Use to doing it on a vehicle with a radiator cap, this does not.

 

[STEELRAIN]

Ok, just ran the truck for about an hour, heat never came on. When I stopped the truck I checked both radiator hoses, I could easily grab them hardly warm to the touch. Same thing with the heater core hoses. The Tstat is brand new 195 Tstat.

 

[1955moose]

Boy sure sounds like your coolants not circulating. If your hoses are not warm to the touch, you've got a blockage. First thing I would do is get a hand held temp guage, warm up SUV, aim at various spots on radiator. If you've got a blockage, their will be a much lower reading at that spot. If that checks out, pull both hoses from heater core, run a garden hose through one side and blast out any obstruction, I'd still run a strong radiator/ block cleaner through system. Your water pumps working or you would overheat, besides they usually leak when bad. My 2000 expy gauge runs in the middle when warm. I'm betting on some kind of blockage. Also you can back flush through one of the heater core hoses, with a Prestone flush kit. Where you able to crawl inside cab to see if heater control valve is working?


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[STEELRAIN]

I've got the dash torn 90% out. Where is the control valve? None of the auto places here have any good flush kits. Just the $3 prestone one.

 

[STEELRAIN]

Also, there seems to be zero pressure on the upper radiator hose. I can squeeze it shut by hand while it's running.

 

[1955moose]

That's a sign of no circulation. Whats weird is you should be running hot, not cold. It's an actuator, should be under dash, with a vacuum line to it. Usually vehicles that run too cold, have thermostat removed, but we know that's not your case. Theirs a video online that shows how to remove any air pockets, with a special funnel. Guys anybody else want to chime in on this one!


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