UPDATE: 03 Ford Expedition 5.4L won't accelerate

[zombiesweets21]

I have a 2003 expedition, Eddie Bauer. I get regular oil changes and had my tires done in 2015. I am a single mother of 5 and cannot afford to get new tires all the time. Anyway, 07/30/2017 my truck just stopped driving faster than 20MPH. I had my brother (mechanic) check it out for me.
These are the PO codes I had:
PO304
PO405
P1405
P0171/74
PO301
PO316
PO302
PO306

My brother changed the spark plugs and replaced my coil packs thinking this would solve the issue. His mother's truck (F150) had the same problem and replacing those parts solved the issue. But for me, it didn't do a thing.
The codes I have remaining now are:
P0174
PO300
PO301
PO302
PO316

UPDATE: so after all this, I got my MAF sensor cleaned and replaced my fuel filter. My truck went from not being able to accelerate over 20mph to going up to 35MPH. I got it diagnosed today and I have these two codes:
P0100
P0505

That’s it. The mechanic will be back tomorrow to test my idle control valve on his diagnostic computer. Any other input before then would be appreciated. As he was diagnosing it, while it was on and in park, it kept revving up by itself. There were a few times it sounded and felt like it was going to cut off but it didn’t. It’s never cut off on me. When you press on the gas it just feels like someone is tugging on my car going the opposite direction. I just need my truck fixed ASAP.

UPDATE 1/22/2018
I had a mechanic come and replace my MAF sensor and my idle air control valve with brand new parts. Now my truck won't even stay on for longer than 1 minute. It'll turn over then it'll shake and shut off. I replaced the battery with a brand new one. I know I need to replace all my fluids, and probably fill the tank. But I am not sure. Could it need a fuel pump? The mechanic (who was licensed BTW said I needed a few things done)
-Heater Control Valve replacement
-Brake system flush
-Change oil & filter
-Power steering fluid
-Transmission fluid
My question is, could these things have my car not staying on? Or is there something else? I am just tired of paying for this and that and not getting results. Thank you.

 

[BRIANGEE]

Does your local auto parts store have a fuel pressure tester for rent?

Also, do you know what the fuel pump sounds like? Turn the key on but don't crank. You should hear a high pitched sound for 2 seconds. That's the pump. Then start it and listen for that sound..might have to open the gas hatch and listen there. See if the sound starts changing pitch or if it dies out first then the truck dies...

Short of having a scan tool or fuel pressure test kit this is a simple test to help rule out fuel related issues.

You can also try spraying some carb cleaner or something in the intake...just don't hit the maf with any spray..and see if you can keep it going when it starts to die this way.

 

[JExpedition07]

I have a 2003 expedition, Eddie Bauer. I get regular oil changes and had my tires done in 2015. I am a single mother of 5 and cannot afford to get new tires all the time. Anyway, 07/30/2017 my truck just stopped driving faster than 20MPH. I had my brother (mechanic) check it out for me.
These are the PO codes I had:
PO304
PO405
P1405
P0171/74
PO301
PO316
PO302
PO306

My brother changed the spark plugs and replaced my coil packs thinking this would solve the issue. His mother's truck (F150) had the same problem and replacing those parts solved the issue. But for me, it didn't do a thing.
The codes I have remaining now are:
P0174
PO300
PO301
PO302
PO316

UPDATE: so after all this, I got my MAF sensor cleaned and replaced my fuel filter. My truck went from not being able to accelerate over 20mph to going up to 35MPH. I got it diagnosed today and I have these two codes:
P0100
P0505

That’s it. The mechanic will be back tomorrow to test my idle control valve on his diagnostic computer. Any other input before then would be appreciated. As he was diagnosing it, while it was on and in park, it kept revving up by itself. There were a few times it sounded and felt like it was going to cut off but it didn’t. It’s never cut off on me. When you press on the gas it just feels like someone is tugging on my car going the opposite direction. I just need my truck fixed ASAP.

UPDATE 1/22/2018
I had a mechanic come and replace my MAF sensor and my idle air control valve with brand new parts. Now my truck won't even stay on for longer than 1 minute. It'll turn over then it'll shake and shut off. I replaced the battery with a brand new one. I know I need to replace all my fluids, and probably fill the tank. But I am not sure. Could it need a fuel pump? The mechanic (who was licensed BTW said I needed a few things done)
-Heater Control Valve replacement
-Brake system flush
-Change oil & filter
-Power steering fluid
-Transmission fluid
My question is, could these things have my car not staying on? Or is there something else? I am just tired of paying for this and that and not getting results. Thank you.

In short no, those extras he mentioned have nothing to do with your problem. Do NOT let him sell you any of those services *for now* all you need fixed for now is your rough run condition anything else is a waste of money. Sounds like you may have a clogged catalytic converter. Your problem is either blocked exhaust or as mentioned above fuel related.

 

[JExpedition07]

You may also want to try cleaning your throttle body, that can cause surging and rough running idle conditions.

 

[StreetCreeper]

In short no, those extras he mentioned have nothing to do with your problem. Do NOT let him sell you any of those services *for now* all you need fixed for now is your rough run condition anything else is a waste of money. Sounds like you may have a clogged catalytic converter. Your problem is either blocked exhaust or as mentioned above fuel related.

My thoughts are the cat too. Had a Mazda Tribute lose power and acceleration. Had to trailer it home. I unbolted the cat and it ran like a champ.

I'm not a mechanic though so I probably shouldn't be trusted for advice.

 

[1955moose]

First of all get a new mechanic. Anyone that's pushing all the other maintenance items without fixing your driveability issue problem needs a big boot in the ass! You've got maf sensor code, which definitely can cause your issue, along with the idle control valve. He replaced parts, without diagnosis of compete vehicle. Prior to the later codes, you had cylinder lean codes, and other issues. First order of business is fuel pressure test, codes, then diagnosis of systems. Your guy just threw parts at the codes be found. Sadly it's a little more complex than that. I hope you find a more competent mechanic! Sometimes when you get multiple codes in excess like you have, the ecu computer is blown out. Good luck, keep us posted with your findings.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Tdh777]

Guy is an a$$ hat for suggesting fluid changes when the vehicle doesn’t run right. Get a new mechanic. Check the boot at both ends of the pcv valve hose. Look for cracks or degrading rubber. Mine did this and had all the same symptoms and a maf code. It’s simple and free to check. Also the boots are like 4$ if there is a bad one.

 

[Bedrck47]

I have a 2003 expedition, Eddie Bauer.

UPDATE 1/22/2018
I had a mechanic come and replace my MAF sensor and my idle air control valve with brand new parts. Now my truck won't even stay on for longer than 1 minute. It'll turn over then it'll shake and shut off. I replaced the battery with a brand new one. I know I need to replace all my fluids, and probably fill the tank. But I am not sure. Could it need a fuel pump? The mechanic (who was licensed BTW said I needed a few things done)
-Heater Control Valve replacement
-Brake system flush
-Change oil & filter
-Power steering fluid
-Transmission fluid
My question is, could these things have my car not staying on? Or is there something else? I am just tired of paying for this and that and not getting results. Thank you.

First, You state you know that you need to replace fluids.
Is this your suggestion or the mechanics suggestion.

Second, Since the MAF sensor and the IAC were changed I would go back and MAKE SURE that the electrical connectors are properly reconnected. It is not uncommon to either forget to reconnect or to not properly reconnect the connectors. Look at the connectors and make sure no pins were bent.

Third, none of the following should have any effect on the condition you are experienceeing

-Heater Control Valve replacement
-Brake system flush
-Change oil & filter
-Power steering fluid
-Transmission fluid

Again if this is something you are suggesting and needs done than have it done However if the mechanic is suggesting this and saying this is part of the problem then BEWARE if he is sampling suggestion that it is something that is for maintenance than have it done but only after the expy is fixed correctly

As was suggested Check Fuel Pressure Post the results

 

[zombiesweets21]

I said it needed fluids because it has been sitting there since July. But like I said, I don’t have any codes now. The truck just won’t stay on so I don’t even know if it accelerates or not. How do I check the fuel pressure? It’s never shut off before which is why I’m so confused. It just wouldn’t accelerate. I don’t know anything about cars, so any help would be appreciated. I’m learning as I go.

 

[Adieu]

Injectors OK? Measure the ohms, if they all match pull em, inspect the nozzles

 

[rjdelp7]

I looked up P0505. It is an idle air control fault and possible bad/loose connection. P0100 is a generic fault. Check your air cleaner housing and tube. Make sure its tight and no leaks. I agree, it is time to find a new shop. Your mechanic is out of his depth or worse, fleecing you. Nothing worse than a dishonest mechanic. My Mother got burned, for new license plate lamp sockets on her 2009 Lincoln MKZ. The shop failed her state inspection. They charged her $189. They said the old plastic ones were rusted out. I priced them at around $20 for the pair and 2 minutes to install. The car was still under the bumper to bumper warranty. She could of got them changed for free at the dealer, if they were bad.

 

[zombiesweets21]

I looked up P0505. It is an idle air control fault and possible bad/loose connection. P0100 is a generic fault. Check your air cleaner housing and tube. Make sure its tight and no leaks. I agree, it is time to find a new shop. Your mechanic is out of his depth or worse, fleecing you. Nothing worse than a dishonest mechanic. My Mother got burned, for new license plate lamp sockets on her 2009 Lincoln MKZ. The shop failed her state inspection. They charged her $189. They said the old plastic ones were rusted out. I priced them at around $20 for the pair and 2 minutes to install. The car was still under the bumper to bumper warranty. She could of got them changed for free at the dealer, if they were bad.

I replaced the MAF sensor and idle air control valve. The mechanic was from yourmechanic.com. He only replaced what I requested for him to replace (since the last mechanic that diagnosed my truck with a diagnostic computer said those two parts were the issue) how do I check fuel pressure? This is all so frustrating. If anyone is in Vegas and would like to check my truck out, let me know. I’m so tired of being without a car.

 

[BRIANGEE]

Did you do the 'listen' test I mentioned? You don't need any special equipment to do that except your ears.

If you have a fuel pressure tester all you do is hook it up to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. The test kit should come with an adapter to make it fit.

Just Google the process and there should be a bunch of videos out there that will help you with the process. It really is a simple test. You're looking for in the vicinity of 55 PSI or so.

Also I would ignore the comment about the fuel injectors for now. That would be at the bottom of my list right now.

 

[zombiesweets21]

Did you do the 'listen' test I mentioned? You don't need any special equipment to do that except your ears.

If you have a fuel pressure tester all you do is hook it up to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. The test kit should come with an adapter to make it fit.

Just Google the process and there should be a bunch of videos out there that will help you with the process. It really is a simple test. You're looking for in the vicinity of 55 PSI or so.

So when I start the car I need to hop out and open the gas hatch to listen for a high pitched sound?

 

[BRIANGEE]

first, just sit in the truck, windows down. Turn the key to the on position (don't start the vehicle). You will hear a distinct high pitch sounds for two seconds.

If you don't know what a fuel pump sounds like now you do.

Now start the vehicle and listen for that sound. It should stay constantly high pitched - not for two seconds anymore but all the time. You may not be able to hear it over the engine so if you can't distinguish the sounds you may have to get closer to the fuel pump - go to the gas hatch area, open the cap if need be and try to hear the pump and if the pitch changes just before the vehicle dies.

If the vehicle dies consistently after a minute or so this should be an easy and free test - if you hear the pump noise start to become erratic, change pitch or whatever then the vehicle dies that will ate least point you in the right direction. It doesn't mean the pump is bad necessarily but it does mean you're on the right track. Really you need a fuel pressure test kit... but this will work for now.

 

[rjdelp7]

first, just sit in the truck, windows down. Turn the key to the on position (don't start the vehicle). You will hear a distinct high pitch sounds for two seconds.

If you don't know what a fuel pump sounds like now you do.

Now start the vehicle and listen for that sound. It should stay constantly high pitched - not for two seconds anymore but all the time. You may not be able to hear it over the engine so if you can't distinguish the sounds you may have to get closer to the fuel pump - go to the gas hatch area, open the cap if need be and try to hear the pump and if the pitch changes just before the vehicle dies.

If the vehicle dies consistently after a minute or so this should be an easy and free test - if you hear the pump noise start to become erratic, change pitch or whatever then the vehicle dies that will ate least point you in the right direction. It doesn't mean the pump is bad necessarily but it does mean you're on the right track. Really you need a fuel pressure test kit... but this will work for now.

My 2000 Expedition makes no such noise. Check your electrical connections at your idle control valve.

 

[JExpedition07]

I’d still highly recommend cleaning up your throttle body. It’s easy to do and should be done in any fashion to see if it helps.

 

[johnboneske]

I agree with checking the cats, mine did that. It was TERRRIBLY slow/underpowered. I would never of known it either, I did coil pakcs/plugs, throttle body cleaning, etc. Never had a CEL light, but it was slow bad it couldnt get out of its own way. After doing it, what an amazing change!

 

[rjdelp7]

I agree with checking the cats, mine did that. It was TERRRIBLY slow/underpowered. I would never of known it either, I did coil pakcs/plugs, throttle body cleaning, etc. Never had a CEL light, but it was slow bad it couldnt get out of its own way. After doing it, what an amazing change!

She does not have a code P0420/p0430. That is code for a failing cat. Her codes are for IAC circuit, lean both banks, random misfires, and air/evap leak.

 

[BRIANGEE]

My 2000 Expedition makes no such noise. Check your electrical connections at your idle control valve.

Most vehicles have a two second prime. I would assume the 2000 does as well... regardless, hers is a 2003 and the 2003 does.