VIBRATION: Desperate: 2021 Expedition Platinum Max

[igorelik2020]

2 things I want to also mention, for whatever it is worth:

1. As I was cleaning my top engine MAP (Manifold Pressure Sensor) I noticed it is covered in oil. Researched it, and found many folks recommend oil catch can to be installed on the left side of the engine to catch the oil vapors from under the engine. Installed about 3 month ago and today was the first time I opened the can. My guess it works as it collects all this yack (see picture).

2. When I was replacing motor mounts (what a pain) as part of the disassembly I needed to remove INLET and OUTLET plastic and rubber hoses that lead to turbo on the right side (if facing the car) to get to right side motor mount. When I removed those tubes I noticed oil inside. Research it, same recommendation online, oil catch can was installed on this side of the engine. Checked it today - absolutely dry without any oil in it. Any thoughts are welcome.

 

[igorelik2020]

here are 2 cans (blue) on both sides

 

[CoolViper777]

Open loop is the mode the ECU meters fuel air mixture when the engine is cold. It is a predetermined map of F/A mixture for theoretically ideal combustion for the cold engine. However it ignores the MAF sensor and O2 sensors and makes no correction for those parameters. Within about 4 minutes the engine temperature rises to a set point, the ECU goes closed loop and that is when the MAF and 02 sensors start to indicate to the ECU to make short and long term fuel trim adjustments. If you have a bad sensor MAF or 02, then the driveability suffers while the ECU tries to make corrections wildly. If you have air leaks in manifold vacuum, induction plenum between MAF and throttle body, these can also cause problems. In an older vehicle hoses and plastic ducts can crack letting in air that the MAF has not metered. Same can happen on exhaust side. There is a very specific TSB for smoke testing and I am not certain every shop is testing every point of leakage. Plus when the engine vibrates, tiny cracks in those manifold intake hoses and plenums can open up. I am dealing with this on my 2001 right now. More leaks than a submarine with a screen door.

Hilarious.....more leaks than a sub with a screen door!

 

[JamaicaJoe]

Hilarious.....more leaks than a sub with a screen door!

So many hoses on these things. That is the planned obsolescence.

 

[JamaicaJoe]

The only other things that come to mind are the engine oil level. If it is too high, the crankshaft can dip into it and cause a vibration. And the other would be the torque converter; which is difficult to determine if it is causing the vibration while driving. I disconnected a torque converter on a car and pushed it back towards the transmission so I could run the engine to check for the vibration. It confirmed the engine was the cause. However, I wouldn’t recommend trying that unless you are really confident you can do something like that. And you can’t run the engine very long and it will rev much quicker than you might imagine.

The torque converter is an interesting thought. If the vehicle were struck in the rear while running at significant RPM, the torque convertor, spinning like a gyroscope, may have suddenly been distorted by twisting on its axis. This is all simply theory on my part and does not explain it happening suddenly, unless the metal fatigue has worsened the wobble. But yeah, I would take it to a reputable transmission specialist to have it checked. And change the rear main seal at same time if they find a bad TC.

 

[igorelik2020]

The torque converter is an interesting thought. If the vehicle were struck in the rear while running at significant RPM, the torque convertor, spinning like a gyroscope, may have suddenly been distorted by twisting on its axis. This is all simply theory on my part and does not explain it happening suddenly, unless the metal fatigue has worsened the wobble. But yeah, I would take it to a reputable transmission specialist to have it checked. And change the rear main seal at same time if they find a bad TC.

Thank you for your comment, much appreciated. Yes, we had that theory, but since the accident transmission was rebuild 2 times in a very reputable transmission shop. First time they rebuild my own transmission, meaning case is still mine but all guts were brand new including valve body and torgue converter, second time there was another transmission (from another vehicle, not mine) was also rebuild including brand new torgue converter, we kept my valve body. Any additional comments are welcome.

 

[byathread]

You see this thread? https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/vibration-cured.59806/

 

[wlk4938]

We had to replace both sets of injectors under an extended warranty due to miss fires and the seals leaking. With your idle vibration i noticed that our car had it as well. 2018 MAx Plat. New injectors have pretty much cured it, as it idles down to about 550 when its warm out.

A shop did ours, but i dont think its a huge job to take t hem out send them to be cleaned and balanced then put back in. Otherwise motorcraft from rockauto were like 400 bucks for all 12.

 

[joser1648]

Desperate here! And Need help ! 2021 Ford Expedition Platinum Max 4X4, purchased with 9k miles, car was great in all aspects, I always maintained it. Out of warranty now, about a year and a half ago developed 2 types of vibrations: at idle and at drive (can be related but unknown at this point.) Dealer is pushing me around while charging for every visit. Been at number of shops, followed many leads.

-idle vibration: must warm the engine until RPM drops to 600-ish, and there comes a very low profile vibration, but it is noticeable, I can feel it in my seat, pedals, floor, etc. Front and rear passengers feel it as well, mostly in the seat and floor. Dealer looked at tires, also suggested changing all 3 mounts (2 motor and 1 trans) with around 3K estimate. I did it myself with OEM mounts, plus tons of other things (listed below), no change.

-drive vibration: as soon as I start driving over 10 mph it feels like I am running on a low profile rumble strip, it stays on at all time and speed.

Here is the list of things that were done so far:
-No check engine
-Tires: Hankook Dynapro , all new tires and road force balanced
-4 rims checked - true
-wheel alignment - done
-Throttle body - clean
-Fuel trims - checked
-Spark plugs - new
-Ignition coils - new
-2 Oil catch cans - installed
-Air filter - new
-Smoke test - done
-Carbon clean - done
-PCV valve - new
-2 motor mounts and 1 trans mount - new
-2 Turbos - replaced
-4 CV axels - new
-Transmission - rebuild 2 times
-Shudder Stop Fluid for transmission - added
-Main drive shaft - fully rebuilt in custom shaft shop
-Rear Diff - new fluid
-Updated software at Ford Dealer
-Performed: reset misfire monitor neutral profile Via Ford scanner
-etc.

I drive a lot, cannot force myself to ignore it when it’s there, it gets to me, I cannot think of anything else while driving. Been hunting this for about a year now, love the truck and dont want to follow millions of suggestions to sell it. To me selling is just passing the problem onto someone else, so i am still trying, still nothing. Followed many leads by dealer and various mechanics. I am now at about 10K in parts and labor. Every lead I was on - I thought "this is it" but no. I still feel like I am very close to finding it, but need direction and possibly help from members here.
There is no stupid suggestion, any help or lead is greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.

Desperate here! And Need help ! 2021 Ford Expedition Platinum Max 4X4, purchased with 9k miles, car was great in all aspects, I always maintained it. Out of warranty now, about a year and a half ago developed 2 types of vibrations: at idle and at drive (can be related but unknown at this point.) Dealer is pushing me around while charging for every visit. Been at number of shops, followed many leads.

-idle vibration: must warm the engine until RPM drops to 600-ish, and there comes a very low profile vibration, but it is noticeable, I can feel it in my seat, pedals, floor, etc. Front and rear passengers feel it as well, mostly in the seat and floor. Dealer looked at tires, also suggested changing all 3 mounts (2 motor and 1 trans) with around 3K estimate. I did it myself with OEM mounts, plus tons of other things (listed below), no change.

-drive vibration: as soon as I start driving over 10 mph it feels like I am running on a low profile rumble strip, it stays on at all time and speed.

Here is the list of things that were done so far:
-No check engine
-Tires: Hankook Dynapro , all new tires and road force balanced
-4 rims checked - true
-wheel alignment - done
-Throttle body - clean
-Fuel trims - checked
-Spark plugs - new
-Ignition coils - new
-2 Oil catch cans - installed
-Air filter - new
-Smoke test - done
-Carbon clean - done
-PCV valve - new
-2 motor mounts and 1 trans mount - new
-2 Turbos - replaced
-4 CV axels - new
-Transmission - rebuild 2 times
-Shudder Stop Fluid for transmission - added
-Main drive shaft - fully rebuilt in custom shaft shop
-Rear Diff - new fluid
-Updated software at Ford Dealer
-Performed: reset misfire monitor neutral profile Via Ford scanner
-etc.

I drive a lot, cannot force myself to ignore it when it’s there, it gets to me, I cannot think of anything else while driving. Been hunting this for about a year now, love the truck and dont want to follow millions of suggestions to sell it. To me selling is just passing the problem onto someone else, so i am still trying, still nothing. Followed many leads by dealer and various mechanics. I am now at about 10K in parts and labor. Every lead I was on - I thought "this is it" but no. I still feel like I am very close to finding it, but need direction and possibly help from members here.
There is no stupid suggestion, any help or lead is greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.

 

[joser1648]

Desperate here! And Need help ! 2021 Ford Expedition Platinum Max 4X4, purchased with 9k miles, car was great in all aspects, I always maintained it. Out of warranty now, about a year and a half ago developed 2 types of vibrations: at idle and at drive (can be related but unknown at this point.) Dealer is pushing me around while charging for every visit. Been at number of shops, followed many leads.

-idle vibration: must warm the engine until RPM drops to 600-ish, and there comes a very low profile vibration, but it is noticeable, I can feel it in my seat, pedals, floor, etc. Front and rear passengers feel it as well, mostly in the seat and floor. Dealer looked at tires, also suggested changing all 3 mounts (2 motor and 1 trans) with around 3K estimate. I did it myself with OEM mounts, plus tons of other things (listed below), no change.

-drive vibration: as soon as I start driving over 10 mph it feels like I am running on a low profile rumble strip, it stays on at all time and speed.

Here is the list of things that were done so far:
-No check engine
-Tires: Hankook Dynapro , all new tires and road force balanced
-4 rims checked - true
-wheel alignment - done
-Throttle body - clean
-Fuel trims - checked
-Spark plugs - new
-Ignition coils - new
-2 Oil catch cans - installed
-Air filter - new
-Smoke test - done
-Carbon clean - done
-PCV valve - new
-2 motor mounts and 1 trans mount - new
-2 Turbos - replaced
-4 CV axels - new
-Transmission - rebuild 2 times
-Shudder Stop Fluid for transmission - added
-Main drive shaft - fully rebuilt in custom shaft shop
-Rear Diff - new fluid
-Updated software at Ford Dealer
-Performed: reset misfire monitor neutral profile Via Ford scanner
-etc.

I drive a lot, cannot force myself to ignore it when it’s there, it gets to me, I cannot think of anything else while driving. Been hunting this for about a year now, love the truck and dont want to follow millions of suggestions to sell it. To me selling is just passing the problem onto someone else, so i am still trying, still nothing. Followed many leads by dealer and various mechanics. I am now at about 10K in parts and labor. Every lead I was on - I thought "this is it" but no. I still feel like I am very close to finding it, but need direction and possibly help from members here.
There is no stupid suggestion, any help or lead is greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.

Kind of sounds like a harmonic balancer

 

[Fastcar]

Have you tried the following. Get it to speed and put the transmission in neutral,vibration? Get it to speed again and put the trans in neutral, shut the engine off, (be careful no power brakes no power anything). any vibration?