Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Yeah I've been spaying mine with Kroil for like 3 months every day so I'm sure that helped. The worst part of the job was the top starter bolt. That killed 3 hours trying to get that out. And yes the shock tower makes those middle studs toughYou did way better than me. After about 3 hours I gave up on one of the middle bolts on the bottom and put everything back together. If I remember correctly, part of the front suspension was keeping me from removing the stud.
Wow! Congratulations, that's a lot of work. I don't have the patience for that any more. I'd just rather pay somebody else to do it.So after about 8 hours I finally got my passenger manifold out. 2 of the rear top studs gave me no trouble, the rest... Were awful! But I'm happy to say they are all out and only 2 broke.
View attachment 21406
No Congradulations yet. I still gotta put it back together but I was stoked when I got every stud out so had to tell someone who cares..Wow! Congratulations, that's a lot of work. I don't have the patience for that any more. I'd just rather pay somebody else to do it.
But it is an achievement just to get out. Do you have to do the other side too?No Congradulations yet. I still gotta put it back together but I was stoked when I got every stud out so had to tell someone who cares..
Sent from my LG-G6 using Tapatalk
The other side doesn't leak but I will be doing it soonBut it is an achievement just to get out. Do you have to do the other side too?
Pull the starter and reach in with a 6 point 12mm combination wrench.once they are broken free reach a ratchet wrench in. The nuts were originally 13mm but since they rotted some were 1/2" and some were 12mm". For the front bottom which imo is the worst I used a 3" 3/8 extension, swivel and deep 6 point 12mm. I pushed the extension against the frame so it would keep the socket straight while I broke it free.What was your trick to getting the lower middle studs out (in addition to persistence)?
This is a family car and no real need for headers. I did think about it though because I do occasionally tow but it just wasn't in the cards at the moment due to not knowing what I'm up against for the drivers side. If I did headers I'd still be working on the drivers side.All that and no headers??
I also can't take credit for my tips and tricks. I've watched brians videos over and over. He provided a base on an f150 for how to get it done and I adapted that to the expedition.Pull the starter and reach in with a 6 point 12mm combination wrench.once they are broken free reach a ratchet wrench in. The nuts were originally 13mm but since they rotted some were 1/2" and some were 12mm". For the front bottom which imo is the worst I used a 3" 3/8 extension, swivel and deep 6 point 12mm. I pushed the extension against the frame so it would keep the socket straight while I broke it free.
Sent from my LG-G6 using Tapatalk
Your crazier than I am! I've pulled a few motors but these look like a horror show to get outWell congrats to you for doing it.
My passenger side is leaking too. But I'm yanking the motor and changing everything outside the truck.
CJ
Impact would have either sheared them off or pulled the nuts alone. The issue with that it you need the studs extracted to remove the manifold yet you need the manifold out to extract the studs... See where I'm going with this?.. Its best to take it slow and get the nut and stud together. You'll notice in my pic there is 1 nut off and that's the one I tried the impact onWould impact tools have been of any use on this or would it have just sheared them off?
I know they do that for almost all the ford diesels but never see it done in an f150 chassis. The diesels are impossible to work on with the engine in the truck. So they take the truck off the engine....I guess that's why a lot of the dealerships lift the body to work on the engines.