What a nightmare! Exhaust manifold swap on the 07

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gixer2000

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So after about 8 hours I finally got my passenger manifold out. 2 of the rear top studs gave me no trouble, the rest... Were awful! But I'm happy to say they are all out and only 2 broke.

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DualingIndys

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You did way better than me. After about 3 hours I gave up on one of the middle bolts on the bottom and put everything back together. If I remember correctly, part of the front suspension was keeping me from removing the stud.
 
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gixer2000

gixer2000

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You did way better than me. After about 3 hours I gave up on one of the middle bolts on the bottom and put everything back together. If I remember correctly, part of the front suspension was keeping me from removing the stud.
Yeah I've been spaying mine with Kroil for like 3 months every day so I'm sure that helped. The worst part of the job was the top starter bolt. That killed 3 hours trying to get that out. And yes the shock tower makes those middle studs tough

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ExpeditionAndy

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So after about 8 hours I finally got my passenger manifold out. 2 of the rear top studs gave me no trouble, the rest... Were awful! But I'm happy to say they are all out and only 2 broke.

View attachment 21406
Wow! Congratulations, that's a lot of work. I don't have the patience for that any more. I'd just rather pay somebody else to do it.
 
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gixer2000

gixer2000

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Wow! Congratulations, that's a lot of work. I don't have the patience for that any more. I'd just rather pay somebody else to do it.
No Congradulations yet. I still gotta put it back together but I was stoked when I got every stud out so had to tell someone who cares.. ;)

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gixer2000

gixer2000

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And it's done! Studs were a pain to get in but with a flexible extension it wasn't too bad and I did the same for getting the top starter bolt back in. b186a6dca72312c80a2f52c01815f540.jpg

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gixer2000

gixer2000

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What was your trick to getting the lower middle studs out (in addition to persistence)?
Pull the starter and reach in with a 6 point 12mm combination wrench.once they are broken free reach a ratchet wrench in. The nuts were originally 13mm but since they rotted some were 1/2" and some were 12mm". For the front bottom which imo is the worst I used a 3" 3/8 extension, swivel and deep 6 point 12mm. I pushed the extension against the frame so it would keep the socket straight while I broke it free.

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gixer2000

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All that and no headers??
This is a family car and no real need for headers. I did think about it though because I do occasionally tow but it just wasn't in the cards at the moment due to not knowing what I'm up against for the drivers side. If I did headers I'd still be working on the drivers side.

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gixer2000

gixer2000

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Pull the starter and reach in with a 6 point 12mm combination wrench.once they are broken free reach a ratchet wrench in. The nuts were originally 13mm but since they rotted some were 1/2" and some were 12mm". For the front bottom which imo is the worst I used a 3" 3/8 extension, swivel and deep 6 point 12mm. I pushed the extension against the frame so it would keep the socket straight while I broke it free.

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I also can't take credit for my tips and tricks. I've watched brians videos over and over. He provided a base on an f150 for how to get it done and I adapted that to the expedition.
Subscribe, You won't regret it
https://www.youtube.com/user/FordTechMakuloco

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08T1

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Well congrats to you for doing it.
My passenger side is leaking too. But I'm yanking the motor and changing everything outside the truck.

CJ
 
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gixer2000

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Well congrats to you for doing it.
My passenger side is leaking too. But I'm yanking the motor and changing everything outside the truck.

CJ
Your crazier than I am! I've pulled a few motors but these look like a horror show to get out

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gixer2000

gixer2000

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Would impact tools have been of any use on this or would it have just sheared them off?
Impact would have either sheared them off or pulled the nuts alone. The issue with that it you need the studs extracted to remove the manifold yet you need the manifold out to extract the studs... See where I'm going with this?.. Its best to take it slow and get the nut and stud together. You'll notice in my pic there is 1 nut off and that's the one I tried the impact on

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gixer2000

gixer2000

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I guess that's why a lot of the dealerships lift the body to work on the engines.
I know they do that for almost all the ford diesels but never see it done in an f150 chassis. The diesels are impossible to work on with the engine in the truck. So they take the truck off the engine....

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