What Have You Done to Your 4th Gen This Week?

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lefty hack

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RCI off-road skid plates... engine and transmission install today. I tried to get the second plate to set under the front but wasn’t able to. I had to leave. I’m getting back under to try something else.

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The F150 2009-2020 works as has been discussed here. Eco boost owners lose out on one drilled hole on each of the 2 Z brackets that mount the front plate. Use a speed clip per side in the hole forward of the inter cooler to mount the Z bracket. Other than Everything lines up perfectly.
 
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LokiWolf

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RCI off-road skid plates... engine and transmission install today. I tried to get the second plate to set under the front but wasn’t able to. I had to leave. I’m getting back under to try something else.

3e6c1482ccbc7228f743ed60e7ce6724.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk23f043d6561862d4cfaed209d854f26b.jpg

The F150 2009-2020 works as has been discussed here. Eco boost owners lose out on one drilled hole on each of the 2 Z brackets that mount the front plate. Use a speed clip per side in the hole forward of the inter cooler to mount the Z bracket. Other than Everything lines up perfectly.

Got a pic of what you had to add?


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lefty hack

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Got a pic of what you had to add?


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First timer issues... I didn’t have to add anything. During initial install of the front plate I had a question about which hole on the frame to use. I called RCI and Tim told me to mount the Z bracket between the inter cooler bracket and the frame using the inter cooler bolt. After all three plates were in I didn’t like where the bolt holding the front plate was hitting the hole (too close to the big opening on the plate). I removed the Z bracket and moved it to the more forward hole in the frame using speed clips. This fixed the alignment issue. It’s very simple now that I’ve seen how it all connects. RCI is easy to work with and skid plates are easy to install especially now that I know what I didn’t know.[emoji41]


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lefty hack

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I need help finding the “no mess” oil Change thread. I was reading it the other day and need the 2 products talked about in there. Thanks


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Deep8174

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Catch can installed. This one came with a breather filter but I took it off since it was whistling the entire time the engine was on. Don’t know why. Had to shave off some of the foam engine cover for hose clearance.
 

MattG

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Gave it a good detail on the exterior cleaned up all the winter crud.

Also discovered the driver side tail light has condensation after only 4k miles! Have to get to a local dealer and make a Warranty claim.
 

Lou Hamilton

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Gave it a good detail on the exterior cleaned up all the winter crud.

Also discovered the driver side tail light has condensation after only 4k miles! Have to get to a local dealer and make a Warranty claim.

Mine needs a good cleaning, as well.

Condensation is normal. Excessive moisture is not.

States it right in the owner’s manual.


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MxRacer965

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you have a few options. Fumoto, Stahlbus, and Valvomax are the 3 that I looked into. Fumoto I think is the most common, but I was leaning Stahlbus until I found valvomax. All stainless, veteran owned company, and looks like it would be a bit easier to get a small amount of oil if the need arose, but really the all stainless construction was one of the biggest factors for me.
 

MattG

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Mine needs a good cleaning, as well.

Condensation is normal. Excessive moisture is not.

States it right in the owner’s manual.


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I've never experienced condensation in a tail/head light with an OEM product; the aftermarket stuff, for sure.

Will keep an eye on it but a little leary of it.
 

5280tunage

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I've never experienced condensation in a tail/head light with an OEM product; the aftermarket stuff, for sure.

Will keep an eye on it but a little leary of it.

The condensation thing has been discussed in several threads on here. I agree that condensation is not okay. It will cause issues over time, say corrosion on metal/electrical parts, and heck, for me, lets say there is condensation in mine, and I decide to drive up to the mountains and it freezes, the ensuing cracks are also normal? Nope, those would be my fault and I'd likely have to pay $700+ for a new housing.
 

lv2drive

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this condensation thing is maddening to me... there’s no way it’s ok for any long term with electronic circuits plus a halogen reverse bulb & socket. just how long is that gonna go without corrosion?

i’m convinced it’s a pressure wash / car wash thing. i checked out how to remove them to change the halogen bulbs & will pop them off & try to give them some sun / heat evaporation.
 

DWs-TTEB

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Did you get a Wrench “See Manual” error light when you did the tire size mod via Forscan? I got a Wrench error light.

I did get the wrench. But using forscan to have the TCM (transmission control module) relearn the vehicle cleared that for me.

However, there is a threshold of how large (in MM) you can input for tire size where the wrench will stay on. A custom tune (ECM/TCM) would fix that.

Also play with the mm tire size there, I found that I only needed to add the size in MM that my new tires added (+12MM for mine) while "under the vehicle's load". My speedometer was spot on with Waze after.

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lefty hack

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R and R'd my 2018 Platinum puddle lights. New LED Drive brights. It's still daylight but wow. Great suggestion from the forum guys. ThanksIMG_1848.jpeg

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DWs-TTEB

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add the difference of the new tire to what is by default in FORScan. What’s there takes in account the weight of the vehicle squishing the tire down! Again why I only added .5” (12MM) to my tire height.

Also, you don’t need to input/mess with the HEX in FORScan. Just go into this and add the new +X MM there. Then go to TCM relearn & clear the DTCs. BAM your good!

If that still throws the wrench but you have accurate speedometer then a custom tune you will need!

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Pokes_06

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I did get the wrench. But using forscan to have the TCM (transmission control module) relearn the vehicle cleared that for me.

However, there is a threshold of how large (in MM) you can input for tire size where the wrench will stay on. A custom tune (ECM/TCM) would fix that.

Also play with the mm tire size there, I found that I only needed to add the size in MM that my new tires added (+12MM for mine) while "under the vehicle's load". My speedometer was spot on with Waze after.

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Thank you!
 
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