WHAT SHOULD I NKNOW?

[Sparty047]

Considering a 2011 Expedition Limited with 106K miles.......5.4L engine Rapid Spec 301A for $11,900 at the dealer that has serviced the vehicle since new.

Are there any issues of which I need to be aware? Is there any issues with changing out spark plugs, etc?

Really appreciate any advice. Thank you in advance. Peace/Out

 

[BigOleFordFan]

Well, there are some known issues with the 3rd gens, but the '011/5.4L models were pretty solid vehicles overall.

If you search the threads, you can find out the details about any particular issue, but a lot of them are about the power running boards & how much it cost to fix/replace them.....my local stealerships quoted me $2600, since they only sell them as complete installed sets with the boards, motors, brackets & control shafts.....but you can find replacement parts for good prices online & DYI it if you can swing a wrench

One other issue that seems to be somewhat common is with rust developing along the inside of the frame member that goes along the inside of the passenger section of the doors. It has been mentioned that it's from a bad design of the drains for the sunroof (if so equipped) where all the water is routed down along the body to that area but not diverted directly onto the ground... if it's caught early, it is a fairly easy DIY fix, if not then a more involved process of cutting out the bad parts & replacing them with new pieces would be necessary, or alternatively, capping off the outside area by welding/screwing/riveting on new panels over the existing area & then sealing & undercoating underneath will do the job also...

On the spark plugs, 100-150K is about when they typically start to go, but that will depend alot on the previous owner's driving & maintenance habits, and the quality of the gas used...mine now has ~87K on it and shows no signs of needing new plugs or coils at the moment. HOWEVER, if you want or feel the need to replace the plugs, you should consider doing the coils & boots while you're in there, since you have to remove/move them and several other things out of the way to get to the back 4 plugs....but don't attempt this unless you have the know-how & the proper tools....if not then get someone to do it for you who does....

And I would recommend getting copies of all the service records, so you will know exactly what has or has not been done to it and when...

Finally, I would try to wiggle that price down a bit, since I bought my '011 EL with only 67K in excellent condition for only a few $$ more....

 

[eddytheexpy]

Yeah as noted above I’d look out for rust considering you’re in Michigan.

The big one that scares a lot of people is the cam phasers packing it in. There’s LOTS of info on this. Long story short, drive it cold with the windows down and you shouldn’t hear any ticking at low speeds with a building/wall to reflect the sound back in. Drive it until it’s all up to operating temp and drive past the same wall with the windows down. This is where you’ll start hearing a tapping sound if they’re bad. Pretty much the opposite how you’d expect an exhaust leak to act.

My rig had it when I bought it but didn’t know any better at the time. I’ve since pulled the thing apart and did the timing job, cam phasers packing replacement and lash adjuster/roller follower replacement myself. It sounds scary but it’s not that bad if you’ve got a garage to work in.

I picked up my 2011 EL Limited 4x4 in August 2022 with 156k miles for $5800 through private sale. However, this thing spent its whole life in the southwest so I don’t know what rust is. Granted, I’ve done piles of work on it and if my accounting skillz serve me correctly I’m up to about $11000 between purchase price, parts, upgrades, tools and the one time I actually took it to the shop because I didn’t want to deal with replacing a cracked exhaust manifold. So if it’s truly clean and the ball joints, tie rods and rest of the suspension is in good shape, you’re probably looking at a reasonable price (assuming the maintenance records show it was maintained on time).

As always, you can ask to take it to an independent shop for a pre-sale inspection.

Good luck, hope it works out and you love the thing as much as I love mine!

 

[Trainmaster]

Check for rotten rocker panels. Horrible in salt country.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

- My rear struts had to be replaced multiple times by ~110k. I ultimately replaced them with Bilstein 4600s, which are still going at 217k.
- Plugs are a non-issue on the '11. All of my COPs are original. Inspect them and if the rubber is still pliable and they are functioning, there is zero need (and zero benefit) in replacing them.
- All 3 heater hoses needed to be replaced around 100k. I did the tstat and changed the coolant while I was at it.
- Water pump failed around 150k
- intake manifold gaskets were replaced at 188k due to leaking
- various blend doors (heat/AC) have failed. address those as they come
- sunroof failed; I keep it shut now and have for years
- rockers have rusted out
- the power running boards are crap. They will almost certainly fail if they haven't already. Dealers tend to dummy them up with a s**t ton of lube so they work short-term. It fixes nothing. You can replace the motors with CN motors obtained from eBay, etc. for several hundred each or you can replace with fixed running boards. I would not recommend replacing failed motors with OEM. They're way too expensive for how crappy they are.
- check the oil often. I have been burning and/or leaking oil pretty much since the start (purchased around 74k miles). I check the oil every 2 weeks if driving around town or after every trip of 150+ miles. Keeping her topped up has kept her going (again, 217k)

Overall, the truck has been decent to me. I haven't put a whole lot into it and it has only left me stranded twice. Once was a burned up fuel injector wire ($5 fix once I figured out what it was). Second time was a seized caliper (largely my fault, let brakes run too long past due).

 

[Trainmaster]

Some of these engines have problems with timing chain tensioners which eat up the timing chain guides. When you start the truck cold, they will rattle badly for a second or so. If they do, you'll need to do that job.

Also, like all Ford V-8s the exhaust manifold bolts can break and are a bear to replace. Listen for exhaust leaks on a cold engine. A leaking manifold on the right side also melts insulation in the transmission wiring harness that runs along the top of the manifold.

Just things to check... With 105K miles, you should be okay with these.