What's needed to add a second battery to the engine bay ??

[scoot0073]

I'm wanting to add a second battery to the engine bay/charging system.
Now I'm assuming that I would have to use 31 group batteries both Main and secondary .
Then connect them together in parallel - to - and + to + to maintain a 12 volt system.
Now would the stock alternator be able to maintain a full charge on both batteries or would I need to upgrade the alternator to a higher output ??

Thanks for any advice

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[stamp11127]

Why are you wanting to add another battery?

 

[1955moose]

My question too, are you putting in a competition stereo? Or is it for running a lot of additional equipment? Your stock alternator is usually a 110 amp unit. You can purchase ones up to 300 amp. If memory serves, you'll need a battery isolator, like ones run on camper pickups. You want to run a full size regular battery for your charging/ starting needs. I think its group 65, if yours is the same as my 2000. For your battery that your going to run with motor off, that needs to be a deep cycle battery. Depending on what your running off it, your amperage will vary. But you can go from 550 amp up to monster ones that mount in the back of SUV. Isolator kits come with instructions, how to wire up. Our guys here can probably help with more details, but need to know your intentions.


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[scoot0073]

Main use is longer lasting for stock radio system and lights for when we are camping and night fishing and or any additional accessories that I might use so that I don't have to keep the truck running as often.
But I have pondered on going with deep cycle batteries for main and secondary.
I was thinking of adding the second battery to the engine bay but if I do end up putting it in the back then I'm covered as I still have my 0 gauge amp wiring + & - cable's which should be enough.
I been doing some googling and found some ideas . I would think that my stock alternator would be able to maintain 2 batteries but that's where I'm not that knowable..haha


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[1955moose]

You don't want to use a deep cycle battery for your main battery. It's not designed to be run in a starting/ charging situation. I've seen customers that try to run one in the main system, and it swells up the casing, and fails premature, usually within a year. I don't know if you just redirect stock stereo and accessories over to the backup battery. Second batteries are used for camper use as a rule, where wiring for those items like fridge, stove and lighting are wired separately. Deep cycle batteries are designed to run down low on charge, then recharge back to the 12.6 volts. Automotive lead/ acid batteries are not. That's why they don't last long with any high power add on's like amplifiers, or any high current items.


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[stamp11127]

Here is a thought, calculate the amount of amp draw you need + some overhead then size the new battery to that.

This is overkill but check the capacity @25amps (3rd col).
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/8DAGM_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf

If you go that route it would help to switch all lights over to LED'S to reduce the current draw.

 

[1955moose]

161 pounds, that thing is a brute! I've used the absorbed glass mat batteries on Harley's and other bikes with very good results. I had a friend that had his original battery 7 years later, unheard of on a Harley. That Trojan battery should give you reserve and then some. I don't believe your stock alternator would be enough amperage to keep up charging both batteries though. You'd probably have to step up to one of the 200 amp or bigger ones available. As Stamp said, see if you or someone can calculate the draw your putting on system. Do you have any large stereo amps in your system? Add all the amperage draws that you'll be using while partying with friends/ family, add a little bumper to that, and you can figure out size of Alternator/ battery combo you'll need for your SUV. One last thing, be sure you run as many power and grounds direct to battery or frame. We have had so many forum members with items that didn't work, they traced most down from shops tapping into existing circuits for power/ ground. You don't need that headache after your install.


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[ExplorerTom]

change all your lights to LED.

Install a volt meter on a momentary switch, like this:
https://powerwerx.com/panel-mount-digital-volt-meter-blue?gclid=COH6xKLS1tECFYQAaQodNW8IUQ
I know volts aren't everything for a starting battery, but for short periods like this it should be ok.

Change your current battery to an AGM.

To do a second battery you need some fairly specialized wiring and controllers. At least the way I've seen them done. And if your engine bay is anything like my first gen engine bay, there's no room for a second battery.

 

[scoot0073]

OK I watched several YouTube videos on adding a second battery and I'm pretty sure that I could use 31 group batteries with 1000 CCA for my needs.
The pricing on Deep cycle batteries and the fact it's not recommend to use as main battery like mentioned above..
Plus I'm very familiar with theses 31 group batteries as I run 96 volts in my Lowrider and plus I already got them...Hahaha
And I know that they work fine as a Main battery and they do good .
I just want to double my run time
I jus gotta order a wiring kit that allows me in able and dis able the second battery via a toggle switch in the cab.
But again I'm still watching YouTube videos to see all the different reasons that people are doing this..
And the stereo system is staying stock.
Just adding LED lights to exterior


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[1955moose]

If your intentions are just to listen to the stock stereo with friends/ family, a strong main battery, will do fine. I do the same thing with my SUV on a regular basis. I've pulled the fuse from my running board lights, useless to me. You could also run a toggle switch for your inside lights, door, overhead. I believe their on one fuse. Then you could leave doors open, without light bulb drain. Are your group 31 batteries deep cycle or start/ charging type. The plates on a deep cycle battery are spread apart farther than a starting type. Because of that fact, they don't give you the quick burst you need to operate starter efficiently. They were designed for running items at a slower discharge rate. A glass mat battery like Tom recommended holds up the best in a single battery setup, but are pricey. I always keep a charged heavy duty jumper box with me, and start my SUV about once an hour. You will have to decide how involved you want to go with this. Did you wire up your low rider yourself? This job might be very labor intensive, but if your doing it, it's your labor, not paying some shop.


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[scoot0073]

Yes I wired up my 8 31 group batteries in a series to produce 96 volts to the front pump and the rear pumps connect to the 4 battery in the bank to produce 48 volts.
The interior lights not a issue when the doors/ hatch is open all I do is turn the dimmer switch all the way down until it clicks and it will turn off all the interior lights.
I know what I want it to do but the method to take I'm undecided.
But I'm wanting YouTube videos still to see which method will work best for my needs/wants.
And I definitely want to add a power inverter in the rear



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[1955moose]

The power inverter will definitely suck up juice. Just for the heck of it, I just tried my dimmer switch on my 2000, it doesn't turn off interior lights like yours, damn! Too much work to pull fuse every time you want to party.


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[scoot0073]

Yea mine is a 03 EB 4x4 5.4 but I'm definitely leaning towards the second battery being in the engine bay.
And jus run a power wire to the back along or inside the frame then drill a hole for it to come up inside the passenger rear cargo quarter and mount a bracket with 2 USB and 2 12v accessories sockets with 2 110v house sockets which the inverter will feed to charge my cordless drill batteries and maybe sometimes a box window fan when fishing in the heat of the summer months on the river banks here in the South.
The inverter I'd like to mount behind the passenger rear cargo quarter panel.
But a isolator switch is what I'm going with..
I'm basically converting it to a expedition type SUV. But is going to be my daily also.


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[scoot0073]

Now that I know what I want to do after watching 15 different YouTube videos.
I'm going to go look for kit or maybe just and isolator being as I already got some extra 0 gauge Rockford amp wiring..

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[1955moose]

My ex was from Atlanta, so I can relate to the fan. At 3:00 in the morning it's still in the 70's plus from May to October. One of our electrical genius's on this forum lives in your neck of the woods. Maybe with a little southern charm, you can get him to throw some of his electrical genius your way.


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[scoot0073]

Haha...

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[scoot0073]

My Sunday cruiser

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[lbv150]

What I did on my Expeditions was install a marine battery charger under the hood and use a Honda EU2000i to keep the battery charged and to run other loads. The genset is super quiet.

 

[knewblewkorvett]

You don't want to use a deep cycle battery for your main battery. It's not designed to be run in a starting/ charging situation. I've seen customers that try to run one in the main system, and it swells up the casing, and fails premature, usually within a year. I don't know if you just redirect stock stereo and accessories over to the backup battery. Second batteries are used for camper use as a rule, where wiring for those items like fridge, stove and lighting are wired separately. Deep cycle batteries are designed to run down low on charge, then recharge back to the 12.6 volts. Automotive lead/ acid batteries are not. That's why they don't last long with any high power add on's like amplifiers, or any high current items.

Not sure where you are getting your info from. Deep cycle batteries can be used as starting batttery.
I run a deep cycle (Optima yellow top) as my main and only battery in my 2000 Expedition and both of my Corvettes (98 and 02). I get an average of 7 plus years out of them. The reason I run a deep cycle is for the fact they can be run down and charged back up better than a normal car battery, just like you said. I have massive stereos in all my vehicles, hence the need for the deep cycle battery. I take my Corvettes to car shows and run strobes and LEDs all day and she'll still start up after the shows. With a normal car battery, it would never start after displaying the car all day with the strobes and LEDs on.
I'm thinking the post starter should try a yellow top. (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ery-group-34-78-750-cca-d34-78-950/16210015-P) It might fill his needs without the need for a second battery and associated wiring. The only downfall of using a yellow top battery is the higher cost but it would be cheaper than two batteries and wiring ( good quality 0-gauge wire is $$$).
If money is no object, two IDENTICAL batteries separated by a battery isolator would be best.

 

[1955moose]

I worked as store manager for Oreillys, and saw what happened to the majority of customers that tried what you did. Deep cycle batteries have plates that are spread apart more than a starting battery, and usually give less instant juice necessary for cranking over a car/ truck engine. The yellow top is the premium deep cycle for both optima as well as interstate. This battery system worked for you, but is not recommended by any of the battery/ auto manufacturers. Members ask for recommendations, and everyone has their opinion, but I stand by my 45 years experience with sales/ repairs of these products. Getting 7 years out of a deep cycle is amazing considering their rarely warranted more than 3. Good luck runs with you. Got Fridays lotto numbers? Moose.


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