2000 Eddie Bauer No Heat.......

[BuiltFordTough]

I have a OBDII Bluetooth device and a program on my smart phone that would cost you under $25.00 The program is called Toque pro and the OBDII Bluetooth device can be purchased on E-bay Check it out

Thanks man! I went to amazon and had to find one for an iphone 6, but I think I found one for $22.99. Definitely a better price! I would think this would work. But not sure what apps will work with this one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W8T51Y6?keywords=super%20obd%202%20bluetooth%20iphone&qid=1444937055&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

 

[BuiltFordTough]

And it looks like it is 19.99, but for apple, you have to get an app called Dash command which costs $9.99. So the total would be $30 going this route.

 

[Bedrck47]

Not familiar with apple but if it works like the toque pro and android phones you will be well pleased. The pic I sent was taken in Feb 2014 Its nice to keep the snapshots from the tablet serves as a good reference for future readings

 

[BuiltFordTough]

Not familiar with apple but if it works like the toque pro and android phones you will be well pleased. The pic I sent was taken in Feb 2014 Its nice to keep the snapshots from the tablet serves as a good reference for future readings

Amazon.com: Super Mini Car WIFI OBD 2 OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Foseal™ Scanner Adapter Check Engine Diagnostic Tool for iOS Apple iPhone 6 6 plus 5s 5c iPad Air Mini 4 3 iPod Touch & Andorid Samsung S5 S4 S3,Note 3 2 Google Nexus LG HTC One (Black): Auto


This is the one above that I just ordered. Will be here this weekend. Found a free app called OBD car doctor. May be other ones as well. But thanks again for pointing me in that direction. Should definitely help me to monitor the temps for cheap.

On another note, I am going to still check all the external hose temps today after I get her good and hot. Ill update with the findings.

Also, forgot to mention I also replaced the radiator/degas cap with a new Ford cap. When everyone else is up to operating temperature, and you crack that degas cap open, does it make a big air pressure "sphhhhhhhh" release noise like most vehicles do? Cause mine doesnt make virtually any noise whatsoever when I open that degas cap. Figured Id add this information as well incase this could help get to the problem.

 

[stamp11127]

Ya'll are over thinking the problem. You don't need a scan tool for this...

Hot going in but warm coming out. What does that tell you?

Either you have extremely cold air being warmed or the coolant flow is dropping off somewhere. This can come from: the water pump, a blockage prior to the heater core, the core itself or the restrictor in the one line. If you allow the hot water to sit in the core the heat will be transfered to the cabin resulting in warm water coming out. The hot water going in isn't being replaced fast enough.

Depending on how bad the block & system is scaled it may take multiple flushings/back flushings to get all the particles out (past experiences). Remember if the system had rust in it so did the rear heater. The entire system has to be cleaned, not just the engine.
If you remove some coolant and inspect the upper radiator hose (if it hasn't been changed) the level of crap in the interior of the hose will give you a clue to the systems condition.

 

[BuiltFordTough]

The problem is, the cores have been flushed twice. So its tough to say its partially clogged when the flow through the heater core seems to be great when using a hose. As fast as it goes in it comes out. I may need a recommendation on a good cleaning chemical that I can remove the hoses, fill the cores and let it sit for 10 min or so to try to break down whatever could be in there and flush again. So finding out exactly what the engine is seeing for coolant temp internally is important to know if its running cool or not. If all points to yes and the engine is getting to full temps, 195+, the it would seem that the cores would still be at fault.

So after I ran it hard yesterday, I was able to get the pressure noise when I released the degas cap. I took a bunch of measurements with a infrared thermometer. Heres the results. Let me know if they sound right to you.

Outside ambient temp 67 degrees, engine at full operating temp, heat turned to 90 degrees at full fan from the vents
-Upper radiator hose measured closest to the radiator 151 degrees
-Hose leading to the T that splits to the front and rear heater cores 151 degrees
-Hose leading to front heater core 145 degrees
-Hose leading to rear heater core measured under the hood 145 degrees
-Hose coming from front heater core 126 degrees
-Hose coming from rear heater core measured under the hood - lost the picture on my phone so i dont recall the exact measurement, but I want to say it was around 128-130 degrees

With the fan running at full speed blowing from the vents pulling 67 degree air temps across the core, is a 20 degree drop across the core too much of a drop? Granted that return hose for the front core is a little harder to get a good temp reading on. And also, does the exterior hose temps sound about right for readings?

Thank you again everyone for your responses!

 

[stamp11127]

I went and tested mine in the driveway since it is taking a break from the road. Ambient temp is 66, inlet heater hose read 146, outlet read 136 (heater not running), upper rad hose was 146. Mediocre heat, engine up to temp according to gauge in dash.

When I did the heater core swap a year ago the heat would chase you out of the cabin for the first hour or two. Then it started the mediocre heat state it is in now.
On mine there is a complete new cooling system - radiator, t-stat, both hoses, heater core and water pump. The only thing that is still original is the hose/pipe from the water pump to the back of the block and scale that didn't come out with the flush.

I'll see if I can find a flow diagram of the cooling system and post it.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/167728/fullsize/coolant-flow.jpg

This is from the service manual for erratic heat:
Insufficient, erratic, or no heat
Low engine coolant level.
Engine overheating.
Plugged or partially plugged heater core.
Temperature blend door binding/stuck.
A/C electric blend door actuator.

Next time I'm able to check the temps, I'll see what the cylinder head is reading.

 

[BuiltFordTough]

I went and tested mine in the driveway since it is taking a break from the road. Ambient temp is 66, inlet heater hose read 146, outlet read 136 (heater not running), upper rad hose was 146. Mediocre heat, engine up to temp according to gauge in dash.

When I did the heater core swap a year ago the heat would chase you out of the cabin for the first hour or two. Then it started the mediocre heat state it is in now.
On mine there is a complete new cooling system - radiator, t-stat, both hoses, heater core and water pump. The only thing that is still original is the hose/pipe from the water pump to the back of the block and scale that didn't come out with the flush.

I'll see if I can find a flow diagram of the cooling system and post it.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/167728/fullsize/coolant-flow.jpg

This is from the service manual for erratic heat:
Insufficient, erratic, or no heat
Low engine coolant level.
Engine overheating.
Plugged or partially plugged heater core.
Temperature blend door binding/stuck.
A/C electric blend door actuator.

Next time I'm able to check the temps, I'll see what the cylinder head is reading.

Thanks Stamp! I appreciate the feedback!

So I received my OBD 2 wifi scan tool yesterday and monitored the actual engine temps. Just cruising around town, I will consistently see 188-192. When its hits the 192, itll typically drop down to 188-190 until it gets back to 192 ish. So seems to me that my cooling system and thermostat are performing correctly. I did not beat on it at all so Im sure it would be a little warmer if i did. Ambient air temps were about mid 60s when I got these readings.

So are your thoughts the same as mine that I must still have a partially restricted heater core?

Also it mentions blend doors. When I change the temp from hot to cold, there definitely is movement in the doors. Temperature immediately changes as I change it. Is that about the only thing you can do to verify that they are working on these? Seems to me like they are fully operational, but you mentioned it in your troubleshooting so I dont want to overlook it.

 

[stamp11127]

I looked at my wife's Acura and had these readings:
Inlet - 157
Outlet - 123
Difference - 34
Engine up to temp, heater on high and chasing me out of the cabin.

Your readings:
Inlet - 151
Outlet - 145
Difference - 6
This tells us you are not getting a decent heat exchange from your core. There are multiple causes of this and not easy to eliminate.

Coolant Flow - first off I would make sure the hoses are connected correctly and not crossed. One of them has a restrictor in the T junction, I would expect it to be the outlet hose but not sure.
Outlet flow from the engine compared to the inlet flow back to the water pump.
Too high of coolant flow will also cause very little temp drop and reduced heating of the air being blown through the heater core.
You might consider crimping the outlet hose with a pair of vise grips to reduce the flow some and see what the result is.

Airflow - if there isn't enough air passing through the heater core you will end up with very little temp change between inlet and outlet hoses. This can be from an inoperative blend door actuator or super dirty heater core. One way to check would be to run the a/c and see if you can adjust the output temp.

Partially clogged core - the only way to tell would be to get temp readings. If you are going to that amount of trouble per Ford's method (dash removal), you might as well replace the core since you are that far into it.

 

[BuiltFordTough]

Your readings:
Inlet - 151
Outlet - 145
Difference - 6

Thanks again for the response stamp! However, the temps you posted were not the ones I mentioned. So according to your wifes accura, Im in a close ballpark.

-Inlet hose to the front heater core was 145
-Outlet hose from the front heater core 127 degrees (I just double checked the measurement last night)
-Inlet hose to the rear heater core measured under the hood 145 degrees
Outlet hose from the rear heater core measure under the hood 126 degrees

So seems like a 20 degree drop in coolant temp for both cores. Not 36 degrees though. Think that could still mean partially restricted cores then?