Feels like the truck is power braking while driving.

[Mr_Kostas]

Hello folks, me again. After the front passenger side CV joint was replaced it looks like something is dragging on the driver side. I feel a pulse like a warped rotor but nothing gets worse when the brake is applied. I haven't changed the brakes on this vehicle yet since buying it, the C-19 had me working from home a lot so the miles are very low (that I added). I plan to raise the wheel and start digging in but having an idea on the most common stuff would help. Is it common to have the brake pads jam (by rust or other)? Caliper jamming? Caliper jammed but not leaking? Land mines to watch for on dis-assembly - ie - wear plates breaking, bleeder screw snapping, etc. How common does wheel bearings bind without grinding? Differentials binding? Accidental 4 wheel drive engagement while the select switch is on 2wd? I definitely feel a drag like partially holding the brake on at least driving uphill on start up. Driving does have a pulse but it doesn't get worse when using the brake. Some guidance please.

Hello. I have a 03 . Issue on mine ended up being a bad flex brake hose. Did not look bad at all, but inside it developed an issue and was restricting fluid back to the reservoir, and not to the calipers. It acted almost like a one way valve and forced the caliper to be stuck intermittently especially after was driven for a while. This is what I used " Autozone

Duralast Brake Hose 71099"​

 

[Bob G]

Also had the same problem on my '03. It was a bad brake hose. When I removed them, they fell to the ground like a wet noodle.

 

[texasscot]

Update, got the caliper off. No other complications, turning the c-clamps were still a little hard. It felt like something was slowing down the fluid flow. Could be I'm just not used to this yet. Wheel without caliper turned around smoothly and it still is connected to the differential (shaft to transfer case is spinning). Still has meat on the pads, the inner one is the same amount of meat as well (picture).
Since the caliper put up a fight at the beginning I'm forced to throw out the idea this is just a return spring missing problem. Good brake fluid was used when I had the brake line re-placed to the rear. I did not bleed the front brakes (don't fix what ain't broke kind of thing). I'm possibly paying for that now although missing wear guides and inner return spring(s?) does help that line of thought. Any way I'm shopping for the best combination of parts. Screen shots of what I found so far. Any good or bad thoughts ???

To my knowledge there are no return springs in these calipers and I’ve never seen them on any I've worked on. Pad backing off from the rotor is accomplished by the partial distortion of the square section brake piston seals. come to think of it if they’re in bad shape then a rebuild would be in order as it may contribute to pads dragging. This is not hard at all but I wouldn’t recommend splitting the caliper as that potentially introduces some safety concerns and I don’t know why that would be necessary. I’ve rebuilt XJS and air cooled 911 calipers without subsequent “incident” and I’m the definition of a shade tree mechanic.

 

[Vincent Vega]

To my knowledge there are no return springs in these calipers and I’ve never seen them on any I've worked on. Pad backing off from the rotor is accomplished by the partial distortion of the square section brake piston seals. come to think of it if they’re in bad shape then a rebuild would be in order as it may contribute to pads dragging. This is not hard at all but I wouldn’t recommend splitting the caliper as that potentially introduces some safety concerns and I don’t know why that would be necessary. I’ve rebuilt XJS and air cooled 911 calipers without subsequent “incident” and I’m the definition of a shade tree mechanic.

@texasscot Yes, and rebuild kits are available from rock auto, partsgeek, and others. $5-10 for new seals per caliper, hard to beat that.

 

[Lee_H]

I ordered replacement brake hoses w banjo bolts and washers from our favorite "rock" store.
As far as the spring thing goes there is a spring attached to a post on the pad against the pistons. Not sure where the other end goes, I guess somewhere a video would show this. The outside anti-rattle spring is the easy one to see and I guess it doesn't do much returning. Anyway I have the Expedition staying in the driveway for the time being.

 

[texasscot]

I ordered replacement brake hoses w banjo bolts and washers from our favorite "rock" store.
As far as the spring thing goes there is a spring attached to a post on the pad against the pistons. Not sure where the other end goes, I guess somewhere a video would show this. The outside anti-rattle spring is the easy one to see and I guess it doesn't do much returning. Anyway I have the Expedition staying in the driveway for the time being.

I need to check out mine for these springs. I also need to check my brake lines as I’ve ignored those so far, in fact they are probably the only original parts of the truck lol.
Best of luck!

 

[Speed 330]

As far as replacing brake items in pairs this is my normal mode of operation, thanks for the reminder.

I was planning to retrack the calipers by slow c-clamp. Is there any one way springs to watch for?
I'm use to car free floating calipers that will back off with a little pressure.
Is this what I'm going to find or should I watch a particular video (you tube?) to get the details?

I'm hoping for a jammed pad that a set of new pads (both sides) replaced and clean up the calipers.

I'm finding even NAPA has only rebuilt calipers for these vehicles, same for Auto z, advanced, rock auto and amazon. I had no idea Pep Boys is now repair only (in NJ) - no parts.

I remember rebuilding drum brake cylinders on the wheels way back when, broke a lot of bleeder screws too (that is the start of my liking with anti seize stuff).

Any recommendations on brand if it comes to rebuilt only with steep core charges?

Ford still offers that brake caliper new you can find it not that expensive

 

[Hamfisted]

To my knowledge there are no return springs in these calipers and I’ve never seen them on any I've worked on. Pad backing off from the rotor is accomplished by the partial distortion of the square section brake piston seals. come to think of it if they’re in bad shape then a rebuild would be in order as it may contribute to pads dragging. This is not hard at all but I wouldn’t recommend splitting the caliper as that potentially introduces some safety concerns and I don’t know why that would be necessary. I’ve rebuilt XJS and air cooled 911 calipers without subsequent “incident” and I’m the definition of a shade tree mechanic.

There are most definitely return springs on the calipers. The problem is, so many repair shops leave them off when replacing pads, 'cause they can't figure out how they go back on. New return springs come in caliper hardware kits at Rock Auto if you find yourself needing to replace missing parts.


Expedition Disc Brake Hardware Kits at Rock Auto


The piston return springs are circled in blue below ....










.

 

[texasscot]

There are most definitely return springs on the calipers. The problem is, so many repair shops leave them off when replacing pads, 'cause they can't figure out how they go back on. New return springs come in caliper hardware kits at Rock Auto if you find yourself needing to replace missing parts.


Expedition Disc Brake Hardware Kits at Rock Auto


The piston return springs are circled in blue below ....

View attachment 73045








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Thanks Mr Hamfisted! I live and learn! I have done all my brakes but it was a while ago. I need to do an inspection. There really is nothing you do not know about these vehicles! Kudos.

 

[Lee_H]

Brake job is mostly done. I still have some sponginess on the brake pedal. I did take some pictures, the bright parts are the new ones. Most trouble is still with the connection to the anti-skid block. The new stainless brake line was put in from the kit I ordered when fixing the rear brake lines. It continues to wet (slight leak) on the block top. Tried to re-position and re-tighten at least a dozen times. It seems to have stopped for now. The other side does not have the new line installed. I will have to wait, the line snakes around the whole front engine compartment. I found a video showing how to place the return spring on the caliper side brake pad. So the springs are back at work. I noticed that the brake pads had some blue junk on them, I assumed it was some anti-noise stuff. The brand is bendix with a fleet brake pads being semi metallic. I don't like the feel of ceramic pads, it seems like I'm standing on them to stop all the time. The mentioning of lube while assembly. I mostly use anti-seiz as a part lub as well as the threaded parts. Next: I'll take some short trips to see if the brakes need to be "broken in" a bit before bleeding them again. I did replace the brake hoses if the pictures don't show that well.