Thinking of buying a 2003 Eddie Bauer, anything I should watch out for?

[CaptOchs]

1. My 2003 eats bearings. Drivers front replaced twice, other wheels have been replaced once each. That's the biggest PITA with the truck. Listen for wheel noise on your test drive. Usually the wheel sensor fails causing AdvanceTrac issues prior.
2. I had a parasitic power draw. I had a new battery drain nightly. Found the rear windshield wiper wasn't moving. The motor was trying to cycle the wiper but couldn't move it. Had to take it all apart and grease it.
3. The sensor to the passenger front door intermittently would show "door ajar." Lights would on and truck would start beeping while in motion. The sensor was $46 to replace, so I unplugged the sensor and put a jump wire in the plug to save money.
4. The differential started leaking. Was quoted $100, but it turned into $1000 because they couldn't get the plate off with cross members. They removed the axle. Issue was 1 week before camping trip so had it just get it fixed.
5. Rear brake lines went during differential service. Was part of the $1000 in repairs. Autozone sells this copper tubing for brake lines that is bendable. Much like copper tubing for a refrigerator's ice maker line. I won't have brake lines professionally done again because it is really easy to work with.
6. The exhaust was done. $700 in parts from tail pipe to manifold. Another $400 installation with a broken oxygen sensor.
7. Steering pump was cutting out for a few months. The problem "went away" for the most part. It occasionally resurfaces if turning a lot to the left and right.
8. Coils went. It chugged a lot around 55 mph or slowing down from highway speed. Autozone wanted $200 for 8. Amazon had a set of 8 for $35. They work just as fine. I have a large camper and a boat. No issues in the last year and a half.
9. Paint issues. I have a lot the flecked off the plastic covers on the bottom of the doors. My brother's 2003 EB had the same issue. He got his touched up. I have a few rust spots.
10. Wiper transmission went. Only driver's wiper was working. I replaced it with one out of a junk yard.

I think that's just about it. I've done normal stuff like plugs and fluids. Mine is a 2003 XLT with 152k. Despite the list of issues I've had so far, it still drives very nice and I plan on keeping it awhile longer.

 

[John Christopher]

Nice! Are those stock, then? I was wondering earlier if those had been on it since it was made, or if they had been added later on. How effective exactly are hood deflectors, anyway? Bugs aern't really a thing up here so I doubt it would be all that useful, but I'll keep it anyway, and I love those window overhangs because I can have the windows open in the rain

They were added later.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

1. My 2003 eats bearings. Drivers front replaced twice, other wheels have been replaced once each. That's the biggest PITA with the truck. Listen for wheel noise on your test drive. Usually the wheel sensor fails causing AdvanceTrac issues prior.
2. I had a parasitic power draw. I had a new battery drain nightly. Found the rear windshield wiper wasn't moving. The motor was trying to cycle the wiper but couldn't move it. Had to take it all apart and grease it.
3. The sensor to the passenger front door intermittently would show "door ajar." Lights would on and truck would start beeping while in motion. The sensor was $46 to replace, so I unplugged the sensor and put a jump wire in the plug to save money.
4. The differential started leaking. Was quoted $100, but it turned into $1000 because they couldn't get the plate off with cross members. They removed the axle. Issue was 1 week before camping trip so had it just get it fixed.
5. Rear brake lines went during differential service. Was part of the $1000 in repairs. Autozone sells this copper tubing for brake lines that is bendable. Much like copper tubing for a refrigerator's ice maker line. I won't have brake lines professionally done again because it is really easy to work with.
6. The exhaust was done. $700 in parts from tail pipe to manifold. Another $400 installation with a broken oxygen sensor.
7. Steering pump was cutting out for a few months. The problem "went away" for the most part. It occasionally resurfaces if turning a lot to the left and right.
8. Coils went. It chugged a lot around 55 mph or slowing down from highway speed. Autozone wanted $200 for 8. Amazon had a set of 8 for $35. They work just as fine. I have a large camper and a boat. No issues in the last year and a half.
9. Paint issues. I have a lot the flecked off the plastic covers on the bottom of the doors. My brother's 2003 EB had the same issue. He got his touched up. I have a few rust spots.
10. Wiper transmission went. Only driver's wiper was working. I replaced it with one out of a junk yard.

I think that's just about it. I've done normal stuff like plugs and fluids. Mine is a 2003 XLT with 152k. Despite the list of issues I've had so far, it still drives very nice and I plan on keeping it awhile longer.

Oh lord I killed the battery on the dealership expedition! D:

The rear wiper didn't work, I tried turning it on a few times, and the next time I went to test drive it, it was dead! (which means I have yet to actually test drive the darn thing) Oooh boy... it's one of the things I told them to fix though, so they should uh, cover it.

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Anyway, about the other stuff, this is useful to know! I'll keep an eye on all of those things... I live out here in salty, salty maryland, do you guys have any important rust-related advice for me next winter? As of now, I just try to take my car to a carwash at least once a month.

 

[Big Brian]

I would be all over that white one in the link provided

 

[1955moose]

Prince, I know you like that Suv. But with all those issues, dead battery, switches not working, any Dealer or used lot offering a vehicle with multiple issues, and not repairing them before putting it up for sale is a red flag to me. I'd really keep looking for a better example. You could always buy a $500.00 clunker to give you wheels in the meantime , if you need wheels for now. They make over 200,000 expeditions each year, so their not rare!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Prince_Polaris]

Prince, I know you like that Suv. But with all those issues, dead battery, switches not working, any Dealer or used lot offering a vehicle with multiple issues, and not repairing them before putting it up for sale is a red flag to me. I'd really keep looking for a better example. You could always buy a $500.00 clunker to give you wheels in the meantime , if you need wheels for now. They make over 200,000 expeditions each year, so their not rare!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

Well, according to CaptOchs, the rear wiper is what killed the battery. And the only other problems were an intermittent control knob for the power drivers' seat and a very intermittent control knob for the mirrors. I've mostly been fretting about potential problems this whole time... they had the expedition maryland inspected and it passed, which is something mine didn't manage to do when I got it >_<


And, yet another question.... my explorer came with a remote that has a lock, unlock, alarm, and rear hatch button, however the rear hatch button didn't do anything so I replaced it with two off of ebay that just have lock/unlock/alarm. Supposedly, the blue rear hatch button does do something on the expedition, so should I keep the four-button remote and leave the three-button ones with my old explorer?

Edit: I just took apart the three-button remotes and the motherboards in them have five switches! They must be able to work on either or, depending on the case they have.

 

[1955moose]

You I/T guys love tinkering, well at least your not like the pipe smoking engineer, always wants to micrometer everything!

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[JExpedition07]

I agree on the price as it’s an 03 try to get it down to 4 grand. Doesn’t mean it’s not a good truck but it’s not worth that much. Use the wiper to your advantage and small issues to your advantage and beat him up on price. Realize you are in control at any auto dealer not them and if they don’t play by your rules you walk. Rule 1 here is do NOT feel guilty about your trade in, they know it’s a 98 explorer and it’s potential problems. That being said get every dollar you can for it and knock the expy down as much as you can. Never feel guilty it’s strictly business and you want the best bang for your buck.

 

[JExpedition07]

If you really like the truck and can verify it’s in sound mechanical condition walk in with a cashiers check for $3,500-4 and tell them to take it or leave it. You can always sell your 98 separately, or if you want it traded in lowball them even more.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

You I/T guys love tinkering, well at least your not like the pipe smoking engineer, always wants to micrometer everything!
Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

Yes! Boy, I'll spend hours hunting down old forum posts, trying all kinds of weird stuff, and who knows what else to fix even the smallest of problems on computers, and I suppose it transfers to my cars, except fixing every little thing on a vehicle is a bit harder... for example, the wipers on my explorer? the passenger one is loose, so if the windsheild is dry, it won't go down all the way. It's barely a problem in any way, yet boy does it bother me.

I agree on the price as it’s an 03 try to get it down to 4 grand. Doesn’t mean it’s not a good truck but it’s not worth that much. Use the wiper to your advantage and small issues to your advantage and beat him up on price. Realize you are in control at any auto dealer not them and if they don’t play by your rules you walk. Rule 1 here is do NOT feel guilty about your trade in, they will know why they are getting into and get the most you can for it.

Well, I'm not sure, for a private buyer, that might be right, but Kellybluebook (I think I posted a screenshot) says that the price they're asking is smack dab in the middle of what's recommended. I mean, I've certainly suggested we try to talk them down!

I agree on the price as it’s an 03 try to get it down to 4 grand. Doesn’t mean it’s not a good truck but it’s not worth that much. Use the wiper to your advantage and small issues to your advantage and beat him up on price. Realize you are in control at any auto dealer not them and if they don’t play by your rules you walk. Rule 1 here is do NOT feel guilty about your trade in, they know it’s a 98 explorer and it’s potential problems. That being said get every dollar you can for it and knock the expy down as much as you can. Never feel guilty it’s strictly business and you want the best bang for your buck.

Yeah, that's why I myself couldn't do it, I just... the whole Aspergers, ADHD, so on, I don't have the... finesse? Yeah, basically, I couldn't do that, I'm relying on my more-experienced family to do it for me, it's hard to explain but I guess I'm too nice, I'd feel bad for asking them to lower it? Or maybe I'm just too anxious, I have no idea.

Man, I hope I find ADHD meds that actually help sooner rather than later!

 

[Prince_Polaris]

If you really like the truck and can verify it’s in sound mechanical condition walk in with a cashiers check for $3,500-4 and tell them to take it or leave it. You can always sell your 98 separately, or if you want it traded in lowball them even more.

Well, problem is, I'm not the one with the money- $2,000 of it is mine, but my trade-in and my family's supporting the rest, so I'd have to talk to them about it again, I think I'll certainly suggest this though.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

And, yet another question.... my explorer came with a remote that has a lock, unlock, alarm, and rear hatch button, however the rear hatch button didn't do anything so I replaced it with two off of ebay that just have lock/unlock/alarm. Supposedly, the blue rear hatch button does do something on the expedition, so should I keep the four-button remote and leave the three-button ones with my old explorer?

Edit: I just took apart the three-button remotes and the motherboards in them have five switches! They must be able to work on either or, depending on the case they have.

Oh, and I'm still wondering about the remotes, bing isn't giving me much.

 

[autoarcheologist]

Oh, and I'm still wondering about the remotes, bing isn't giving me much.

Here's my Lincoln remote. The extra button on yours might be to pop the glass, but if the rear wiper doesn't work the hatch wiring might be broken. That's not a fun or cheap fix.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

 

[Prince_Polaris]

Here's my Lincoln remote. -snip- The extra button on yours might be to pop the glass, but if the rear wiper doesn't work the hatch wiring might be broken. That's not a fun or cheap fix.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Well, here's the ones I have! I hadn't messed with the hatch very much, but the windsheild washer fluid pump in the rear does work, when I was messing with the wiper I poured quite a lot of it down the back of the car, heheh, does that help in determining if the hatch's wiring is okay?

 

[CaptOchs]

Oh lord I killed the battery on the dealership expedition! D:

The rear wiper didn't work, I tried turning it on a few times, and the next time I went to test drive it, it was dead! (which means I have yet to actually test drive the darn thing) Oooh boy... it's one of the things I told them to fix though, so they should uh, cover it.

----------

Anyway, about the other stuff, this is useful to know! I'll keep an eye on all of those things... I live out here in salty, salty maryland, do you guys have any important rust-related advice for me next winter? As of now, I just try to take my car to a carwash at least once a month.

I bet its the same issue I had. I went to unlock the car but hit the blue rear glass button. So I lifted it up and the motor cycled. I thought it was odd, so I tried to move the wiper while the glass was still up (so it wasn't engaged to the motor.) It was very hard to move. I had to take it all apart and put some axle grease in the shaft. It wasn't too hard to do. BTW: I live in Western NY. It's very salty here too in winter. It's why many of my issues are corrosion-related.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

I bet its the same issue I had. I went to unlock the car but hit the blue rear glass button. So I lifted it up and the motor cycled. I thought it was odd, so I tried to move the wiper while the glass was still up (so it wasn't engaged to the motor.) It was very hard to move. I had to take it all apart and put some axle grease in the shaft. It wasn't too hard to do. BTW: I live in Western NY. It's very salty here too in winter. It's why many of my issues are corrosion-related.

So that blue rear glass button actually does something on the expedition! I think I'll keep that remote then, and program it to the expy, and give away the two others along with the keys. Would silicone lube work on the wiper? I have a can of that stuff to lube windows... and we have WD-40 in the house somewhere too.

Heh, I just feel kinda bad for killing the poor dealership's expedition, but hey now I can say "fix that wiper or I ain't buying it, I need the battery to not die overnight all the time"

 

[Hamfisted]

Here's a pic of a factory '03 Expy EB key FOB: Notice the rear window blue button has a SUV-like vehicle on it ....
The battery can be killed if the rear wiper motor is bad or too weak (or wiper shaft is seized....) to "park" the wiper. It will continue to draw power until it reaches the "park" position. The washer fluid to the rear window is supplied by the same pump motor that supplies the front windshield. So all you are confirming is that the rear washer electrical circuit is functioning (along with the single washer pump...). Meaning, the rear wiper/washer circuitry is functioning correctly. The rear wiper motor can be dorked up, but at least the circuitry is intact. To keep from killing the battery you would need to pull the rear wiper fuse, until you can replace the rear wiper motor or latch/wiper shaft assembly.


https://www.amazon.com/Ford-6L1z17c426a-Hatch-Glass-Striker/dp/B009JMCXE6#customerReviews

 

[CaptOchs]

So that blue rear glass button actually does something on the expedition! I think I'll keep that remote then, and program it to the expy, and give away the two others along with the keys. Would silicone lube work on the wiper? I have a can of that stuff to lube windows... and we have WD-40 in the house somewhere too.

Heh, I just feel kinda bad for killing the poor dealership's expedition, but hey now I can say "fix that wiper or I ain't buying it, I need the battery to not die overnight all the time"

It's possible. However, if you're going to go through all that trouble you may as well get a good lubricant that won't dry out. I seem to remember having to pop the panels off just to get at it. I had grease handy for my trailer hubs and that worked quite well. I check it every now and then.

For all you know someone traded it in because of the parasitic draw and didn't want to spend potentially hundreds in tracing it down. Lucky for you, it seems to be a known issue. As far as the dealership goes, I'd offer to buy it with the problem if they take a few hundred off. Maybe they might drop the price if they didn't have to deal with it. I wouldn't tell them you know how to fix it.

 

[CaptOchs]

I found the YouTube video. I didn't have to pull panels. I did have two remove a part that was on the rear windshield. It was a bit scary because this part is mounted to the glass. Once it was out, I cleaned it up and disassembled it. Put the axle grease in the tube and put it all back together.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

It's possible. However, if you're going to go through all that trouble you may as well get a good lubricant that won't dry out. I seem to remember having to pop the panels off just to get at it. I had grease handy for my trailer hubs and that worked quite well. I check it every now and then.

For all you know someone traded it in because of the parasitic draw and didn't want to spend potentially hundreds in tracing it down. Lucky for you, it seems to be a known issue. As far as the dealership goes, I'd offer to buy it with the problem if they take a few hundred off. Maybe they might drop the price if they didn't have to deal with it. I wouldn't tell them you know how to fix it.

Man, that sounds amazing! I once got a bike when I was a kid, because, get this, the chain had fallen off of the gears. That was the only reason! That bike lasted me for years, and if the chain ever slipped off, all I needed was a stick and I could fix it myself!

I found the YouTube video. I didn't have to pull panels. I did have two remove a part that was on the rear windshield. It was a bit scary because this part is mounted to the glass. Once it was out, I cleaned it up and disassembled it. Put the axle grease in the tube and put it all back together.

Looks easy enough! Youtube videos on how to repair stuff are one of the best reasons to visit the site