gixer2000
Retrofit or Bust
Fyi that "sticky tape stuff" is cork tape. Any HVAC supply house will have but not sure about auto part stores
a/c in a different vehicle
- Thread starter powerboatr
- Start date
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stamp11127
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What is so bad about getting to the compressor? Move the inlet pipe out of the way, drop the serp and it looks like it is "right there".
Is that "Cummins Red"?
Is that "Cummins Red"?
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powerboatr
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yes red cummings, for some reason the rv engines get the full treatment ???
and yes moving the inlet pipe would make it easy...the problem is getting my arms up there high enough , not to mention my slim ass, wedged between the dpf and frame...i just cant get that small. its tight , then i have no movement of my arms ...i may drop the panel inside and maybe slide down over the valve cover.. I have to mull it a bit.
but i did manage to spin it over freely,
have everything back together, now waiting on a vac pump. Orieeles had theirs rented out...might be making a 60 mile trip to get one at harbor freight or northern tool
and yes moving the inlet pipe would make it easy...the problem is getting my arms up there high enough , not to mention my slim ass, wedged between the dpf and frame...i just cant get that small. its tight , then i have no movement of my arms ...i may drop the panel inside and maybe slide down over the valve cover.. I have to mull it a bit.
but i did manage to spin it over freely,
have everything back together, now waiting on a vac pump. Orieeles had theirs rented out...might be making a 60 mile trip to get one at harbor freight or northern tool
stamp11127
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Never hurts to invest in ac tools. If you get a pump get the highest cfm rating you can afford, 6cfm is ideal. You will also need pump oil - which needs to be changed after some use due to trapping moisture. Vac through both the high and low sides.
I hate to say this but that condenser looks like an R12 version. The R134a condensers are huge in comparison.
This is for a Jeep Liberty which I can safely say has less square footage of cabin space to cool than yours.
https://www.google.cz/search?q=auto...AUICigB&biw=1680&bih=913#imgrc=AE7s-wQplYl8FM:
I hate to say this but that condenser looks like an R12 version. The R134a condensers are huge in comparison.
This is for a Jeep Liberty which I can safely say has less square footage of cabin space to cool than yours.
https://www.google.cz/search?q=auto...AUICigB&biw=1680&bih=913#imgrc=AE7s-wQplYl8FM:
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powerboatr
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i hope the condenser is correct, acme warrantied to replace it back in 2010, it came from a local a/c place in dallas near the warranty dealer.
autozone came through and called me about 4:30 and i got a pump.
i hooked everything up around 815 my time and ran the pump for 45 minutes.
i closed everything and will recheck gauges in an hr.
yes i need new lenses for my gauges, i may have to break down and get a new set, i have had these about 15 or so years
autozone came through and called me about 4:30 and i got a pump.
i hooked everything up around 815 my time and ran the pump for 45 minutes.
i closed everything and will recheck gauges in an hr.
yes i need new lenses for my gauges, i may have to break down and get a new set, i have had these about 15 or so years
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powerboatr
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1030 this morning, still holding, so its time for putting in the refrigerant
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powerboatr
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all done,
took 58 oz, based on weight of cans,
oat was 74 with 78% hummidity
pulled 44F at center vents but had an airbox temp of 36F so i need to insulate the plastic hoses they use for runs between the air box and the dash vents.
condensor fan ran like a scalded cat, had lots and lots of condensation on the suction line at the evap and tx valve
i need to mitigate condensation run off, as now with everything secured to the firewall, i get lots more water dripping on the generator,
took 58 oz, based on weight of cans,
oat was 74 with 78% hummidity
pulled 44F at center vents but had an airbox temp of 36F so i need to insulate the plastic hoses they use for runs between the air box and the dash vents.
condensor fan ran like a scalded cat, had lots and lots of condensation on the suction line at the evap and tx valve
i need to mitigate condensation run off, as now with everything secured to the firewall, i get lots more water dripping on the generator,
stamp11127
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What is the high side pressure once it stabilizes?
Remember to pay yourself $130hr for the work you did.
Make sure you put the dust caps on the service ports to keep the dirt out of them or you could blow contaminates into the system next time you hook up.
Remember to pay yourself $130hr for the work you did.
Make sure you put the dust caps on the service ports to keep the dirt out of them or you could blow contaminates into the system next time you hook up.
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powerboatr
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i had 42 to 44 psi on low and 160 on high at steady state. once compressor started cycling on and off the high would slowly climb to 400, then as soon as the compressor kicked on it dropped to normal
new dust caps as well.
it blew me away that the vacum held all night without moving. then right before i started to add refrigerant, i ran the pump again for 40 or so minutes just to double check.
humidity today was and still is brutal, air temps are mid 80s now, air so thick you can cut it.
once the condensor fan kicked on, the system seemed to come alive and really started taking refrigerant.
thanks for the guidance
i figure 130 an hr for really 12 hours of work plus mileage...1660 bucks i saved.
parts were under 150
think maybe a new set of gauges is next.
new dust caps as well.
it blew me away that the vacum held all night without moving. then right before i started to add refrigerant, i ran the pump again for 40 or so minutes just to double check.
humidity today was and still is brutal, air temps are mid 80s now, air so thick you can cut it.
once the condensor fan kicked on, the system seemed to come alive and really started taking refrigerant.
thanks for the guidance
i figure 130 an hr for really 12 hours of work plus mileage...1660 bucks i saved.
parts were under 150
think maybe a new set of gauges is next.
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gixer2000
Retrofit or Bust
Order the gauges themselves not an entire manifold.
Nice job!
Fyi buy the gauges themselves not an entire manifold. Gauges themselves cost like 8 bucks.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
The high side is a little worrysome. The safety will lift on the compressor @450 psi, you shouldn't be anywhere near that. The normal pressures we are seeing here in Ga. are 35-37 on the low and 220 on the high side once the system has stabilized. The high pressure switch may be cycling the compressor on and off. If it is then you have more work to do, it may be as simple as being slightly overcharged.
How long have you let the system run?
At what pressure will the compressor cycle off & on?
What is the static pressure after sitting idle for 30 minutes or more?
Pressure chart for r134a:
http://acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/
How long have you let the system run?
At what pressure will the compressor cycle off & on?
What is the static pressure after sitting idle for 30 minutes or more?
Pressure chart for r134a:
http://acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/
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powerboatr
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static after shut down took about just a few minutes if that long to bring both sides down, iirc it was around 60 on both sides, but i didnt log it,
it was equalizing, then if i restarted it ran in the range , took a minute to get to 44 , it would get to 40 pretty quick then slowly move up. The high side really stayed pretty steady within the range by the chart, 160 was the high for the event, that why i logged it. the range was 150 to 170 for temps. the temps though i question, as it was most certainly hotter around the area. the 0ver 400 was when the compressor shut off, it just sort of climbed slowly , then held , then dropped immediate once compressor was called back to run. the switching is at the drier which controls the condenser fan and the clutch engagement
it was really very smooth and no huge pressure jumps, just making cold air
actually it was SMOOTHER than it ever ran since 2009. that may sound weird, but the it was very stable and no weird behavior. no pulsing of hoses, no weird vibrations, no weird noise
the tx valve got cold and frosty the low side got frosted, then the clutch would be called to shut off and the two would defrost.
it was equalizing, then if i restarted it ran in the range , took a minute to get to 44 , it would get to 40 pretty quick then slowly move up. The high side really stayed pretty steady within the range by the chart, 160 was the high for the event, that why i logged it. the range was 150 to 170 for temps. the temps though i question, as it was most certainly hotter around the area. the 0ver 400 was when the compressor shut off, it just sort of climbed slowly , then held , then dropped immediate once compressor was called back to run. the switching is at the drier which controls the condenser fan and the clutch engagement
it was really very smooth and no huge pressure jumps, just making cold air
actually it was SMOOTHER than it ever ran since 2009. that may sound weird, but the it was very stable and no weird behavior. no pulsing of hoses, no weird vibrations, no weird noise
the tx valve got cold and frosty the low side got frosted, then the clutch would be called to shut off and the two would defrost.
stamp11127
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Static pressure for r134a will usually be close to ambient temp. Since you read 60 that would indicate being low on the charge.
Icing components also indicate a low service charge.
We usually have higher high side pressure than you, also indicates a low charge.
If your evap starts freezing up add more refrigerant - half ounce at a time. The high side will react faster than the low side. Occasionally check the static pressure and compare to ambient temp.
Icing components also indicate a low service charge.
We usually have higher high side pressure than you, also indicates a low charge.
If your evap starts freezing up add more refrigerant - half ounce at a time. The high side will react faster than the low side. Occasionally check the static pressure and compare to ambient temp.
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powerboatr
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i concur that it may be a bit on low side, but am hesitant to add more until i get a good road check next week, waiting on a motor controller now so the bus is basically "on blocks"
the label wanted 56 oz, i know i have by weight right at 58 in the system, but my weights could be off slightly to favor a lower number.
my math shows the system probably should be 60 to 62 oz based on the extended suction hose they installed in 2010, it placed 4 feet and a loop over in the system to remove the torque pull under load and to clear the suspension and pinch points.
i want to make sure i don't accidentally to overcharge.
so getting up tp 65 mph and really moving some air and refrigerant at higher volumes than can be done at fast idle will dictate if i add more.
being a slower rise in low side, does point me to add more. nothing beats a high load test
the label wanted 56 oz, i know i have by weight right at 58 in the system, but my weights could be off slightly to favor a lower number.
my math shows the system probably should be 60 to 62 oz based on the extended suction hose they installed in 2010, it placed 4 feet and a loop over in the system to remove the torque pull under load and to clear the suspension and pinch points.
i want to make sure i don't accidentally to overcharge.
so getting up tp 65 mph and really moving some air and refrigerant at higher volumes than can be done at fast idle will dictate if i add more.
being a slower rise in low side, does point me to add more. nothing beats a high load test
gixer2000
Retrofit or Bust
Tell me more about the switching near the drier for the clutch and condenser fan. I'm curious because seeing a 400psi head is insane and almost impossible if the compressor isn't running. 400psi=183°.
Was just the suction line extended or the liquid line also? I'm asking because the suction line being extended won't change your charge very much but the liquid line will. Remember the liquid line should have a full column of liquid and suction line is mostly vapor so liquid line length being extended is way more important than the suction.
Was just the suction line extended or the liquid line also? I'm asking because the suction line being extended won't change your charge very much but the liquid line will. Remember the liquid line should have a full column of liquid and suction line is mostly vapor so liquid line length being extended is way more important than the suction.
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powerboatr
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the switch on the drier controls the condenser fan and the clutch engagement. at least thats how it appears in the wiring schematic, but then again most the schematics i have are incomplete from damon so there could be another switch
but yes once the compressor shuts off the high side climbed slowly up to 400 ...have no idea why, but everything i read says its possible
then once the compressor came back on the pressure dropped right quick to the levels for the outside temps.
suction line was extended.
but yes once the compressor shuts off the high side climbed slowly up to 400 ...have no idea why, but everything i read says its possible
then once the compressor came back on the pressure dropped right quick to the levels for the outside temps.
suction line was extended.
gixer2000
Retrofit or Bust
If that were the case your static suction would increase also and its not. It makes me question if there is an anti migration solenoid valve that is having the system pump down when it turns off. Solenoid valve would completely close the your liquid line causing an increase until the suction pumps down low enough to trip the low pressure switch. That's really the only thing that makes sense
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powerboatr
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beats me....
if i get my slide room controller fixed this weekend i plan on a highway run to see whats what then see what the gauges indicate.
now i am chasing a phantom 4 volt drop, across a motor controller, 3 brand new controllers and still the same result.
if i jumper and by pass the controllers, its all 100% .
and its only one side of the bus, but all 6 slides get power from same solenoid, but only two slides are acting up.
