2001 5.4l Triton Engine Knocking Noise

[juan214]

Passenger side rear over the starter. Where's the other one? Going to be a PIA repair all weird angles to get at those bolts. Get your drill bits starting from 1/16" - 1/8" , extractors and a right angle drill. Use new black oxide bits you'll need to cut them down get them to fit in tight spots. Remember the head is aluminum don't slip or drill through it. Take it slow and steady.

Micro Extractor set-(in case the stud spins in deeper during drilling) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Standard Extractor set-
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001...

 

[rjdelp7]

Cut all the bolts off, with grinder or torch. Remove the manifold and unscrew the studs with vise grips. If they broke flush, with head, its nightmare/extraction time(Ford designed a special tool). Replace the manifold it may be warped. It cost me $550 to have it done. Its not a job, most shops are thrilled to do. The dealer claims, they do them all the time. Good luck.

 

[1955moose]

Now you know why I never did exaust work at home. It's a tough job due to heat and rust. They actually make jigs to drill out broken studs.Centers the drill bit perfect. Saw a tricked out machine shop in San Francisco years back that had every tricked out centering device I didn't even know existed. Problem is though, you gotta have a straight shot to do it. Best advice, spray down studs/bolts hours before, at least twice or more, and take your time. If you feel a stud not breaking loose, stop, and do a rocking back/forth to break loose.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Yupster Dog]

Undo the engine mount and jack the engine to make a little more room.

 

[juan214]

There are your options from simple (if you want to call it that) to an expense. You'll get at least two more. The bolts are in aluminum heads so once the start they will come out just take you time.

Good luck guy.

 

[TobyU]

Sounded like a rod knock to me from overrevving or being low on oil. Spun rod bearing.

Would have been easier to tell if revved it up to 1500-1800 or so a few times. You can hear the rat a tat tat rattle when it decels.

You can find a spun rod by cancelling out cylinders.
You pull the coil wire off a COP one at a time while holding rpms where it knocks. It will go away mostly when you unhook the COP wires at the cyl that has spun bearing.
You can doctor them in the car.
Pull oil pan and take cap off and get some crocus cloth in long strips to pull around the crank like you are shining shoes. Have to go around evenly and try to keep it round.
I have even run dial calipers around it to try to keep check on it.
Have to get oversized bearing and sand the crank journal down so the clearance is .0015-.0035. Plastigage is about the only way to do it.
Not really that accurate this way and it won't be perfectly round but I have done several and as long as you don't have too high of high spots that make it too tight and spin the new oversized bearing shell, it will last a long time.

Did a 75 Buick Electra 225 with 455 in it, a 350 in 77 El Camino, a 2.2/2.5 in Little Dodge FWD spirit thingy.
The buick was a little lose and you could hear a little clicking down at oil pan but it ran for years and never had an issue with the repair.

They used to turn cranks in the car when this happened!!!
Really hard to find that equipment today, or anyone who knows how or who has ever used it.

 

[1955moose]

A friend of mine did that in my brothers Chevy work truck. Not too many people would go through all the Emery clothing and measurements like you said, but if you got more time than money, it's an option. Takes a while to sand down a hardened crank journal, but it can be done. Never heard of a portable lathe, but sure is cool. Like the Snap on portable brake cutting lathe. Done right on the car.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[juan214]

Theres the two mores answers, think we lost JonnyQball79 though

 

[Machete]

This is why I never take a thread discussion about motor oil lightly. So many failures can be traced to oil issues.

 

[stamp11127]

Yep, another one we have probably wasted out time with. He may be back when the engine blows though.

 

[TobyU]

A friend of mine did that in my brothers Chevy work truck. Not too many people would go through all the Emery clothing and measurements like you said, but if you got more time than money, it's an option. Takes a while to sand down a hardened crank journal, but it can be done. Never heard of a portable lathe, but sure is cool. Like the Snap on portable brake cutting lathe. Done right on the car.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

Oh yes it was common practice back in the fifties up to the 70s to turn one crank journal on the car. Just like the brake lathes and the wheel balancers.

 

[TobyU]

Problem is in the case of oil discussions far too many people take it way too seriously. In the case of spun rod bearings it has nothing to do with synthetic or blend or Molly or Titanium or weight or even if it's been changed very often. It just needs to HAVE oil in there.

 

[1955moose]

Funny, how everyone gets so bent out of shape about oil these days. Like Toby said, it's all about getting oil to the parts, all the time period! Motors are getting so complicated since around 2004. All brands trying to eek out more horsepower, or dodging emissions. In all the years I wrenched on motors, I don't remember any failed oil pumps, and internals weren't exotic like these days. It's just progress, but unfortunately the parts and in some cases assembly, cause so much problems. Maybe Ford's onto something with going back to the more basic 7.3 motor. We'll time will tell. Let's hope they don't release a bomb, that will take 5 years to get right.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[98eb5.4]

did you do a few grades? #s?

You can find a spun rod by cancelling out cylinders.
You pull the coil wire off a COP one at a time while holding rpms where it knocks. It will go away mostly when you unhook the COP wires at the cyl that has spun bearing.
You can doctor them in the car.
Pull oil pan and take cap off and get some crocus cloth in long strips to pull around the crank like you are shining shoes. Have to go around evenly and try to keep it round.
I have even run dial calipers around it to try to keep check on it.
Have to get oversized bearing and sand the crank journal down so the clearance is .0015-.0035. Plastigage is about the only way to do it.
Not really that accurate this way and it won't be perfectly round but I have done several and as long as you don't have too high of high spots that make it too tight and spin the new oversized bearing shell, it will last a long time.

 

[TobyU]

did you do a few grades? #s?

You mean of grit of sandpaper? I did. Might have used some crocus cloth to which is fairly abrasive. I might have used 100 or 150 to start and then once it became smoother polished it up with 400 and then did a final polishing with 600 and wet sanding it.

 

[JonnyQball79]

Yep, rod knock, he didn't charge me so I was only out the tow fee there and back. Bought an 03 expy

 

[rjdelp7]

I listened to your sound, on your video. Its sounds like the fan rubbing on the shroud.