Expedition - Impressed (tow capacity)

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CaptOchs

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Before you start messing with the trailer, pick up (or borrow) one of these: https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sher...sF3HvfvcFgaFDg0KzrQoTo2Oe4Uzlq4gaAmoJEALw_wcB

It will help a lot when you're playing with the wheel locations on the trailer. I've never had one set up properly from a marina, and have always had to adjust my axle locations to dial in the tongue weight.

And for those that constantly recommend WDHs, just note that on boat trailers nearly every manufacturer recommends against them because of the added stress that they put on the tongue itself, which can actually bend if overtaxed by a WDH.


To add to this, the tongue weight should be 10-15% of the weight of trailer+boat. Too much weight and you get squat. Too little and you have handling issues (sway/bounce.) Aren't sure how much your boat weighs? Check out https://www.nadaguides.com/Boats/Power-Boats. You can lookup the weight there.

Rather than spending over a hundred dollars on a scale, a cheaper alternative is a bathroom scale. Put a piece of scrap wood to protect it and measure.
 

Machete

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My money is on a blown head gasket if you keep exceeding the tow rating.

But you can also expect a blown turbo or two, not to mention a traffic ticket for unsafe vehicle operation and possibly jail time if you wipe someone out because you couldn’t stop.

Just saying.
 

Fozzy

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You can add your own air bags... cheap and easy if you buy the manual air bags. Makes a big difference with the tongue weight plus cargo. Load levellers are also a nice addon.

Where do they mount? Model number or vender? Work with the CCD’s?


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TobyU

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I towed 14000 one time on a dump trailer with a 70 CJ5 with a 350 and Muncie Rockcrusher 4 sp manual and manual drum brakes and 33 in mud tires.
Stopping was not up to par. Only out of the woods and through town on surface streets for about 10 miles.
I don't think it would hurt the engine much at all but the trans won't really like it and it is dangerous at speeds. Even with trailer brakes.....stopping might be ok but in a crosswind etc or if it got squirley for any reason, it couls flip the expi in about 3-4 seconds.
I bought the interior out of a 92 Chevy conversion van that was pulling something and it flipped it onto its side.
 

RustyOval

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I have been looking for airbags, but nothing is out yet that I can find. I’m going to get them after the holidays and replace the stock shocks on my FX4 and hope that helps the ride and towing until something comes out.


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There are no airbags that work with the Expy IRS
 

RustyOval

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What brand and model?

I have a Weight Safe adjustable that I use with my HPDE car and Uhaul trailer. The squat is a problem.

The Sumo Springs are an interesting option but I don't want the rear to become unstable when unloaded.

Thoughts?

Sumo springs affect nothing when unloaded
 

RustyOval

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My money is on a blown head gasket if you keep exceeding the tow rating.

But you can also expect a blown turbo or two, not to mention a traffic ticket for unsafe vehicle operation and possibly jail time if you wipe someone out because you couldn’t stop.

Just saying.

I dont think so. Same 3.5 as in the pickups.
 

TBaganATX

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I have them installed on mine. If definitely helps, but not like an air suspension would...

Zig10 which size/part # did you get? .94 #css1094 or 1.68 #css-1168. I'm out of town and want to order them. Thanks!


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techdude99

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Based on the cost, reviews, and ease of installation, I'm going to try the Sumo Springs first.

The Camaro ZL1 1LE is 3820 lbs and a new all aluminum trailer will be around 1500 lbs.

If it's unstable a WD hitch is next.
 

Michael McC

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Glad to see some educated people regarding towing here. I'm interested in suggestions on my towing. I have a 2017 with 3.73 gears and a 2" lift on all 4 corners. Towing an aluminum 4Star 2-horse trailer that weighs 3,200 lbs. empty. Usually less than 2,000 lbs. of horse in it.

The Expy tows it like a dream. No sway, plenty of power, good stopping with e brakes. My problem is the tongue weight. They put the wheels WAY too far back on most horse trailers. Empty tongue weight is 400 lbs. per 4Star. Measured at the hitch, the back end drops 2" when I connect the trailer (empty). If I put one horse in the back, it comes up a bit. Two horses and it's lower, so over 400 lbs. tongue weight.

I know I'm close to exceeding recommended tongue weight and I always feel like I'm trashing my shocks. I'm interested in suggestions going forward. I have thought about Sumo Springs, but that's more of a band-aid. I have talked to a couple of 4Star dealers. Not much help. They agree I would have to modify the trailer to even access the frame rails, as they are covered. Might also need to drill holes. Looking at the hitch below, on huge discount.

Or should I just get the Monroe shocks with the spring built in? They load the gas part first, then engage the spring when loaded. Got a pair for my daughter's F150. Any thoughts or ideas?

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP67509.html
 
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Zig10

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Glad to see some educated people regarding towing here. I'm interested in suggestions on my towing. I have a 2017 with 3.73 gears and a 2" lift on all 4 corners. Towing an aluminum 4Star 2-horse trailer that weighs 3,200 lbs. empty. Usually less than 2,000 lbs. of horse in it.

The Expy tows it like a dream. No sway, plenty of power, good stopping with e brakes. My problem is the tongue weight. They put the wheels WAY too far back on most horse trailers. Empty tongue weight is 400 lbs. per 4Star. Measured at the hitch, the back end drops 2" when I connect the trailer (empty). If I put one horse in the back, it comes up a bit. Two horses and it's lower, so over 400 lbs. tongue weight.

I know I'm close to exceeding recommended tongue weight and I always feel like I'm trashing my shocks. I'm interested in suggestions going forward. I have thought about Sumo Springs, but that's more of a band-aid. I have talked to a couple of 4Star dealers. Not much help. They agree I would have to modify the trailer to even access the frame rails, as they are covered. Might also need to drill holes. Looking at the hitch below, on huge discount.

Or should I just get the Monroe shocks with the spring built in? They load the gas part first, then engage the spring when loaded. Got a pair for my daughter's F150. Any thoughts or ideas?

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP67509.html

For Horse / Travel trailers with heavy tongue weights I have always been under the opinion that a WDH (like you showed) is the answer. With the lift, the overload on the tongue weight would likely be even more pronounced because the COG is higher in the vehicle.

That said, if you're running at highway speeds, I'd probably look at one with the anti-sway connections, too. Something like this: https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Equal-i-zer/EQ37101ET.html
 

duneslider

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For Horse / Travel trailers with heavy tongue weights I have always been under the opinion that a WDH (like you showed) is the answer. With the lift, the overload on the tongue weight would likely be even more pronounced because the COG is higher in the vehicle.

That said, if you're running at highway speeds, I'd probably look at one with the anti-sway connections, too. Something like this: https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Equal-i-zer/EQ37101ET.html

Go with the WDH with sway control that is best supported by the "trailer places" where you live. I bought the Reese WDH with sway control (Love it!) but NOBODY in my area carries it, knows how it works, stocks parts, etc. I later found out the Equal-i-zer is made here and that is what EVERYONE uses, carries, stocks parts for, etc. If I need something I have to order it online, if I need help I have to search online. Hasn't been a huge problem but it could be. So, give some of the RV dealers or trailer places in your area a call and see what brand they stock and sell. I almost missed a trip because online parts delivery was slow.
 

shane_th_ee

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Couple that with the smaller tank on the newer ones and this is starting to sound like I keep mine longer.

Suggestions?
Don't worry about the smaller tank. The increased fuel economy of the 3.5L w/10speed means the range is the same.
 

RustyOval

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Leveling the tow vehicle by giving extra support to the rear suspension doesn't really do anything. If you do not want a "white knuckle" tow, get a WDH. A WDH will actually transfer weight to the front axle where it needs to be. If the WDH is set up correctly the space between the top of the tires and the fender wells will be nearly the same amount of inches lower in the front as well as in the back. I have always had a little more squat in the back and this is normal. (Im talking 3/4" - 1 1/2" diference).
 

Molaf

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Leveling the tow vehicle by giving extra support to the rear suspension doesn't really do anything. If you do not want a "white knuckle" tow, get a WDH. A WDH will actually transfer weight to the front axle where it needs to be. If the WDH is set up correctly the space between the top of the tires and the fender wells will be nearly the same amount of inches lower in the front as well as in the back. I have always had a little more squat in the back and this is normal. (Im talking 3/4" - 1 1/2" diference).
What are your thoughts on Andersen chain WDH?

https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3350-Weight-Distribution-Hitch44/dp/B006X21B0M/?tag=car-bibles-20
 
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Fozzy

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Leveling the tow vehicle by giving extra support to the rear suspension doesn't really do anything.

Absolutely does, it keeps your headlights level so you don’t blind everyone at night and puts the light back down on the road so you can see.



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RustyOval

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Absolutely does, it keeps your headlights level so you don’t blind everyone at night and puts the light back down on the road so you can see.



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Ill give you that, but the front axle is still light.
 

m3bs

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