Question on True Synthetic oil (5.4L)

[JExpedition07]

I changed my oil and used Mobil 1 High Mileage Full Synthetic. Mobil claims boosted levels of seal conditioner in this product which is why I chose it for the chain tensioners. My question is what makes an oil truly synthetic? The Mobil 1 says Full Synthetic, but then some bottles say 100% Synthetic. Are they all blends besides the 100%? I always have used Motorcraft Synthetic Blend in the past. There are also crazy expensive oils that I’m not sure why anyone would take off the shelf for a daily driver.

 

[07navi]

I just changed my oil and used Mobil 1 High Mileage Full Synthetic. Mobil claims boosted levels of seal conditioner in this product which is why I chose it for the chain tensioners. My question is what makes an oil truly synthetic? The Mobil 1 says Full Synthetic, but then some bottles say 100% Synthetic. Are they all blends besides the 100%? I always have used Motorcraft Synthetic Blend in the past. There are also crazy expensive oils that I’m not sure why anyone would take off the shelf for a daily driver.

Full is 100%. Synthetic is just highly refined regular oil with added conditioners. The molecules are actually smaller and more uniform so probably worse for tensioner leaks. Those tensioner seals are either working well or blown out anyway. I was thinking about using Permatex #1 on them next time I replace them. I wouldn't let them influence your oil buying though. There are more powerful seal swellers out there but I doubt if any would have any effect on the tensioner O rings.

 

[JExpedition07]

Full is 100%. Synthetic is just highly refined regular oil with added conditioners. The molecules are actually smaller and more uniform so probably worse for tensioner leaks. Those tensioner seals are either working well or blown out anyway. I was thinking about using Permatex #1 on them next time I replace them. I wouldn't let them influence your oil buying though. There are more powerful seal swellers out there but I doubt if any would have any effect on the tensioner O rings.

I was having a cold start rattle from the tensioners in the morning so I added seal conditioner agent to the oil about 3,000 miles ago and it has made the rattles go away. Cold starts have been quiet now. I figure this oil will help prolong the seals some. Thanks for clarification on the 100% synthetic vs full synthetic. That was my suspicion that the 100% was the genuine stuff.

 

[07navi]

I was having cold start rattle from the tensioners in the morning so I added seal conditioner to the oil about 3,000 miles ago and it has made the rattles go away. Cold starts have been quiet now. I figure this oil will help prolong the seals some.

Great if it worked but synthetic will leak easier than regular oil which is probably why they add seal swellers (if they did) and I doubt if there is much in it compared to a dedicated sealer. The temperature has an effect on the tensioners also (worse on cold days). I think oil pressure on start up affects them also so when you do fix them a better oil pump might help. I think Melling makes one, and make sure you use Motorcraft filter with the good drain-back valves they have in them.

 

[JExpedition07]

Great if it worked but synthetic will leak easier than regular oil which is probably why they add seal swellers if they did and I doubt if there is much in it compared to a dedicated sealer. The temperature has an effect on the tensioners also (worse on cold days).

So far so good, I changed to the Mobil 1 two days ago and she has still been quiet on cold starts. These tensioners still blow out on the newer 5.0, EcoBoost, 6.2 engines too and they get the same rattles in the F-150 trucks. You’d think they’d spend a buck and put in cast tensioners.

 

[07navi]

So far so good, I changed to the Mobil 1 two days ago and she has still been quiet on cold starts. These tensioners still blow out on the newer 5.0, EcoBoost, 6.2 engines too and they get the same rattles in the F-150 trucks. You’d think they’d spend a buck and put in cast tensioners.

Or cast ones with JB weld…………..lol

 

[JExpedition07]

Or cast ones with JB weld…………..lol

From my research the seals fail in 2 main ways. Sometimes they blow out in a spot and other times they flatten out and start to whither like a pancake. I’m guessing mine were doing the latter since seal sweller helped the situation. The older engines used simple cast ratcheting tensioners that had no problems. Here is the updated tensioner vs an old leaker with the OEM whithered seal.

 

[07navi]

I think the main improvement is when they started putting a ridge around the perimeter that contained the seal and recessed the O ring on both the cast and plastic ones. They are definitely a one time use item. I am surprised with all the smart engineers out there they can't contain oil under pressure on a part like this.

 

[IIGood]

I am surprised with all the smart engineers out there they can't contain oil under pressure on a part like this.

...but....COST!! That's $.07 part will jack the price of the vehicle up by $5000!!!

(kidding, of course, but a semi-truth there perhaps)

 

[Shantheman73]

I was having a cold start rattle from the tensioners in the morning so I added seal conditioner agent to the oil about 3,000 miles ago and it has made the rattles go away. Cold starts have been quiet now. I figure this oil will help prolong the seals some. Thanks for clarification on the 100% synthetic vs full synthetic. That was my suspicion that the 100% was the genuine stuff.

Please tell me what you used! I’m having same rattles on start up...


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JExpedition07]

Please tell me what you used! I’m having same rattles on start up...


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The stuff was thick so I only put in half of the recommended amount. It took about 2 weeks of driving when the rattles started to subside and the more I drove the better it got. Used it in November. Keep in mind this may only help if the tensioner is on the verge of failing but not failed yet.

 

[Shantheman73]

The stuff was thick so I only put in half of the recommended amount. It took about 2 weeks of driving when the rattles started to subside and the more I drove the better it got. Used it in November. Keep in mind this may only help if the tensioner is on the verge of failing but not failed yet.
View attachment 34240

I’ve got 170k on mine. It’s worth a try! Thank you.


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Papaboo]

I'd like to add that I have a 2014 Expedition with 78000 miles and the only oil I have ever used in this engine is
Signature Series 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil, since I had 500 miles on the engine. It's a excellent oil that can go 25000 miles between oil changes, I usually change the oil once every 18000 miles or once a year. My engine uses no oil and the oil is still clean after being used for this mileage. The engine runs nice and smooth and quiet. I have been using this oil in all my vehicles including my boats and other cars with the same results. I feel that the superior results from this oil is worth the extra cost and satisfaction of having no problems with my engine. Like I said all I can say is my experience with this oil. Just ,my input.
Thanks

Just posted some pictures updated to projector headlights, new fog lights and connected DRL's and changed all lighting to leds. I did it correctly and had it done professionally.

 

[joethefordguy]

https://www.aussiev8.com.au/motul-l...ifference-between-100-full-synthetic-oil.html

http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.html
"Both Exxon and Mobil in the past have produced chemically synthetic base oils.
In case of Exxon they were mostly synthetic hindered esters.
In case of Mobil they were C10 based Poly-alpha-olefins (PAO).

Today ExxonMobil produces SpectraSyn in Beaumont Texas USA (Refinery) and Gravenchon France. The product is C10 based PAO.

"Alkylated Naphthalene" under Synesstic Brand and Ester under Esterex Brand are made by associated company - ExxonMobil Chemical."

"I was there" when synthetic oils were first mass marketed for cars. It was my understanding then that Mobil 1 was entirely man-made.
It appears that even if that is still the case, good luck verifying it. There are as many opinions on this as there are web sites about it.
As always, marketing is king. Marketing is concerned with sales, not accuracy. It's only regard for truth is that a reputation for lying can kill a market effort faster than a war.

 

[JExpedition07]

Thank you good article Joe. That was my suspicion on the marketing terms. I think I’ll stick with the Mobil 1 here on out despite it not being the best. Seems like a *Decent* oil and a little step up from the MC Blend I’ve been using. From what I can see it looks like Motorcraft blend is just very well refined base oils with an additive pack.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

The phrases “full synthetic” and “100% synthetic” are redundant. The phrases are marketing hype.

Similar to “brand new”, “now open”, “fully closed”, “now hiring”, etc. - instead of new, open, closed, or hiring.

 

[07navi]

I'd like to add that I have a 2014 Expedition with 78000 miles and the only oil I have ever used in this engine is
Signature Series 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil, since I had 500 miles on the engine. It's a excellent oil that can go 25000 miles between oil changes, I usually change the oil once every 18000 miles or once a year. My engine uses no oil and the oil is still clean after being used for this mileage. The engine runs nice and smooth and quiet. I have been using this oil in all my vehicles including my boats and other cars with the same results. I feel that the superior results from this oil is worth the extra cost and satisfaction of having no problems with my engine. Like I said all I can say is my experience with this oil. Just ,my input.
Thanks

Just posted some pictures updated to projector headlights, new fog lights and connected DRL's and changed all lighting to leds. I did it correctly and had it done professionally.

I doubt all that. All big oil names are pretty much the same and there is no silver bullet when it comes to oil. Changing oil at 25k miles is ridiculous. All oil gets dirty and contaminated with condensation. When they first came out with the synthetic oil (not really synthetic) they had claims of tons of miles before changing, then is was lowered again and again. I change my synthetic (which IS good oil) every 5k miles but it might be good for more. Don't listen to hype!

 

[07navi]

https://www.aussiev8.com.au/motul-l...ifference-between-100-full-synthetic-oil.html

http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.html
"Both Exxon and Mobil in the past have produced chemically synthetic base oils.
In case of Exxon they were mostly synthetic hindered esters.
In case of Mobil they were C10 based Poly-alpha-olefins (PAO).

Today ExxonMobil produces SpectraSyn in Beaumont Texas USA (Refinery) and Gravenchon France. The product is C10 based PAO.

"Alkylated Naphthalene" under Synesstic Brand and Ester under Esterex Brand are made by associated company - ExxonMobil Chemical."

"I was there" when synthetic oils were first mass marketed for cars. It was my understanding then that Mobil 1 was entirely man-made.
It appears that even if that is still the case, good luck verifying it. There are as many opinions on this as there are web sites about it.
As always, marketing is king. Marketing is concerned with sales, not accuracy. It's only regard for truth is that a reputation for lying can kill a market effort faster than a war.

Mobil One is not man made, all synthetics are highly refined "regular" oil with a lot of additives. There is no silver bullet when it comes to oil. All the big names are the same or close to it.

 

[GaryB]

I've used Mobil 1 on all my vehicles for as long as I can remember. But, everyone keeps telling me they're all the same. Just switched to Kirkland brand full sythetic 5-30 from costco. At $25 for 10 qts, it's the cheapest I've seen yet and has all the stamps of approval I can't understand...Time will tell.

 

[Steve Hartman]

For those of you with COSTCO cards, Mobile 1 goes on sale about once every three months. A case of six quarts costs $28.00. That's under $4.75 a quart plus sales tax for those of you who have to pay that. Seems like mighty cheap insurance to me.

I have a 2001 5.4 SSV that I bought at auction from the Feds in 2005, right after its warranty had expired. It had 135,000 miles on it. Today it has 262,000 miles on it and I have never even had a trouble light except for "service soon." I've had a start up ticky-ticky since I bought it, but no oil leaks and it continues to run like a top. I live in rural mountainous Montana where temp fluctuations during my ownership have gone from -38° to +104. It has been one hell of a vehicle! Of course, being so far from shopping and only going once or twice a month, I have had little stop-and-go on the engine, which may be the reason it has lasted so long.

I loved this Expy so much I bought another one - a 2007 SSV also from the Feds. So now I have 2! LOL! Bought it in 2015 with 148,000 miles for $4400. This one, however, came from the Seattle area rather than the Montana area. Now with almost 180,000 miles on it I got an error code for O2 sensor so I replaced all four of them. The code came back again - Bank one, Sensor 1, I think. So I am suspecting a bad catalytic converter. But bought an extended warranty for it so feel lucky there as well.

Boy! Have I strayed off topic! I guess the point is, I run Mobile 1 exclusively and have had no major problems with either vehicle and love 'em to pieces!