6R75 Replacement

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
Frustrating albeit interesting saga! :) Were you successful with the state inspection when it was working a couple of months ago? (Just curious.)

-- Chuck

Inspection due in May I believe. It’s really been a miserable job but doable for sure, nothing was designed for service on these trucks.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
Still waiting to put it back together. Converter in the trans. I blew out my shoulder after it was already effed up when working out and haven’t been able to do much with my right arm being useless in pain lol. It’s starting to get better will likely get back at it tomorrow or the following today.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
Shoulder has only gotten worse, a lot of pain and I can’t move my arm much today....feels very weak. Trans is on hold a few more days LOL. Went to help my dad put up a big evaporator for a big customer of his this morning and after lifting that my shoulder called it quits and gave out.....seems like a torn rotator cuff. Looks like I’ll be driving the spare F-250 a bit longer.

Not going to any doctor or healthcare facility with this corona virus going around. They aren’t doing any non emergency stuff anyway. Anyway enough of my whining!!!! It’ll get there as soon as I can get back under it and I’ll include fastener sizes and tips once I go back at it and recall what is what.
 
Last edited:

07navi

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 3, 2020
Posts
2,535
Reaction score
598
Location
Mt.Shasta California
Shoulder has only gotten worse, a lot of pain and I can’t move my arm much today....feels very weak. Trans is on hold a few more days LOL. Went to help my dad put up a big evaporator for a big customer of his this morning and after lifting that my shoulder called it quits and gave out.....seems like a torn rotator cuff. Looks like I’ll be driving the spare F-250 a bit longer.

Not going to any doctor or healthcare facility with this corona virus going around. They aren’t doing any non emergency stuff anyway. Anyway enough of my whining!!!! It’ll get there as soon as I can get back under it and I’ll include fastener sizes and tips once I go back at it and recall what is what.
Maybe you can get a friend to help you, I would if I lived there. They won't let me in my doctors office here either, California is pretty much shut down all over.
 
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
Did a little as I could today. Very close to the finish line. Almost there!!! So your starter is 3 (13mm) bolts. You will need a 3/8” drive socket and ratchet, you will need two swivels as well as two extensions. Go through the manifold and frame rail to get the top bolt off. Do this first off unlike me lol. For the middle starter bolt you need to go up in front of your control arm and stick an extension back to get on it. I tackled the driveshafts next, remove both front and rear. Front is 2 CV joints on both ends so remove bolts in both ends

Next I worked on the exhaust, you need to take the mid-pipe out which includes both catalytic converters. Disconnect all 4 oxygen sensors. No need to take them out, just follow the wires and disconnect the harness. BE SURE TO UNCLIP ALL WIRE RETAINER OFF TRANS. Remove the manifold flange bolts and then move back and cut the pipe to muffler bolts if rusty like mine. I sliced the forks that go into the mounts to remove easier and welded them back together for the install.

Once the exhaust system is dropped out support the transmission with your jack. The crossmember has 4 18 MM nuts and 15 mm bolts so you’ll need both sizes. A 13 MM deep well socket is what gets the trans mount nuts. Now pry the ends and the cross member will drop out.

Now get all bell housing bolts (13mm) but first drop the heat shield on the passenger side (easy). The top two are WAY up in there, get a light and prepare to swear ALOT lol. I had to lower the rear of trans to get the top ones to drop out afterward.

Lastly I took the inspection cover off the TC area by oil pan. There are 4 converter to flex plate bolts. You need to rotate the engine via the crank and a breaker bar to get all 4 of them, you can get one at a time. Once those are out the trans is free. Walk it off the dowels and she comes down. The old converter hung in there and took a bit of work to remove.

Install new converter, rotate it and make sure you push it in and seat it all the way in there. (Measure the old one and make sure it matches).....now you go in reverse.....
 
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
Extra Notes***

The transmission cooler lines are held in by a 13 mm, loosen and they work off

The shift cable has a heat shield, pull that off and reveal the plastic clip. You stick a flat blade in the slot and slide it up, that will remove your cable. Also two 10 mm bolts on that cable on the yellow bracket above the swivel point......once you get that out it’s free.

Also don’t forget the main trans connector lol. Back right of the housing.

There really was no reason to take off the Transfer case in this truck, I ended up putting the bolts back in and never separated it from the transmission completely. Just supported both with two separate jacks. The reason I didn’t remove is the transfer case actually is what had the mount on it not the trans.....so in my case they came as a package deal or it was more difficult.
 
Last edited:

07navi

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 3, 2020
Posts
2,535
Reaction score
598
Location
Mt.Shasta California
Extra Notes***

The transmission cooler lines are held in by a 10 mm, loosen and they work off

The shift cable has a heat shield, pull that off and reveal the plastic clip. You stick a flat blade in the slot and slide it up, that will remove your cable. Also two 10 mm bolts on that cable on the yellow bracket above the swivel point......once you get that out it’s free.

Also don’t forget the main trans connector lol. Back right of the housing.

There really was no reason to take off the Transfer case in this truck, I ended up putting the bolts back in and never separated it from the transmission completely. Just supported both with two separate jacks. The reason I didn’t remove is the transfer case actually is what had the mount on it not the trans.....so in my case they came as a package deal or it was more difficult.
I worked in a lot of transmission shops when I was a kid and the average time to drop one out after it was jacked up was 30 to 45 minutes or you would probably get fired but that shows you how cramped they have become. My record time for dropping a Chevy Powerglide was 18 minutes.
 
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
I worked in a lot of transmission shops when I was a kid and the average time to drop one out after it was jacked up was 30 to 45 minutes or you would probably get fired but that shows you how cramped they have become. My record time for dropping a Chevy Powerglide was 18 minutes.

I’d imagine Ford book rate for this job is 5-6 hours for a dealer tech imo. It’s pretty involved and super duper cramped. To keep my sanity I’ve went Sssllloooowwww.
 

07navi

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 3, 2020
Posts
2,535
Reaction score
598
Location
Mt.Shasta California
I’d imagine Ford book rate for this job is 5-6 hours for a dealer tech imo. It’s pretty involved and super duper cramped. To keep my sanity I’ve went Sssllloooowwww.
At least now you have more experience with it. We are lucky we can do most things ourselves.
 
Last edited:

chuck s

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 20, 2006
Posts
1,990
Reaction score
753
Location
Chesterfield, VA (that's south of Richmond, y'all)
I swapped out a mechanical hard drive for a solid state drive in my HP Z820 workstation yesterday. Just saying. :angels25:

(Nice job on the Expedition!)

I'm convinced guys modifying computers and gaming PCs with liquid cooling and enough blinking LEDs fans to cause an epileptic seizure is due to the near impossibility of doing things like repairing late model cars and trucks. Not to mention the tool requirements.

-- Chuck
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
She’s all fixed, seeing that tach drop to 1,750 at 65 and no wrench feels better than sex. Nightmare over. Used a rebuilt OEM torque converter just an FYI.

C8122C8A-5494-41DE-9243-8C752EFCCFB9.jpeg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
Also found out my slang where I always call it the “6R” transmission for short is correct. On the side of the case it’s stamped “Ford 6R” not 6R75.
 
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
6R75 was used for two model years 2007 and 2008 Expeditions. The Torque Converters I saw when shopping said they were universal to the 6R60,6R75, and 6R80 Transmissions. I still specified my exact model year and vehicle to be safe, as should everyone.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
Also, if you are working on your 07-08 6R75 don’t forget your ATF! Only use the following:
1311D259-EAB8-416D-B0E9-7BA7C00FBD80.jpeg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
So that’s a wrap on the thread, it almost feels like it needs a small lift LOL. It was up on jacks so long I’ve been used to it standing taller....anyway it’s nice to have it back up under its own power in the midst of all this...

72585AD0-E709-4C10-958D-7106C88582DE.jpeg
8EF0D1D8-6E21-4152-93A4-C210A25609FF.jpeg


Pictured here is the new torque converter being installed, here I have it over the first two clicks.....my final tip I’ll share is that to get it over the pump is fairy difficult. Just rotate and push to get it over the first two, the last one you have to take off the pressure and rotate until you feel it mesh with the pump, I pulled out ever so slightly, when she lines up push it in and it’ll sit in there.
 

07navi

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 3, 2020
Posts
2,535
Reaction score
598
Location
Mt.Shasta California
Strange looking converter front, for many years you had to spin the converter until the holes lined up and bolt directly to front tabs on converter itself from the engine side.
 
OP
OP
JExpedition07

JExpedition07

That One Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,530
Reaction score
3,140
Location
New York
I found this video and found tons of 2007 and 2008 owners complaining of TC shudders and disengagement concerns. This all stems back to the 6R75 Torque Converter folks.....the problem is the friction modifier in the ATF wears down over time and your lockup starts to rapidly shudder......first step is do a fluid swap and it will often solve it. Next step is replace the torque converter like I did. Dr. Trans Shudder fix works for many too. I’m finding out my TC was worn and they masked the issue when I bought it but that’s water under the bridge, eventually if let go the shudder will wear out your lock up mechanism on the TC and replacement is your only option.

One big key here: I changed all the Mercon SP to new fluid and a new filter. I also highly recommend anyone who goes this far to drop out the valve body and replace your pump bridge seal that is prone to cracking on the 6R75 & 6R80.....everything replaced in the Torque Converter circuit on this trans including TCC solenoid and let me tell you-new truck!!! That bridge seal bleeds off pressure if cracked and it’s cheap. I saw many who didn’t change the fluid over had the issue return over time. If you get into this dig deeper and pull the pan. Verify that seal and be sure to change out your ATF to protect the new converter. If the pump bridge seal is cracked you are bleeding off pressure to your brand new converter.

*NOTE: 6R75 & 6R80 both share this failure prone bridge seal*

 
Top