63000 “certified” 3.5L eco boost replacement

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ManUpOrShutUp

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Small update. Haven’t been able to speak with a mechanic. I was able to strike a “deal” with the warranty company. Putting in a brand new engine, they’re paying the $3000 they say their engine costs (I’d love to see their invoice but they said it’s “internal information,” because when I look at LKQ’s 3.5L engines online, they’re all high $4000 or $5000 depending on mileage), I’m paying remaining $3000 for they new engine, they’re covering all the rest of labor and miscellaneous b.s. Don’t love it, but better than nothing.

NOW the service manager tells me that they’re on backorder, and he has NFC when they’ll be back. My engine, they say, has been escalated to the level above “emergency”, he called it COPAS or something like that.
Thankfully my mom let me borrow her extra vehicle, but it’s putting a major cramp in my summer plans not having the expy.

So you have a warranty and still have to pony up $3k just to avoid a junkyard engine? JFC. :x
 
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So you have a warranty and still have to pony up $3k just to avoid a junkyard engine? JFC. :x
That is the ducked choice I had to make, yes. Labor, misc. parts, and ~$3000 towards the new Ford engine is from them. I could have taken the one with the unknown 63000 miles on it and paid nothing and have a functional, albeit ticking hand grenade engine in my vehicle, right now, or done it this way, and unfortunately waiting potentially forever. Had I known the engine was backordered before I refused their engine, I think I may have made another choice. Total Kobayashi Maru for those Trek geeks out there.
 
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Boostedbus

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If you’re gonna pony up $3K towards a new crate engine then I’d say you’d be a fool to unload it afterwards. If you don’t want or trust it anymore then you should take the free junk yard engine and then unload it. The other consideration is that the used car prices are at a high and there’s no guarantees you won’t end up with something worse.
 

Boostedbus

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You should have some negotiating power with your warranty co. because of the crate engine coming with it’s own warranty from Ford. I would find out what that warranty from Ford is and have them compensate for that time period that they won’t be liable. Use all the leverage that you can. It also takes away the unknown used engine risk for them, which could be big. You taking the new engine deal is a no brainer for them.
 
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You should have some negotiating power with your warranty co. because of the crate engine coming with it’s own warranty from Ford. I would find out what that warranty from Ford is and have them compensate for that time period that they won’t be liable. Use all the leverage that you can. It also takes away the unknown used engine risk for them, which could be big. You taking the new engine deal is a no brainer for them.

The Ford engine has a 3 year, unlimited mile warranty. The warranty company is soon to be irrelevant because coverage only lasts up until 100000 miles, which I’m just over 2000 miles from hitting.
 

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The Ford engine has a 3 year, unlimited mile warranty. The warranty company is soon to be irrelevant because coverage only lasts up until 100000 miles, which I’m just over 2000 miles from hitting.

Wow, that's a pretty ****** warranty if it's a legitimately new engine. Jasper provides a 3-year, 100,000 mile warranty (more miles than the vast majority of people will ever drive in those 3 years anyway) on their remans.
 
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Wow, that's a pretty ****** warranty if it's a legitimately new engine. Jasper provides a 3-year, 100,000 mile warranty (more miles than the vast majority of people will ever drive in those 3 years anyway) on their remans.

Longer than three years would be nice, but I still felt it was the best option I had. Not sure I would come out anywhere but far behind if I put the junker engine in and unload the truck for another, semi-unknown vehicle, especially since I just put new bilsteins, and ridge grapplers on my truck. Just hoping for the best out of this frustrating situation.
 

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I agree with your decision under the circumstances. I wish you good luck and make sure you follow their break in procedures on the new engine. I’d change the break in oil and filter after 500 mi.even if they say there isn’t any break in period.
 

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The Ford engine has a 3 year, unlimited mile warranty. The warranty company is soon to be irrelevant because coverage only lasts up until 100000 miles, which I’m just over 2000 miles from hitting.

But, the engine still should carry that warranty through Ford. Nothing else will be covered after it hits the 100,000 mile mark though.
 
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But, the engine still should carry that warranty through Ford. Nothing else will be covered after it hits the 100,000 mile mark though.
Correct, the 3 year, unlimited miles warrant will be on the Ford engine only. The rest of the vehicle’s warranty, through Carvana, will expire January 2022, or 100,000 miles (only about 2,000 miles from that), whichever comes first.
 
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Just finally got my truck back. To say there were complications would be an understatement. As said above, I was going on pay over the top to put a brand new engine in, rather than the 63000 certified one. For a few weeks, I was told it was backordered. Then I get word the engine is just straight up discontinued, so I was left with being “forced” to accept the 63000 certified one. It runs well, there’s a few things I have questions about. When I was putting my catch can back on, I noticed the radiator coolant reservoir is greenish now, so either they put the wrong coolant in, or the engine received had residual incorrect coolant in it. There’s also a “sucking”/exhaust leaking sound I hear near the passenger footwell when I give it some gas. I start to hear it when I give it enough (or more) to get to go to about 3500rpm before shifting. Assuming it’s related to a highish boost scenario. At the end of the day, this job (at the dealer) would have cost over $9000, so as far as the warranty company goes, I’m coming out ahead of what I put in as far as that contract. Not I love with the situation, but it could’ve been far worse if this happened 3000 miles later.
As far as the two concerns, am I being not-picky? More so thinking the coolant may be more so than hearing a new noise from the turbos.

thanks for the advise, all.
 

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That's a pretty sordid story. At first I thought they were lying to you about the engine being discontinued, but sure enough, I went to Tasca Ford Parts and both the long block and short block are discontinued for this vintage of Expedition/Navigator/F150/Transit. The crankshaft is also discontinued, which I think is the source of the issues, because the cylinder block and many other engine parts are still available. You could piece one together if you can find a crankshaft. What a charlie foxtrot.

I would run the engine for a bit and do an oil analysis after maybe 1000 miles to make sure there's no coolant in the oil or anything else amiss like excessive bearing wear or anything.


[edit] appears this service assembly long block is available:
 
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JExpedition07

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Your telling me Ford remanufacturing does new 5.4 Tritons but no 1st gen EcoBoosts?? Wtf is that, or are you talking a new long block?? Ford does have a reman program where they redress and redo all internals. Still a new engine basically. If you are saying the crank is discontinued I don’t think they can reman though. That is very strange.

Just checked Tasca Ford, no issue with 5.4 crank availability. Wonder if it’s COVID related.
 
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Your telling me Ford remanufacturing does new 5.4 Tritons but no 1st gen EcoBoosts?? Wtf is that, or are you talking a new long block?? Ford does have a reman program where they redress and redo all internals. Still a new engine basically. If you are saying the crank is discontinued I don’t think they can reman though. That is very strange.

Just checked Tasca Ford, no issue with 5.4 crank availability. Wonder if it’s COVID related.
New long block.
 
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