Compression test 01 Navigator

[Hamfisted]

Yeah, I believe the passenger side sprockets need to be flipped, so that the bevel side is on the outside. It's reverse of the driver's side sprockets. Leave your driver's side alone, but just flip the passenger side sprockets around. Make sure timing marks all line up still.


Timing Chain Install Ford 4V




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[Fordgirl01]

Really? I thought of that but the little “nubs” that go into the notch on the shafts are rounded on one side, so I thought they were supposed to go one way. I will try flipping them over. Thank you and I will report back.

 

[Fordgirl01]

Yeah, I believe the passenger side sprockets need to be flipped, so that the bevel side is on the outside. It's reverse of the driver's side sprockets. Leave your driver's side alone, but just flip the passenger side sprockets around. Make sure timing marks all line up still.


Timing Chain Install Ford 4V

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By golly, I think you figured it out!! Thanks sooooo much!!

 

[Fordgirl01]

I finally got the cam sprockets and chain on the RH side (it was pretty problematic between the pressure from the rollers still being on and having to put them on backwards). I ultimately prevailed after having to walk away from it several times! I put the 2 big chains on today. Everything was going without too much of a hitch until I opened up the new tensioners. The new ones came with plates-the old ones just bolted on with no plates. What’s with the plates? Should I use them? It seems like they would prevent a lot of oil from getting in there to make them work.

 

[Hamfisted]

If your motor didn't have the steel backflow plates you don't need them. Just bolt the new tensioners on directly. What brand are your new tensioners ?

 

[Fordgirl01]

Great-thank you. That was my thought but I wanted to make sure! The tensioners came with the Melling timing kit.

 

[Fordgirl01]

Quick update-I haven’t had a lot of time to spend on the old navigator but I did turn it over by hand last weekend several times. Nothing seems to be binding and all marks seem to be in the right spot
I dug out the engine cover and bolts. I cleaned up the cover and the surfaces it will bolt up to. I’ll get that back on this weekend. Slow and steady wins the race, right?!!

 

[Ulver]

Good stuff! Just don't do what I did and keep the old thicker crank reluctor wheel on if you received a new thinner one with a new crank sprocket. Not using the newer reluctor sprocket in combination with the new (thicker) crank sprocket caused the timing cover to crack on torquing down the cover bolts because of the reluctor wheel protruding out more. Caused a load of pressure on the timing cover against the reluctor wheel and cracked the hell out of it. I spent the next couple weeks trying to find one online, and finally had to go to a junkyard to get a new cover. It's looking good as new with the aluminum spray paint job I did.

 

[Fordgirl01]

Yikes-I didn’t read this until after I put the cover back on! I did match up all my new parts to the old ones and nothing was a different size, so luckily that wasn’t an issue. So I did get the engine cover back on-I hate doing things that have a time limit. The service manual said I had 4 minutes after putting the sealant on the spots it
illustrated. I didn’t time myself, but I wasn’t taking it back off.
I got the harmonic balancer out of the vehicle where I have all of its parts stored and cleaned that up (another 4
minute time limit installation job with sealant on the key slot). I read the service instructions again and noticed it mentioned the crankshaft front seal. I wish I would have thought about that more before I put the engine cover back on. So now I am wondering if I should replace that. Is that something I can do without taking the engine cover back off? I feel like I should replace it before going to all of the trouble of putting this buggy back together!

 

[Hamfisted]

Didn't a new seal come with the gasket kit ? You "can" replace it without removing the cover again, but the crankshaft sticking out there makes it a lot more work. Wrap some tape around the crankshaft to keep from nicking it up. If the valve covers aren't already on I think I'd just pull the cover off again. You can use Super Glue to hold the cover gaskets or valve cover gaskets in place during installation. You're using Oil Resistant sealant right ?



Lisle Seal Removal Tool on Amazon

Permatex Oil Resistant Sealant on Amazon

 

[Fordgirl01]

I am using the sealant the service manual recommended-it’s a black permatex, ultra I think.
I did not get a new seal probably bc I ordered the gaskets separately. I do have a new seal coming as I feel I should replace it. The valve covers are not on yet. I will tape the shaft and attempt to do the seal. If it’s too problematic, I will take the cover off.
Thanks for the advice!

 

[Fordgirl01]

I just noticed your links!
I did look up a seal puller at HF-I will pick one up.
That is the sealant I am using.
Thanks again!

 

[Fordgirl01]

Good stuff! Just don't do what I did and keep the old thicker crank reluctor wheel on if you received a new thinner one with a new crank sprocket. Not using the newer reluctor sprocket in combination with the new (thicker) crank sprocket caused the timing cover to crack on torquing down the cover bolts because of the reluctor wheel protruding out more. Caused a load of pressure on the timing cover against the reluctor wheel and cracked the hell out of it. I spent the next couple weeks trying to find one online, and finally had to go to a junkyard to get a new cover. It's looking good as new with the aluminum spray paint job I did.

Damn it! I was elated how easily I was able to pop the seal out of the cover workout taking it off. My elation quickly turned to horror as I noticed I had done the same thing Ulver had tried to warn me about.
I did not receive a new reluctor wheel with my timing kit and my new crank sprocket matched up to the old one so I don’t think it was thicker. But, somehow I cracked my engine cover where that wheel is. You can even see the tooth marks in the cover. How could this happen if everything was the same thickness as the parts that came off? Is it possible I did not have the reluctor wheel all the way in?
Now I have to find a new cover. Can I use the same seals (they were new when i put them on last week)?
Should I shop for a thinner reluctor wheel to make sure this doesn’t happen again?
This really stinks!

 

[Fordgirl01]

Since I had to move on after the engine cover discovery, I decided to get my roller followers out of the jug of oil I have kept them in and check them out. I kept the one that had fallen off separate (on the valve that ended up being stuck) to make sure I knew which one to look more closely at (top left one in the pics). They all look fine to me and roll freely. The only thing I noticed on the one that was off is a little mark near the hole. Will they be OK to put back on, or is there a reason to get new ones?

 

[Hamfisted]

Can you post a pic of your crank timing chain sprocket, and the reluctor wheel you plan on using ?

 

[Fordgirl01]

The sprockets are already on. They were in the melling kit. I’ll snap a pic the best I can and get a pic of the reluctor wheel (it’s the original-I did not get one in the timing kit).

 

[Hamfisted]

Just wanted to check the crankshaft sprocket you used. But most likely you need the updated stamped steel reluctor wheel.
The part number for the timing cover should be in the upper right corner of the cover.


These two go together ...



5.4 Stamped Steel Reluctor Wheel

 

[Ulver]

Damn it! I was elated how easily I was able to pop the seal out of the cover workout taking it off. My elation quickly turned to horror as I noticed I had done the same thing Ulver had tried to warn me about.
I did not receive a new reluctor wheel with my timing kit and my new crank sprocket matched up to the old one so I don’t think it was thicker. But, somehow I cracked my engine cover where that wheel is. You can even see the tooth marks in the cover. How could this happen if everything was the same thickness as the parts that came off? Is it possible I did not have the reluctor wheel all the way in?
Now I have to find a new cover. Can I use the same seals (they were new when i put them on last week)?
Should I shop for a thinner reluctor wheel to make sure this doesn’t happen again?
This really stinks!

Damnit is right! I'm sorry to hear that it happened to you as well. When it happens it definitely lets know you when you hear that big POP. Yes, you definitely need the thinner reluctor wheel unfortunately. I really wish that they had left it alone and just kept the original crank sprocket design. I just recently saw someone else post the same thing, so that's three people in one month who made the same mistake. ;-(

You know what though, hold off on getting a new timing cover. I have an extra one that was the wrong size for my vehicle that may be a match for you. I really need to get rid of it but I don't want to junk it. If you want take a photo of the entire thing and doing a measurement across and we can see if mine matches. If it does I'll send it to you and all I ask is the shipping cost.

 

[Hamfisted]

Ulver she has a 4V motor in her Navigator. So a 2V or 3V timing cover will not work.

 

[Fordgirl01]

Yes-the 4 valve is what I have. Thank you for the offer!