Compression test 01 Navigator

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Fordgirl01

Fordgirl01

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Just wanted to check the crankshaft sprocket you used. But most likely you need the updated stamped steel reluctor wheel.
The part number for the timing cover should be in the upper right corner of the cover.


These two go together ...
View attachment 70306


5.4 Stamped Steel Reluctor Wheel
I did see a number on my timing cover.
The link you posted for the wheel states it is for a 05-13 navigator. Mine is an 01. I’m trying to find a part number for mine, but this wheel seems to be difficult to search for since it’s called so many different names!
There is one on rock auto that is listed under my make, year and model. It lists 4 alternate part numbers but none of those numbers match up to the one in your link. I will search with those part numbers and see what I can find.
I assume if it states it is stamped steel, that is what I need?
Thanks again guys!
 
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subscribed!

sorry, don't know anything about your reluctor wheel, I have a 3V Navi.
 
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Fordgirl01

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Ulver she has a 4V motor in her Navigator. So a 2V or 3V timing cover will not work.
The numbers on my cover are: XLIE-6C086-AB. When I Google it, this turns up: F75Z-6019-BA. this cover appears to fit an assortment of vehicles according to this site….
Does that seem right?
 

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The numbers on my cover are: XLIE-6C086-AB. When I Google it, this turns up: F75Z-6019-BA. this cover appears to fit an assortment of vehicles according to this site….
Does that seem right?


No . You will have better luck just cleaning yours up and filling in the crack with JB Weld. If you want to replace your cover you're going to have to search for a DOHC 4V cover, and they are much harder to find $$$ . If the crank sprocket you used in the new timing kit looks like the crank sprocket in the picture I posted above, you need the stamped steel reluctor wheel, not your original cast reluctor wheel. Can you post a pic of the crank sprocket currently on your motor ? If it has a lip sticking out flush with the timing chain it is the new style and you need the stamped wheel.




420022_-jpg.70306



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Fordgirl01

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I think i understand what you mean now describing the new sprocket. I will look closer tomorrow after work and get a pic of it. I think you are telling me with the original sprocket, the edge of the chain stuck out a bit further than the sprocket. On the new one with the lip, the sprocket sticks out further than the chain.
Thank you for your patience while I process and finally figure out what you are trying to tell me!!
 
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Fordgirl01

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So now that the lightbulb finally came on….I looked at my sprockets again. I can clearly see what you mean now. The old sprocket (ignore the screws-the old timing components are on my wall now like a trophy) has no lip on it so the raised ring on the back of the original reluctor wheel must have nicely nestled right in there.
The new sprocket with its troublesome protruding lip did not let the wheel nestle and defiantly shoved it right through my apparently somewhat rare timing cover.
So the Amazon link (for the reluctor wheel) you sent me that claimed it would not fit my 01 is the one I need-correct? Amazon just thinks it won’t fit because it’s made for the newer timing components (which my 01 now has) I assume?
I plan to attempt to fix the cover since it’s looking like I won’t even be able to find a new one even if I wanted (used ones seem pretty hard to find as well). I will prep it properly-I assume I should “V” out the crack a bit so the epoxy has a place to go? I looked at a bunch of epoxy and the JB Weld pro (with the steel reinforcement) looks to have the highest strength. Is this a good choice? 34BF808C-5E63-46A3-8655-53D675C94839.jpeg019DDA68-17C1-430A-8EBC-9F55741FBCE8.jpeg9F866FFD-627F-47A9-8ECC-93C21C92A2EE.jpeg90E8A601-877C-40B7-A203-88F41F0615EB.jpeg
 
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Fordgirl01

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I got the engine cover all patched up with JB Weld pro and let it sit for the week to make sure it was completely cured. My new reluctor wheel came so that’s installed along with the new front seal. I put the cover back on this weekend-no snapping or cracking sounds, so that’s a plus! The crankshaft damper installed without too much trouble (I got the install tool-glad I did). I bolted the power steering pump back on and connected the electrical connectors that were on the engine cover.
I retrieved more parts out of the vehicle where I had them stored. I remembered when I took it apart it was missing one of the idler pulleys. I ordered a new kit (pulleys, tensioner and belt), but I am not having any luck finding a bolt for the idler pulley that was missing. Is that something I can just take to an auto parts store and have matched up? I have the one for the other pulley. I can’t find a part number or a bolt no matter how I word a Google search!
 
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Fordgirl01

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You have one pulley bolt, but you just need another one? Do you have the big washer that goes with it ?


Ford 5.4L Idler Pulley Bolt


Ford Idler Pulley Bolt on Amazon (Pricey)



View attachment 70466




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I did find that bolt, but this is what threw me!
79B11D23-873F-499E-92BE-4EF182168FC0.pngD9AD4586-1AB0-4582-9FEE-2A87E54D3C91.png
But then this site says it will fit. This is the first site I’ve seen that said it will fit! The pulleys on my 04 are narrower than the 01 so I was afraid the bolt would be for that one. I guess there’s only one way to find out! It’s not a part that will break the bank. I do not have the second bolt or the big washer. I’ll let you know if it was the right one. Thank you

C308CC84-BEF9-4171-A581-2E1FC5C18EFC.png
 
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Yesterday I decided to attempt to put the roller followers back on. I had forgotten what a total PIA they were. So far-I did get one on! The second one I was trying to get I heard something fall. I was horrified to find the 2 little spring retainers had popped out. Of course I couldn’t find them and I only have one spare. The valve did not fall (I’m pretty sure I can still feel the stem-I can’t see down in there but I’m going to look with the camera). I put one of those strong little rare earth magnets on the top of the valve for now. When the new retainers arrive, I assume the smart thing will be to put some air pressure in there to hold up the valve while I try to get those tiny SOBs back on?

Is there any trick to getting the rollers back in? I was feeling pretty good about my progress until yesterday! It’s pretty discouraging to think in a matter of seconds I could be back to tearing everything apart again to retrieve a valve.
 

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Just turning the crank to get the cam lobes to the least lift position as you do each rocker arm. Yes air pressure into the cylinder you’re working on. No rocker arms on that cylinder till you get those keepers back in place. Do you have a tool to compress the valve spring ? And the adapter for the spark plug hole ( 14mm ) ?
 
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Fordgirl01

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Yes I have the spring tool and the spark plug hole adapter. Would it be OK to keep it pressurized each time I am trying to get the rollers on just in case I loose keepers again? I should have more spring keepers in a few days. I won’t touch it until then!

Is it ok to leave the air hooked to it and what sort of pressure should I set the compressor at?

Thank you!
 

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I would think 100 psi or so would be plenty. Make sure the valve's not moving while you're trying to compress the spring though. Typical compression stroke pressure is 150-200 but you don't need that much just to keep the valve closed. It's really pretty rare that those things pop out like that. So hope you don't have any more troubles with them.
 
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