I agree completely with everything BMW2FORD says above. Even if the 80+ mph problem is somewhere else, you want to start by making sure you know that your wheels and tires aren't causing problems.
Remember that many of these vehicles are sold to Gulf State Countries where they are routinely driven in the triple digits. The Drive Trains are designed and manufactured to run at those speeds....however, the wheels and tires are frequently different for those conditions and markets. So, wheels and tires are most likely your problem.
More vibration analysis than you probably want to learn:
If the problem persists after you know that the wheels and tires are trouble free and properly balanced, then you're into other driveline issues. First, if you have a 4x4 and you're driving in "S" or some other A4WD mode, change to a 2wd mode, and see if the vibration changes or goes away. The front drive systems are not balanced as rigorously as the rear. Keep in mind that depending on your rear end ratio the Trans Output Shaft/Transfer case/driveshaft/pinion are all turning 3+ times as fast as the axles/wheels...If you have an ear for frequencies, you can tell the difference. For me, I "feel" the wheel tire issues at ~1200 axle/wheel rpm/Hz (59 years old); however, at 2500 engine rpm, in 10th gear, the driveline is turning at nearly 4000 rpm. 4000Hz is pretty clearly audible for most of us. A driveline issue will be singing to you at those revs. Pull up a 1000 Hz and 4000 Hz tone on your computer, and listen to them to get a feel for the frequency ranges. Keep in mind that the "timbre" is very different from what you hear in the truck. The amplitude is what annoys you; but, it only grows loud enough (large enough amplitude) to bother you at specific natural frequency ranges.
Back in the bad old 55mph days, I used to have to balance the drivelines on everything I drove to allow more rapid transit. It was pretty easy for solid rear axle vehicles. I'm not sure I would want to wind this 6000 lb IRS behemoth up to 80-100 mph while on jack stands to check for vibes..... But, there are probably some speed shops around that would be up to the task....If you end up this far down the bunny hole, don't automatically assume the out of balance condition is from any particular component. Don't start replacing stuff, just balance what is there. You never really find out what part(s) are out, you just balance the whole rotating system from the drive shaft. I used to use SS hose clamps. They worked great. My '86 Mustang LX still has the clamps on the drive shaft that I put on it in 1986.