Need some advice for pulling the coils on my daughters '15 EL.

[showme]

My daughter's '15 EL 3.5 is throwing codes indicating the number 1, 4 and sometimes 6 cylinders are misfiring, so I've ordered new coils and plugs. I've replaced coils and plugs in other vehicles we own, but after doing a little research on the expeditions, I've been finding reports of the coils and boots being tough to get off sometimes. From posts I've found on this forum, I've found that some folks are spraying them down with wd40 and pb blaster, but they're still having a hard time removing them.

Has anyone found a reliable method for getting these out without spending hours fighting them? The other vehicles I've changed these out on were relatively simple jobs. I'm not sure if it's the boot that's the problem or if there's something about the seal at the engine contact point where the coil is sticking, but it sounds like quite a few people have had this problem. Any and all ideas and comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Lee

 

[max78]

Just got my 3.5 not too long ago so I cant answer to the remove question. I would say be careful what you spray on there as it can react with the rubber on the coils. Also, its VERY uncommon for coils to go out, I would toss the plugs in with the old coils and see if you can save some money.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

My daughter's '15 EL 3.5 is throwing codes indicating the number 1, 4 and sometimes 6 cylinders are misfiring, so I've ordered new coils and plugs. I've replaced coils and plugs in other vehicles we own, but after doing a little research on the expeditions, I've been finding reports of the coils and boots being tough to get off sometimes. From posts I've found on this forum, I've found that some folks are spraying them down with wd40 and pb blaster, but they're still having a hard time removing them.

Has anyone found a reliable method for getting these out without spending hours fighting them? The other vehicles I've changed these out on were relatively simple jobs. I'm not sure if it's the boot that's the problem or if there's something about the seal at the engine contact point where the coil is sticking, but it sounds like quite a few people have had this problem. Any and all ideas and comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Lee

Several suggestions:

I bought a new 2015 Expedition Limited 4x4, and changed the spark plugs myself the first time at about 50,*** miles. Although I used top tier fuel and no towing, the plugs looked like they had 150,*** miles on them.

The spark plug boots were very difficult to dislodge and remove, but I was able to do all six with no damage. I used a lot of pulling and tugging, and several plastic trim removal tools. There is limited space on a few to twist them, but twisting back and forth while pulling the coil assembly helped remove them.

After removing each spark plug coil, use compressed air to blow out the spark plug tube prior to plug removal.

Use only OEM Motorcaft parts from a known source (avoid counterfeit). https://fordauthority.com/2022/10/ford-files-trademark-infringement-lawsuit-over-counterfeit-parts/

I would replace the spark plugs, coils if you want, and also the small rubber insulator at the bottom of the coil (which goes over the spark plug insulator). I am not sure if new Motorcraft coils come with this insulator - which is also sold separately.

Use dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug boot, and at the top boot seal where it mates with the valve cover (you will see where when you remove the first coil).

The spark plug electric connectors at the coil are very fragile and small. Carefully pull the red tab back and gentle release the locking tab, to remove the connector. They break easily.

Use a magnetic spark plug socket to remove and install the spark plugs.

There are several times you will have to remove or move items out of the way when you remove the spark plugs. The items will be obvious.

Take your time and be prepared to be patient.

 

[BigOleFordFan]

Also, its VERY uncommon for coils to go out, I would toss the plugs in with the old coils and see if you can save some money.

Well, assuming they haven't been changed before, I would have to disagree with this statement, because after 10 years, anything can & will eventually fail, especially electrical components that handle high voltages.

Therefore, I would consider this one of those "while your in there" jobs, and just replace everything, because if the coils fail after you've replaced the plugs, then you gotta do almost the same amount of work all over again to replace just them...

And as already stated, use only OEM parts, as aftermarket ones have been known to cause serious issues, and most of all, take your time & be patient

 

[max78]

Well, assuming they haven't been changed before, I would have to disagree with this statement, because after 10 years, anything can & will eventually fail, especially electrical components that handle high voltages.

Therefore, I would consider this one of those "while your in there" jobs, and just replace everything, because if the coils fail after you've replaced the plugs, then you gotta do almost the same amount of work all over again to replace just them...

And as already stated, use only OEM parts, as aftermarket ones have been known to cause serious issues, and most of all, take your time & be patient

I mean, if you want to turn a $30 job into a $430 job because you don't want to go back to the top of the engine to swap a coil out in 10 minutes . . . Spark plugs are one of, if not the most neglected consumables on cars. I'm all for a water pump or some hard to get to part if your in there, but burning $400 on coils for the sake of it seems a bit much. Now replacing the rubber boots, absolutely! They are probably due for replacement, you can buy them for $5 each.

As other have said, go with factory coils. Going with aftermarket can lead to serious tail chasing.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

My daughter's '15 EL 3.5 is throwing codes indicating the number 1, 4 and sometimes 6 cylinders are misfiring, so I've ordered new coils and plugs. I've replaced coils and plugs in other vehicles we own, but after doing a little research on the expeditions, I've been finding reports of the coils and boots being tough to get off sometimes. From posts I've found on this forum, I've found that some folks are spraying them down with wd40 and pb blaster, but they're still having a hard time removing them.

Has anyone found a reliable method for getting these out without spending hours fighting them? The other vehicles I've changed these out on were relatively simple jobs. I'm not sure if it's the boot that's the problem or if there's something about the seal at the engine contact point where the coil is sticking, but it sounds like quite a few people have had this problem. Any and all ideas and comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Lee

How did your work turn out?