BakerEdition
EF Chaplain
Anyone use one of these? I dont see what it can do just connected the positive and negative posts on the battery?
Voltage stabilizer
- Thread starter BakerEdition
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tonydiv
technical advisor
Sounds like snake oil to me....
Now, I've used external voltage regulators for marine applications, but they hook up with more than 2 wires.
Now, I've used external voltage regulators for marine applications, but they hook up with more than 2 wires.
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BakerEdition
EF Chaplain
Thanks Tony for the input....I know there are many scams out there...thats why we ask the questions....last thing I want to do is offer someone....another bowl of wonton soup..LMAO...
Thermo
technical advisor
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Baker, what are you attempting to stabilize the voltage on? Do you need to filter the input power to a radio to get rid of alternator noise, remove the alternator noise for a TV? I can provide an alternate option to that "voltage stabilizer". Like what Tony said, it is snake oil. All that it really more than likely is is a big capacitor and placing it across the battery don't do squat for you. It would be like adding a straw in parallel to a fire hose. Sure, it may help flow more water, but what it is adding is very small in relation.
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BakerEdition
EF Chaplain
Thermo...I was just sniffin around and saw one these....actually I was thinking of ramping up the alternator a bit....I have a 130amp and see the build them for 200amp service... I'm not running a sound system....but i am running the vehicle accessories and my computer gear... emergency lights,etc....I have been noticing on my Edge that voltage is dropping to 13.4 to 13.8 when under a load....have read articles bout the vehicle computer equipment getting enough voltage or its stars doing strange stuff....just trying to head something off at the pass...I think the 200am alternator would do the trick...it just needs to be able to handle the equipment when slowing down and at idle with out a big drop and things going dim...or the engine electronics starving....
Thermo
technical advisor
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Baker, give up on the voltage stabilizer and go with the bigger alternator. That is the better choice. Don't forget to upgrade the "Big 3" wires. That will also help to ensure maximum voltage to your electronic goodies.
Something that you may want to consider is installing say a 0.5 farad capacitor on your strobes. Because of the cycling power that the strobes produce, the capacitor (due to being mounted right at the input of the strobe power supply, this is key) will absorb the power spikes and keep the rest of the truck on a more even keel. Essentially, when the strobe go to pulse, the power draw on the system goes up, causing the voltage to drop. Due to having the capacitor there at the input of the strobe power supply, it will initially feed the strobe power supply. Then as the load of the strobes goes away, the capacitor now needs to recharge and it will recharge some. So what you have is the capacitor charging and discharging opposite the strobes and a constant current draw to the capacitor/strobe complex. This will save on spikes going to your other electronics.
Something that you may want to consider is installing say a 0.5 farad capacitor on your strobes. Because of the cycling power that the strobes produce, the capacitor (due to being mounted right at the input of the strobe power supply, this is key) will absorb the power spikes and keep the rest of the truck on a more even keel. Essentially, when the strobe go to pulse, the power draw on the system goes up, causing the voltage to drop. Due to having the capacitor there at the input of the strobe power supply, it will initially feed the strobe power supply. Then as the load of the strobes goes away, the capacitor now needs to recharge and it will recharge some. So what you have is the capacitor charging and discharging opposite the strobes and a constant current draw to the capacitor/strobe complex. This will save on spikes going to your other electronics.
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BakerEdition
EF Chaplain
Thermo, Have no strobes...all LEDS...do understand what you are saying though with the strobes...the 3 wires you mention are those off the back of the alternator?
Chrismdean09
Full Access Members
BIg
The Big 3 is awesome do it... you get 1/0 power cable three pieces and you run one from your engine block to the chasis of the vehicle. Then one from your alternator power output to you positive battery terminal. then one from negative battery terminal to you chasis. Basically what it does is make you alternator not have to work as hard since there is less resistance to pushing power through the bigger cable. If your looking at high out put alternators i would use MechMan. They make some amazing alternators and i have had mine for 2 years now and been abusing it with 4000 watts of stereo equipment. You could also just run another battery or a yellow top/ or kinetic
The Big 3 is awesome do it... you get 1/0 power cable three pieces and you run one from your engine block to the chasis of the vehicle. Then one from your alternator power output to you positive battery terminal. then one from negative battery terminal to you chasis. Basically what it does is make you alternator not have to work as hard since there is less resistance to pushing power through the bigger cable. If your looking at high out put alternators i would use MechMan. They make some amazing alternators and i have had mine for 2 years now and been abusing it with 4000 watts of stereo equipment. You could also just run another battery or a yellow top/ or kinetic
dougmcp
Full Access Members
I wouldn't worry too much about the voltage drop to 13.4v, that is the normal float voltage of a 12v smart charger (2.25v per cell). Anything over 14.7v (2.45v per cell) will cause the battery to off gas.
Vehicle electronics are designed to run as low as 11.5v without issues.
I would install an ammeter (perm or temp) to give you an idea of what your total amperage draw is.
IMO a 130 amp alternator should handle just about anything you can throw at it. If you are really having a problem, the solution IMO would be to upgrade the battery to a higher amperage, upgrade the cables to the battery to at least 2ga, reduce the size of your alternator pulley to provide more amperage at idle or add a second battery.
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BakerEdition
EF Chaplain
Doug, I like the idea of a smaller pulley which would put out more amps at a lower speed...any effects to it at a higher speed? I have an interstate battery in there right now..which was put in shortly before I got the truck..I will have to look at the amperage on it though...this 3 wire up grade everyone is talking about...is this a kit you can purchase or something you make...
dougmcp
Full Access Members
These vehicles don't rev that high so I would doubt there would be any ill effects from a smaller pulley.
My preference in cables has always been to stay away from automotive cables as they have a very low strand count and are generally poor conductors. For high amperage situations I always buy welding cable and either crimp or solder my own ends on. You can buy cable and ends from any welding supply or even a forklift dealer and either one will make the cables for you if you are not inclined to DIY.
Thermo
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Doug, I have to disagree with you on installing a larger battery. All that is going to do is make it so the truck lasts longer before the battery is depleted. If the voltage is dropping when you are using loads and the engine is running, the alternator is being overloaded. Plain and simple. Sure you can install a smaller pulley on the alternator, but this is something that needs to be done with caution. Some research into the max speed of the alternator would be needed to determine how small of a pulley you can go with. Something about high metal particulate inside the engine bay from the alternator exploding just doesn't sound good to me.
Baker, the Big 3 wires are:
-Wire from the alternator to the one post on the starter solenoid (or you can run a new wire to the battery itself)
-ground wire between the battery and the body of the truck
-ground wire between the engine and the body of the truck
Baker, the Big 3 wires are:
-Wire from the alternator to the one post on the starter solenoid (or you can run a new wire to the battery itself)
-ground wire between the battery and the body of the truck
-ground wire between the engine and the body of the truck
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BakerEdition
EF Chaplain
Thermo thanks...85k on the original alternator under police use with a shit load of lights..its more than likely just a little tired..I figured time for a new one and do a bit of an upgrade...Might even throw a fresh battery in...saw this on e-bay..your thoughts? thanks for the cable info.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD...odel:Expedition|Make:Ford&hash=item53e50d334c
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD...odel:Expedition|Make:Ford&hash=item53e50d334c
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dougmcp
Full Access Members
The most common failure in an alternator is the bridge rectifier which converts AC to DC to charge the battery or run accessories and other than a little brush wear there is almost nothing to go wrong.
The most common pulleys on Ford vehicles are the 6-groove 2-7/16, 2-3/8 and 2-1/4 inch pulleys, by reducing the pulley size to 2" or 1-7/8" your alternator will start producing power sooner and produce more power. The cost of these is around $20.
Component failure from overspeed conditions depends on the RPMs you take your engine to, my Expy rarely gets over 5K so it is not a concern.
Battery voltage doesn't drop until you hit 12.73v which is considered a full charge. Until you hit that number you are running on the alternator.
I agree with Thermo that a larger battery is not the answer, it just guarantees that you can start the vehicle if you run accessories with the engine off.
The most common pulleys on Ford vehicles are the 6-groove 2-7/16, 2-3/8 and 2-1/4 inch pulleys, by reducing the pulley size to 2" or 1-7/8" your alternator will start producing power sooner and produce more power. The cost of these is around $20.
Component failure from overspeed conditions depends on the RPMs you take your engine to, my Expy rarely gets over 5K so it is not a concern.
Battery voltage doesn't drop until you hit 12.73v which is considered a full charge. Until you hit that number you are running on the alternator.
I agree with Thermo that a larger battery is not the answer, it just guarantees that you can start the vehicle if you run accessories with the engine off.
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BakerEdition
EF Chaplain
Doug...I agree on the RPMs...mine rarely ever gets to that point...I baby the shit out if...but get my foot into when I need to....just worry about blowing spark plugs..LOL...I was always told the battery is only there to start the truck...the alternator runs everything else...
