Don't confuse the Ko2's with the KO's. They are completely different tires.
I had Ko's on the expedition and was quite pleased with them. Winter traction was the only place where they had any issues at all.
That being said, I have KO2's on the Excursion and couldn't be happier with them. Last...
It's usually an easy fix. The mirror just needs to be pushed back in the other direction. Manually push the mirror glass back in the opposite direction until it is re aligned. You will hear some pops as the gears jump, but don't worry. It may take a bit of playing around to get it centered up...
A good programmer will make those shifts more snappy. Snappy shifts mean less slipping. Less slipping means a cooler trans. A cooler trans lives a longer life.
Those soccer mom super smooth shifts that Ford programmed in to the trans are a problem for anyone who tows.
The holy grail for sailors and boaters alike is to find a way to run the a/c on board without having to plug in or run the genset. Currently, there just isn't a practical way to do that without an impossibly large battery bank and a huge inverter. You can't get enough solar panels on the...
I've had great success with drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads from Brakemotive.
Had them on the Expy, and have them on the Excursion and my brother's Spotrac.
Rotors may be made in China, but you'll be hard pressed to find some that aren't. Even the AC Delco.
I'd bang on that spring with the mallet and then grab different pieces of the spring, mount, etc and see if you can locate where the rattling is coming from. You could wedge a screwdriver in some of the tight areas if needed. You will eventually find where it's coming from.
Sometimes the sway bar mount bushings can make that noise. These are the ones that mount it to the frame, not he links at either end.
Squirt a bit of WD40 on those bushings and see if the noise changes or goes away.
Then spray start spraying every rubber bushing you see. if none of them stop...
All those thins that you said still work, door locks, etc., are controlled by the GEM (generic electronic module). So it sounds like the GEM is still ok. Is your code reader self powered or does it use power from the truck? I'm trying to find out if there is power to the diagnostic port.
If you do any off roading, run that hose up and then zip tie it so that the top of the tube faces down. This will create an air trap that will help keep water from getting in the axle tube.
I'm pretty sure that all the big tool makers, (Mac SnapOn and Matco) all make a tapered socket with splines on the inside that you literally pound on to the lug nut so that you can remove it. They work best when used with an impact gun.
Once you have one off, you can match it up at the parts...
I'm assuming that you have a 97 or 98.
I just ditched the entire vacuum system and installed a 4x4posi-lok cable. That way I decide when the front axle is engaged.
If you really want to keep the stock system, make sure that those vac lines aren't full of debris, that could mess up the trigger...
I feel your pain. The little plastic handle that reclines the back seat on the Excursion is $47. Haven't been able to find it anywhere else for any less. Going to start calling junk yards on my next day off.
I would never waste my time or money turning a rotor. (and I used to own a tune up and brake shop). I mean what makes anyone think that making that rotor THINNER is going to keep it from warping in the future?
I've had great success with Brakemotive kits. The kit includes drilled and slotted...
Issues:
I'm pretty sure that the compressor isn't rated for exterior use.
Is that a 12v compressor?
The tank drain will have to be at the lowest point or it will just fill with water over time.
I think that you would be far better off getting their small tankless compressor, mounting it...
Also, maybe a bit of recon is needed here. I suggest that you quietly observe your wife while she is driving. She may be one of those brake draggers. It happens.
You need 2 working keys in order to program a 3rd.
If you have the key # from the little metal tag that originally comes with the keys, the dealer can cut you a key from that number. Look in the manual case, that's where they usually end up. The dealer will still have to program it for you...
If there isn't a manual cable to control that front axle disconnect, I would assume that the previous owner just locked the front axle in 4wd. It won't harm anything, other than your mileage, and the truck won't actually be in 4wd unless you shift the transfer case.
Those control the vacuum motor that actuates the front axle disconnect. Is there a red knob under the dash? If so, it's a '4x4 posi lok' that actuates the axle disconnect manually.
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