200 amp alt?

[GAINMOB]

i here you THERMO...that's prompting me to upgrade my stereo wiring too...something clips to the current wiring harness about half way to the alt before going down to starter...not the fuse (will the fuse need upgrading to bigger amp too?) but some type of quick disconnect...ok...one more and last email to ebay seller about the diodes...more to come

 

[Thermo]

Ross, as long as you tap the power for the stereo off on the same side as the alternator, no need to upgrade the megafuses (these are rated at 175A). Now, if you are planning on running the stereo power through the megafuses, then, yes, they will need to be upgraded.

 

[SOLISIMO]

You want a real alternator look into powermaster. Thats what I ran in my race car.

 

[Canadian Expy]

I'm running Powermaster love it .here's your part #48305 it's 225/140 amp and they come with a dyno of the amps and it's always higher
Had one before used it for years with big stereo and offroad lights worked great. I've had rebuilt upgrades never seem to last very long

 

[GAINMOB]

ok...so i installed the 200 amp alt that i got...now...when i turn my left turn signal on...the lights to my overhead monitor blinks as well...never happened before...any thoughts???

 

[Thermo]

Ross, that is a new one. Just to ask a silly question, when your headlights are on, do the headlights flash with the left turn signal? Where is the power and ground being tapped off of for the left monitor? I have a feeling if the headlights don't blink, then your problem lies in the wiring for the monitor. I would be leaning more towards the positive wire for the monitor, but, finding out the power points will help out.

 

[GAINMOB]

ok...so all types of electrical surge stuff is going on...my headlights work as normal and dont blink...the monitor seemed to have stopped blinking...NOW...my interior lights wont turn off with the auto dimmer once i get out...i have to turn off the interior lights/courtesy when they wouldnt turn off when i activated the alarm...lights dont blink anymore when the horn sounds when i set the alarm either...

all i did was swap alts...speaking of...i have a bolt that i dont remember where i pull from when swapping the alts...and i dont see where it would go...i checked for an hour trying to find where i pulled it from...i'll post pics of it tomorrow

 

[GAINMOB]

THERMO...any advise on the following directions?

1. First measure the length of cable you will need from the alternator main charging post to the ANL Fuse Holder. Use crimpers or Vise Grips to crimp the copper ring terminals to the wire and install the heat shrink over these connectors.

2. Next measure the length of cable you will need to connect the fuse holder to the positive post on the battery. Use crimpers or Vise Grips to crimp the copper ring terminals to the wire and install the heat shrink over these connectors.

3. Complete your wiring by bolting your connectors to the alternator, fuse holder, and battery.

4. Next install the new 4 gauge cable in addition to your original main charging wire.
Stack the new cable together with the original charging terminal at the alternator post.

5. Now your alternator is fully protected from short-circuits.

is this overkill? or should i just keep it with the 4 guage only and the current factory in-line fuse?

 

[Thermo]

I would keep it simple. Only use the 4 gauge wire from the alt to the fuses. Asf or the rest, it sounds pretty good. THe only thing that I could possibly recommend is if you have access to a propane torch or 80 watt soldering iron, you can solder the wire on to the lugs. This will make a slightly better connection vice simply crimping the lug on. But, if you don't have them, then don't worry about it.

As for your other electrical issues, I would do a quick check of what your alternator is outputting. It is somewhat sounding like it is outputting too much voltage leading to things failing. But, I am taking a stab in the dark about this.

 

[Thermo]

As for your extra bolt, you should have 1 bolt on the top of the alternator and 2 from the bottom of the alternator (may be vice versa). So, you have a total of 3 bolts holding the alternator in place. If it is a smaller bolt, it may be from the right of the alternator. It seems to me that it makes it much easier to remove a bracket over there when removing the alternator.

 

[GAINMOB]

photobucket finally downloaded from my phone...here's the bolt

i tried going on some sites to get the breakdown of the alternator and screws...no luck