2004 Exp EB 4x4 question

[xchosen]

So I love this old beast, it has 376k miles and runs nicely still. I have considered a new vehicle many times but I just don't want a payment. Financially I'm good and I know anything I put into this guy now I won't see any return but that doesn't matter.

If you intended to keep your ex going past the 400k mark what would you do? New tires, bushings, shocks?

I am not a mechanic and I don't intend to do the work myself.

 

[Steve Sprinkle]

My 2004 had 220K miles on it before it was rear-ended and totaled (bent frame). Following a routine maintenance schedule kept it running beautifully and it was my daily driver. I've spent more on maintenance on my 2015 (New shocks, sun roof issues, etc.) than I ever did on my 2004.

 

[Vincent Vega]

With that many miles, you should be the one lecturing everyone else on how to maintain an Expedition, but here is what I would tell you. Just good maintenance. Good synthetic oil (i.e. Pennzoil Platinum or similar) and Motorcraft oil filter every 7500 mi or less. Fuel filter every 30k. Service transmission, trans case, power steering, coolant, front/rear diffs every 60k just to name some of the critical service items. Use Motorcraft replacement parts.
Other than that you don't need to do anything unless it is having problems. Speaking of which, the problems I have had are the A/C condensor, intake manifold coolant leak, and a startup rattle (from the front of the engine) from broken timing guides. These are common problem areas for our trucks to watch out for and fix asap if they happen.
One last thing: replace the brake fluid. I did mine recently and it was really bad. Should have done it years ago. The first few years I owned mine, I had mechanics do the brakes, and they cut corners by not bleeding the brakes. So the brake fluid never got replaced at all. Your mechanic(s) might have done the same, and if so, it is now over 15 years old and needs replacement. Good luck.

 

[xchosen]

You would think I would be the go to guy but I follow simple rules.

Garage kept
regular oil changes (Full Syn only)

and I'm nice to it. No really I make sure it stays clean. Otherwise I don't do anything. Nothing else has been done to this thing. Breaks have been done but almost everything else original.

I kinda planned to keep it until it died. Take the plates off and walk away, but it's been so good to me I think I should give it some special love.

 

[Hamfisted]

Lower ball joints all the way around. Inner tie rods on the steering rack. Heavy duty rear sway bar ( Belltech 5550 ). Change the coolant every couple years. Keep wax on it.
Deep tranny oil pan ( PML Aluminum ). That's about it.

 

[xchosen]

Why the deep tranny oil pan?

 

[Ellison Brown III]

With that many miles on it I am surprised no one mentioned a timing chain, tensioners, and cam phasers. I’m not too far behind you; 2004 Eddie Bauer with approximately 305k.

My 2016 has racked up some miles in the last 4yrs. I’m a Gov’t contractor. Spend a of time in my truck; 152k. I normally do my own maintenance when home. If I happen to be at a military installation with a craft shop I do it there (lifts, toolboxes, tire balancing machine, wheel alignment rack, etc.). Unfortunately, there are those times I am limited to the local dealers. Not a fan of their maintenance practices.

Anyway… with that many miles I’d take my maintenance practices a step beyond fluid, and filter, changes. It’s time to pay attention to components now.

 

[BlackCoffee]

I would look underneath. If you want to keep it, check for rust and corrosion. Rocker panels, inner and outer, rust from the inside out. By time you notice it is too late. The good news is that they can be replaced and I think they are still available. Also, look at all the cross members and assess them for reinforcement. Finally, the seams at the back between the bumper and rear wheel wells are sandwiched and spot welded. If they get water in between they mushroom.

As for mechanical, I agree with Hamfisted. Upper and lower ball joints, upper come with the control arm. These are cheap and your boots have probably deteriorated and no longer hold grease. Tie rods if they have never been done. Since you take the hubs off to do the ball joints, you should replace the struts. You can get a good pair for the front end for about $160.

Those are the things I have seen on my 2003 EB going on 275K.

 

[Frank Swygert]

A deep trans oil pan holds more fluid, and more fluid means it runs a bit cooler, and the fluid doesn't wear out as fast. I don't think I'd go with a larger pan, but a larger cooler -- especially if you tow heavy loads a lot. If you don't have a trans fluid cooler or have a small one, I'd use a tow package cooler or a larger aftermarket cooler about the same size. Cooler trans fluid means it lasts longer, and the trans lasts longer.

 

[Lee_H]

375K plus miles.... most of my vehicles would be a pile of rust at that time. Salty roads at winter are not friendly to steel (be it frames, bridges or rebar). So frame and electrical issues top my list on long term vehicles. I'm have engine issues on my 2003 with 236k miles on it. If you have no problems with the electric (corroded connections) or rusted sections then stock up on major parts. If the four wheel drive fails can you live with that? Is replacing the transmission going to kill the vehicle? Engine issues that may be harder to deal with. Stupid stuff like a leaky gas tank or failed emergency/ parking brake parts that are increasingly harder to fix. Instead of replacing the vehicle maybe staying one step ahead of the big stuff is going to help keep your favorite mechanical friend alive.