2008 Ford Expedition XLT - 3rd AC compressor in 4 years

[07navi]

Moisture is the enemy but that's what evacuating takes care of...…..or supposed to.

 

[rjdelp7]

Find a new mechanic. Buy a compressor with a warranty. The evaporator and condenser are cheap. Not a bad idea to change them. When the system is vacuumed, the moisture turns to steam and is released.

 

[rjdelp7]

Find a new mechanic. Buy a compressor with a warranty. The accumulator and condenser are cheap. Not a bad idea to change them. When the system is vacuumed, the moisture turns to steam and is released.

 

[Boose]

Find a new mechanic. Buy a compressor with a warranty. The evaporator and condenser are cheap. Not a bad idea to change them. When the system is vacuumed, the moisture turns to steam and is released.

Most compressor warranties are dependent on the condenser and evaporator both being changed. any debris in the system from a component failure introduces a cycle of repeated parts replacement. Make sure all was replaced.

 

[TobyU]

Need to replace the accumulator since you are having repeated issues.
HAVE to replace orifice tube too. (really cheap like $6)


Then 45 minute pump down with good vacuum pump.

Then you need gauges on it when it is charged up to make sure there are no issues.

You could have had a restricted orifice tube (very common) and the comp would be kicking off on high side pressure over-pressure. Not good for it or the lines etc.

Only way you can sometimes tell is the jerk it puts on engine when idling when it kicks back on. More than normal but to most they even think it's low on charge since it is cycling.

You need so see quickly equalizing pressures after you turn off comp and the low side has to suck down very quickly (like 3-5 seconds) as the high side goes up to around 210-255 or so (very dependent on outside temp).

It should also not cycle much at all.
The comp should stay on at idle and fan on high in max position and stay on all the time.

When you slowly raise rpms to 1500-2000 the low side should suck down lower but not go below 22-24 or so as it will kick off around 18-22.
At idle the low side should be around 28-35 but under 40 or you are getting overcharged.

Cycling a lot is bad on the comp and clutch.

The last issue could be the condenser. They can get debris clogged in them and some don't or won't flush out well or at all.
Dual path is very common but you rarely get high side restrictions from condensers. Usually if one is messed up the efficiency is bad and maybe high side a bit higher but not kicking off on pressure switch. The inside duct temp is higher than it should be and cooling suffers.

They are typically 80-125 at local parts stores and even cheaper on ebay or get a used one from junk yard as long as the system has refrig in it--but let's not discuss that. Lol

Seeing what the gauges are doing is critical.

 

[07navi]

Need to replace the accumulator since you are having repeated issues.
HAVE to replace orifice tube too. (really cheap like $6)


Then 45 minute pump down with good vacuum pump.

Then you need gauges on it when it is charged up to make sure there are no issues.

You could have had a restricted orifice tube (very common) and the comp would be kicking off on high side pressure over-pressure. Not good for it or the lines etc.

Only way you can sometimes tell is the jerk it puts on engine when idling when it kicks back on. More than normal but to most they even think it's low on charge since it is cycling.

You need so see quickly equalizing pressures after you turn off comp and the low side has to suck down very quickly (like 3-5 seconds) as the high side goes up to around 210-255 or so (very dependent on outside temp).

It should also not cycle much at all.
The comp should stay on at idle and fan on high in max position and stay on all the time.

When you slowly raise rpms to 1500-2000 the low side should suck down lower but not go below 22-24 or so as it will kick off around 18-22.
At idle the low side should be around 28-35 but under 40 or you are getting overcharged.

Cycling a lot is bad on the comp and clutch.

The last issue could be the condenser. They can get debris clogged in them and some don't or won't flush out well or at all.
Dual path is very common but you rarely get high side restrictions from condensers. Usually if one is messed up the efficiency is bad and maybe high side a bit higher but not kicking off on pressure switch. The inside duct temp is higher than it should be and cooling suffers.

They are typically 80-125 at local parts stores and even cheaper on ebay or get a used one from junk yard as long as the system has refrig in it--but let's not discuss that. Lol

Seeing what the gauges are doing is critical.

I think these trucks have an expansion valve instead of an orifice tube. I cleaned the orifice tube in my Excursion though and it worked fine.

 

[TobyU]

I think these trucks have an expansion valve instead of an orifice tube. I cleaned the orifice tube in my Excursion though and it worked fine.

Isn't his in 08? There should be just like traditional Fords I have an orifice tube up near the firewall going into the evaporator. I think most of the forwards in the rear air had an expansion valve for the rear but it really doesn't matter one way or the other. If it has an orifice to change it. If expansion valve don't worry about it until you diagnose an actual problem but they don't clog up like orifice tubes do.

 

[TobyU]

Most compressor warranties are dependent on the condenser and evaporator both being changed. any debris in the system from a component failure introduces a cycle of repeated parts replacement. Make sure all was replaced.

Let's be careful about our terminology and accuracy. The evaporator is not an item that you replace unless yours leaks. I know of no warranties that mention anything about evaporator replacement.
The accumulator and often called an accumulator drier which typically has a desiccant bag inside is the part that is often required to be replaced with a compressor for the warranty. Also many times the orifice tube is required for warranty but that's always a good idea anytime you have a compressor failure and even a good idea on any older system that's never been opened up. Might as well replace it to get the gunk off the screen while you have the system charge out.

They will sometimes called at the accumulator or receiver drier also. Since it has a desiccant bag in it it can also be considered a dryer since it serves as that purpose.
The funny part is most vehicles have another dryer in the liquid line but they never talk of this being replaced for warranty.

Probably because it's hard to do and not as commonly reproduce by aftermarket companies and they figure the same thing can be accomplished by replacing the accumulator and they can sell more parts and make more money.

So for warranty purposes it is almost always the accumulator and or the orifice tube.
I have I have never seen a warranty that mentions anything or requires the evaporator core to be replaced.
It doesn't have small passages in it that get clogged up. Just a big tube the size of your finger or larger with the fins hooked to it. The only time you replace an evaporator core is when it fails due to leakage.

 

[07navi]

Isn't his in 08? There should be just like traditional Fords I have an orifice tube up near the firewall going into the evaporator. I think most of the forwards in the rear air had an expansion valve for the rear but it really doesn't matter one way or the other. If it has an orifice to change it. If expansion valve don't worry about it until you diagnose an actual problem but they don't clog up like orifice tubes do.

IDK for sure.

 

[07navi]

Let's be careful about our terminology and accuracy. The evaporator is not an item that you replace unless yours leaks. I know of no warranties that mention anything about evaporator replacement.
The accumulator and often called an accumulator drier which typically has a desiccant bag inside is the part that is often required to be replaced with a compressor for the warranty. Also many times the orifice tube is required for warranty but that's always a good idea anytime you have a compressor failure and even a good idea on any older system that's never been opened up. Might as well replace it to get the gunk off the screen while you have the system charge out.

They will sometimes called at the accumulator or receiver drier also. Since it has a desiccant bag in it it can also be considered a dryer since it serves as that purpose.
The funny part is most vehicles have another dryer in the liquid line but they never talk of this being replaced for warranty.

Probably because it's hard to do and not as commonly reproduce by aftermarket companies and they figure the same thing can be accomplished by replacing the accumulator and they can sell more parts and make more money.

So for warranty purposes it is almost always the accumulator and or the orifice tube.
I have I have never seen a warranty that mentions anything or requires the evaporator core to be replaced.
It doesn't have small passages in it that get clogged up. Just a big tube the size of your finger or larger with the fins hooked to it. The only time you replace an evaporator core is when it fails due to leakage.

Right, the evaporator would be hard to change and not necessary, he must have gotten his terminology wrong.