2011 XLT after 100K miles

[Walt460]

So my 2011 XLT with the 5.4L 6-speed and 9200# towing has gotten to 103K miles. I use it for towing my JimGlow car trailer and project vehicles, often on multi-day trips so reliablity is very important. So now I am wondering how long some components will last.

I am planning to do radiator hoses, heater hoses (one seems to be weeping), the coolant, likely the thermostate and the water pump, belt, tensioner and idlers. Also plan to change the spark plugs since they were last done at 60K miles.

But what about these components, how long will they last?
Alternator?
AC compressor?
Fuel pump and filter?
Cooling fans?
Ignition coils?
Injectors?
Oxygen sensors?
Starter motor?

What else should I be concerned about?

Thanks.

 

[Plati]

So my 2011 XLT with the 5.4L 6-speed and 9200# towing has gotten to 103K miles. I use it for towing my JimGlow car trailer and project vehicles, often on multi-day trips so reliablity is very important. So now I am wondering how long some components will last.

I am planning to do radiator hoses, heater hoses (one seems to be weeping), the coolant, likely the thermostate and the water pump, belt, tensioner and idlers. Also plan to change the spark plugs since they were last done at 60K miles.

But what about these components, how long will they last?
Alternator?
AC compressor?
Fuel pump and filter?
Cooling fans?
Ignition coils?
Injectors?
Oxygen sensors?
Starter motor?

What else should I be concerned about?

Thanks.

To each their own. Seems like overkill to me. I once preemptively put in an alternator (2003XLT) before a long trip. It failed on the trip. My 2003 a/c system still cranks out ice cold air and never had any service actions. Have never replaced injectors or oxy sensors. Did a COP once. Starter motor original as is water pump (and engine). Fuel filters every couple few years (they rust up here and are cheap). Did plugs at 100K (now at 187K). All original radiator & heater hoses. Been through a couple snake belts , tensioner & idler. I'm from the school that says follow scheduled maintenance, watch & listen for problems, live and let live what seems to be working. If it ain't broke dont fix it. YMMV

New battery always good if its 4 or more years old. Tires, brakes ... new condition is always good, but inspection tells me when bad (or pulling / overheating / pulsing).

Sounds like you ought to buy a brand new vehicle every 4 years.

No offense intended, you did request comments.

 

[Walt460]

"Sounds like you ought to buy a brand new vehicle every 4 years.

No offense intended, you did request comments.

2003 XLT 4X4 & 2014 EL 4X4
Krown Oil + Fluid Fil"

No offense taken MrSticker, and thanks for your comments.

My Expedition is a great tow vehicle and I am just trying to keep it reliable by asking other owners what has been their experience with componet failures after 100K miles.

I can see that one heater hose has been weeping and the coolant is 10 years old so I am planning to replace the thermostat and all the hoses and put in fresh Ford coolant.

I am also going to replace the spark plugs since they have 43K on them and the originals were getting bad at 60K when I changed them.

It has always had frequent (4K or less) oil changes and the air filter every 20K.

 

[Trainmaster]

I have to agree with Sticker. I've owned a few of these trucks and 100K miles isn't a big deal. The weeping heater hose is a known problem and the plastic tee on them often doesn't last even that long. I've never replaced an Expedition radiator hose in hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles. I usually drain the transmission at about 120K miles and maybe the transfer case. Change the anti-freeze if you've never done that along with the thermostat perhaps.

You might replace the pulleys, belt and tensioner at about 120K also; that can ruin your day if one locks up.

Otherwise, as mentioned above, anything else will let you know when it needs you.

 

[cattlecar]

Triton engine water pumps are notoriously long life. NO
I do not see Triton engine starters get replaced in my shop until 200K unless they get damaged from huge oil leaks that allow oil into starter or the flywheel gets damaged. These two issues are very rare on these too. NO
Basket handle spark plugs on 3 valve tritons are easily 120K spark plugs. Coil boots will fail before spark plugs reach 120K or much sooner if water or coolant gets into plug holes. The coils are reliable, the replacement of these is for bad boots or water ingress. The coils got an undeserved bad rap due to other issues. NO
I have never had seen a triton fuel injector failure unless the fuel was contaminated and this is way rare and usually E85. NO
A/C compressors are good for 200K or more unless something leaks refrigerant oil. The scroll compressors on earlier leaked when 10 years old but your FS20 compressor is a good one. NO
Electric cooling fan assembly is good for 200K unless your rig sits idling A LOT. That electric fan will rarely operate if you are moving 30 MPH and above. Maybe on occasion towing your trailer uphill on 90F or above days. NO
Alternator on 2011 is a long life unit but at 130K it is probably a good idea, at least to have the spare one onboard. It is an easy one to change. The serpentine belt being released is the hard part. I'd change one in a parking lot in a second if that that is a task you'd do yourself.
I do not see gasoline fuel system problems other than water or contamination in a decade now. When I go inside fuel tanks to do fuel pumps I do not see trash on 200K vehicles. Fuel filters need to be changed around 100K due to the electric fuel pump brush and commutator wear. If you dump a fuel filter and see grey murky stuff and little copper flecks that is not dirty fuel but is the pump wear particles.
Oxygen sensors are not nearly done at 130K on a highway use vehicle unless very high idle hours are also on the vehicle.
If there is a pre-emptive thing I would do on a 10 year old 130K Expy its the electric temp and mode door actuators in the rear a/c-heat unit. One of those is due to break a tooth and start cyclically clicking on a HOT locale vehicle in Boulder City.
I'm not thinking hoses are due but thermostat is a great idea as well as cooling system flush. Do not use G06/ Ford yellow coolant like was in it originally. Longlife coolants that are used in Ford vehicles now are better and can be used if old stuff is flushed out.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

I did all my heater hoses, coolant and tstat (put in an OEM temp high flow) around the 100k mark. I did the spark plugs shortly before. Check the belt and the accessory drive pulleys; the idler pulleys are the only ones really known for early failures though. I had a lot of accessory drive components fail between 155-180k (belt tensioner, more idler pulleys, water pump). I had an O2 sensor fail around 180k; the rest are original and still working properly. The last few Ford I've had all had the alternators fail upwards of 200k, so I wouldn't do that at 100k. Of course I have the battery voltage staring me in the face all day, every day, so I don't fell like I'm flying blind on that one.

Do not use G06/ Ford yellow coolant like was in it originally. Longlife coolants that are used in Ford vehicles now are better and can be used if old stuff is flushed out.

In 2011 Ford was using orange, which Ford has discontinued and replaced with yellow.

 

[Kjhawkeye1]

For my '11 I recently swapped out the battery, changed transmission fluid, drained and refilled both diffs and transfer case with synthetic and other regularly scheduled maintenance. Appreciate the reliability from the vehicle... knock on wood.

 

[tommyddsr]

Unfortunately nothing you mentioned comes with an expiration date (don't we wish it did) and due to driving habits, climate conditions, etc. your milage may vary. Mr. Sticker is spot on with this one.

 

[71Rcode]

Great advice. My 2011 is just at 100k. Changed ALL fluids with Motorcraft oem, plugs and both idler pulleys, tensioner pulley and belt (all Motorcraft). No plans to replace any hoses or other components. Very happy with her.

 

[Brons2]

The serpentine belt being released is the hard part.

Way easier to release the serpentine belt on the 5.4 than on most transverse mounted engines on front wheel drive cars. It took me less than 10 minutes to change my serpentine belt, and in the case of an alternator replacement, you wouldn't even need to remove the belt, just take it off the alternator pulley.

 

[cattlecar]

The G06 yellow and the new Ford coolant are not the same. If you look at Motorcrsft coolant web page they have a great chart and the distinction between the two is well covered there. The new yellow is actually the color of Mountain Dew with a green tint before dilution. The G06 still has some silicate and is the reason 6.0/6.4 diesels and other coolant-oil cooler fitted engines plug their coolers. The new yellow/green stuff is an organic acid coolant not relying on any silicate and has high cavitation resistance diesels must have.

 

[Andy Rubalcaba]

probably just need a timing job at 100k, then again it would be better to just do a peak and inspect the cam phasers and see the overall health of the engine under the valve cover, because at 100k it might still be looking great depending on your oil change habits.

otherwise just keep a truck fund to replace things later in life, you should be pretty solid at just 100k still. maybe have bushings inspected and what not since you tow a lot, but yeah, not much needed yet.