2017 3.5 EB Oil Preference

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rjdelp7

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Ford recommends synthetic blend, for models sold in the USA. However the same Expedition sold in Canada or Mexico, Ford recommends full synthetic. Ford doesn't want cheap US owners, complaining about the high oil change cost. I would always use full syn in the EB and change at least 5000K.
 

07navi

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Ford recommends synthetic blend, for models sold in the USA. However the same Expedition sold in Canada or Mexico, Ford recommends full synthetic. Ford doesn't want cheap US owners, complaining about the high oil change cost. I would always use full syn in the EB and change at least 5000K.
Me too, best oil and good change timing, it will pay for itself.
 

Greg Coleman

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Ford recommends synthetic blend, for models sold in the USA. However the same Expedition sold in Canada or Mexico, Ford recommends full synthetic. Ford doesn't want cheap US owners, complaining about the high oil change cost. I would always use full syn in the EB and change at least 5000K.
It's actually more about the quality of fuels available in other countries. You would expect fuel in Mexico to be consistent due to PeMex being a state-run refinery. It's pretty much the opposite. You never know what you're getting. In Canada, the weather plays a role in fuel quality. Long-term storage in arctic cold can lead to fuel breaking down.

I work in the auto industry. From NASCAR engines, to modern, high-output 4's, to diesels, to some crazy power levels. I have been involved in many, many discussions about oils. "Oil is oil" is NOT a good policy!! There is an incredible variety of base stocks in use, and an even broader spread of additive packages. I won't get into the discussion any deeper than to say that even Mobil 1 has it's limitations. In anything built in the last 20 years, you're safe using ANY good, name-brand synthetic. If you have anything older than the 80's, DO YOUR RESEARCH!!! The level of zinc and phosphorous in modern synthetics will NOT protect your old flat-tappet cam and your old ring materials.

My '16 Expy gets Amsoil Signature series. Do some research on "Low Speed Pre Ignition" (LSPI) in direct-injected and boosted engines.
 

HawkX66

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In anything built in the last 20 years, you're safe using ANY good, name-brand synthetic. If you have anything older than the 80's, DO YOUR RESEARCH!!! The level of zinc and phosphorous in modern synthetics will NOT protect your old flat-tappet cam and your old ring materials.
My '16 Expy gets Amsoil Signature series. Do some research on "Low Speed Pre Ignition" (LSPI) in direct-injected and boosted engines.
Run regular oil in a flat tappet motor and you'll be putting a cam in it guaranteed. I run Brad Penn in my 460ci BBC even though it's a roller motor.
I've been calling Amsoil snake oil for years. I think I started out thinking it was Amway oil lol. I was talking to my brother about it the other night and he's got me swinging in the other direction. He's a Mech Engineer and has built many engines. His big Tri-Power Pontiac in his 65 GTO gets Amsoil and drops the temps 20 degrees compared to regular oils. He has 1/2 his coolant passages filled for racing. Before, he'd go out on the highway and have to get off every few exits to let her cool down. Now it never goes above 200.
SE Mich. You go to Milan? Just moved from that area a couple of years ago.
 

mquick5

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I just picked up a 2017 3.5 EB with 75K one owner miles I am assuming it was standard oil my guess
5w-30 the owner had done w/ oil changes so with the Ecoboost
Switch over to Synthetic or Amsoil?
Or
since it has 75K stay with standard oil weight (Is switching to synthetic bad idea)
You can get the motocraft synthetic blend at wal*mart pretty cheap. That's what I'd use if changing myself. I did the 1st oil change on mine, but since have taken to the dealer.

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mquick5

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I liked the first part but why the dealer?
My oil life went from 100% to 5% barely 3k miles. So if there's a issue I wanted dealer aware of it. I started a thread called "short oil life" I've read on here about some going 10k plus miles before oil life monitor says to change. Since I've owned my truck we've put about 11k miles on it in 21 months. And it has required 3 oil changes. So were going around 6 months and 3k miles. I've learned or have been led to believe it's my wife's fault, for all the curb idling she does and remote starts, along with very little freeway driving.

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mquick5

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I change my oil every 3,000 and the oil percent reading has never gone below 47%.
See at 3k miles my wife's is below 5%. I was told to do the oil change next time and send oil of to ne checked. But I know nothing about that or what the fees are. So I'm just going by the truck.

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lbv150

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Stupid question...are you sure the oil monitor was reset at the last oil change?
 

Machete

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I change my oil every 3000 and my oil reading says ....oh wait, my truck doesn’t have an oil life reader.
 

mquick5

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Stupid question...are you sure the oil monitor was reset at the last oil change?
Yes, and that's what this truck averages since I bought it. Recently it has 800 miles and at 75%.

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Greg Coleman

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Run regular oil in a flat tappet motor and you'll be putting a cam in it guaranteed. I run Brad Penn in my 460ci BBC even though it's a roller motor.

SE Mich. You go to Milan? Just moved from that area a couple of years ago.

This^ exactly. Short story: The K Mart across the street from Daytona Int'l Speedway used to be the #1 retailer of Mobil 1 in the country. Many race teams used to just go over and buy it. In the mid-90's, the API spec on motor oils changed to remove the zinc and phosphorous to keep the catalysts alive. The NASCAR cup engines still used flat tappet cams at that time. One February, ('94?) teams just went over and bought their oil by the case just like they had for years. And a LOT of cams got wiped out!! People were ready to kill engine builders, cam grinders, even the guys setting lash!! It took a couple of days to figure it all out, but there were some worn-out crew dogs from doing engine changes, and a few all-nighters swapping cams and lifters in fresh engines!

Bottom line is that any old car with a flat tappet CANNOT use an off-the-shelf synthetic oil!! Brad Penn, Amsoil, (Amway oil LOL), Joe Gibbs, Royal Purple, and more have oils specifically made for the older stuff. I looked at what was out there, how it was made and tested, and decided to go with Amsoil. I have it in my stroker SBF, and in the Expedition. My wife's car is under 8K miles, and we're still letting the dealer do the changes there. They're all roller tappet, but I was most impressed by Amsoil so I decided to go with it.

I'm about 10 miles from Milan Dragway. No naturally, I set up the old Fox body for road racing and have to go 60 miles to Waterford Hills!
 

Machete

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Greg, what year ranges would you say Chevy engines were flat tappet lifters?

Im asking for my 1970 2.5L mercruiser in my boat.

Thanks
 

jeff kushner

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That mercruiser 2.5 is the old style........I grew up on the water buddy and for the life of me, never understood why no one could build a solid outdrive....yours is pre-alpha so no nylon parts in yours,

jeff
 

Greg Coleman

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Greg, what year ranges would you say Chevy engines were flat tappet lifters?

Im asking for my 1970 2.5L mercruiser in my boat.

Thanks
I would most certainly run one of the "specialty" oils I mentioned above. All of them offer an oil made for older engines. Unless someone put a TON of time and money into it, that little Chevy is flat tappet all the way. I'm pretty sure they didn't start with roller tappets until the mid-to-late 80's. 5.0 Ford went roller in '85.
I'm not going to be "that" guy who swears by his favorite brand and tells everyone else they should use it because he does. Do your own research. Make your own decision.
 

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