4-Wheel drive upgrades.

[The Pawnbroker]

My first question has to do with how the stock 4X4 system works. If I’m correct, my ’01 doesn’t have any kind of traction control such as using the ABS system or anything. Correct? So it just has the transfer case with Auto, 4X4 high and 4X4 low.

Second, does it have any kind of axle disconnect at all? I don’t think so but I wanted to check. My thinking is the Auto 4X4 needs the entire front driveline to be ready to go at all times.

So finally, I want to improve my traction. As far as I’m concerned, the limited slip is not much help. At least not “good enough” for me to have confidence in being able to keep going when needed. And the front is just an open diff.

If I’m correct on how the stock system works, I plan on installing a Detroit locker or Truetrac in the rear and a Truetrac up front. I have Detroit locker’s front and rear in my 2008 F350 and love them. I run that truck with my Truck Camper on it about 95% of the time. Because of all that weight, I never hear any kind of noise when it locks/unlocks. They’re bulletproof. Eaton does make versions of some of the Detroit lockers with “SL” in the model numbers. That indicates they have a device in them that “softens” the engagement a bit. I’ve never had any problems whatsoever with my truck though. From what I understand, the Detroit locker will continue to drive the other wheel even if one wheel is off the ground. The Truetrac won’t do that.

Thanks in advance for double checking me on my understanding of how the stock system works and any experience or advice you have regarding my axle swaps.

 

[toms89]

My first question has to do with how the stock 4X4 system works. If I’m correct, my ’01 doesn’t have any kind of traction control such as using the ABS system or anything. Correct? So it just has the transfer case with Auto, 4X4 high and 4X4 low.

Correct

Second, does it have any kind of axle disconnect at all? I don’t think so but I wanted to check. My thinking is the Auto 4X4 needs the entire front driveline to be ready to go at all times.

Correct, 01 does not

So finally, I want to improve my traction. As far as I’m concerned, the limited slip is not much help. At least not “good enough” for me to have confidence in being able to keep going when needed. And the front is just an open diff.

If I’m correct on how the stock system works, I plan on installing a Detroit locker or Truetrac in the rear and a Truetrac up front. I have Detroit locker’s front and rear in my 2008 F350 and love them. I run that truck with my Truck Camper on it about 95% of the time. Because of all that weight, I never hear any kind of noise when it locks/unlocks. They’re bulletproof. Eaton does make versions of some of the Detroit lockers with “SL” in the model numbers. That indicates they have a device in them that “softens” the engagement a bit. I’ve never had any problems whatsoever with my truck though. From what I understand, the Detroit locker will continue to drive the other wheel even if one wheel is off the ground. The Truetrac won’t do that.

Thanks in advance for double checking me on my understanding of how the stock system works and any experience or advice you have regarding my axle swaps.

The biggest problem with limited slip on the front is its potential effect on steering and feedback to the driver. Surprised you don't notice it with your F350. Maybe with the sheer weight and power assist you get less feedback?! My understanding is the detroit locker will by design let one wheel spin faster than the other to negotiate turns beyond the input speed, but under power both wheels must maintain a minimum speed based on the driveshaft speed of course. Kind of like a ratcheting mechanism. The wheels cannot go any slower than the power input but are allowed to spin faster if necessary.

 

[tonydiv]

If you want to put an upgraded diff in the front, your choices are limited to selectable lockers, like arb, e-locker, etc. No other manufacturer recommends putting their unit in the front of the truck.

The trucks with a 2wd option have a front axle disconnect. But the issue is that it only unlocks the right side axle. This makes it equally difficult to put in an LS diff or locker.

 

[The Pawnbroker]

Thanks for the reply's. As far as the F350, it has hubs on the front. So unless I'm using 4-wheel drive, there's no feedback. I do manually lock the hubs periodically to keep everything lubricated and I still don't notice anything. The reason I built this truck with the Detroit in the front is it's never going to be doing any kind of technical trail work. Or anything near that. I wanted to be able to keep going in sand, mud or snow. In a straight line mostly.

I'll have to give more thought and research to the front I guess. I could of course cut the wire that controls the auto 4X4 system. But that still leaves the fully connected front drivetrain. Has anyone installed hubs on the front? I'd like to keep the operation as simple at possible, but I've always thought the Eaton E-Locker is a good choice also. So that may be the way I go.

Also, do I need to swap out the rear axles when I do this? Or are the strong enough already?

 

[toms89]

I have never had any issues in sand or snow with the factory traction lock and open front diff in mine. Never really see mud or rock crawl though.

Assuming you have the 9.75 rear the lightnings run the same rear and I have yet to hear any lightnings break an axle and there are some significantly modded ones drag racing. Cannot say the same for driveshafts or spider gears.

 

[FordandPolaris]

I too have never had a problem aside from one time I framed out in two ruts (front wheels in one rut, back wheels in the other...)

It seems like a lot more work than it is worth. Upgrade the tires if you are going for more go power.

 

[sgtowing]

ARB Air Lockers front and rear. Open for everyday and locked when you need it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4

 

[The Pawnbroker]

I too have never had a problem aside from one time I framed out in two ruts (front wheels in one rut, back wheels in the other...)

It seems like a lot more work than it is worth. Upgrade the tires if you are going for more go power.

Tires are important for sure. And yours are good ones. But unlike you guys, I've been stuck plenty. In sand, mud, and snow. And these days, I want to be able to go wherever I want to with the least chance of getting stuck. As for it being more effort than it's worth, I don't think so at all. It's not really a big job. And it makes a huge difference. I can probably go more places than almost any stock 4x4 truck without even putting my truck in 4x4. Having a locker in the rear is a nice addition. I do want to keep this as simple as possible so I think I'll leave the axle ratio alone (3.55). That way I can do the Detroit in the rear and maybe wait and see how it does before doing the front.

As far as ARB's, they're good for some purposes. Mostly I believe in more of a trail rig where you are using the system more often. I know of a few people who don't use it very often who've ended up with electrical gremlins as well as air leaks. Because it requires electricity to run a compressor and then the compressed air to lock it up, it adds complexity that I don't want. Not to mention how much more expensive they are. I am still very interested in info on the E-Locker. That seems to me to be a fairly simple system. And I'm much less concerned about the reliability of the front diff locking than the rear. Even if it fails to lock, I would still have more than what stock trucks have since I'll a locker in the rear and an open diff up front.

Thanks again for the input. Any more ideas or suggestions anyone?

 

[tonydiv]

I looked for ages trying to find a way to change the front end over to locking hubs. Nothing short of doing a solid axle swap will make it work.

 

[bcmaxx]

Don't put an auto locker in the front if you daily drive it in the winter. Its unpredictable. My jeep is scary to drive. It reverse feeds and locks up on braking and pulls you to the lowest side of the road when locked and spinning for traction

 

[GJarrett]

If your Expy is also your daily driver, another option you might consider for your rear locker is a Powertrax NoSlip. It's a "lunchbox" locker so not quite as strong as a Detroit would be, but on the other hand you can install it yourself in a couple of hours. The reason I am suggesting this is that it is probably the most "street friendly" locker made; once you get used to it and learn how to turn corners etc, you cannot even tell it is back there... no clicking or acting up at all on the pavement. But once you feed it some power it locks up solid like a locker should.

I had a '99 Explorer that was my daily driver and also wheeled HARD on many major trails all over the country (the Rubicon, Moab, Colorado, etc). It had nearly a quarter million miles on it before I retired it a few months ago. It was equipped with a NoSlip and never gave me any problems.

There's nothing wrong at all with your plan for your rear axle; I just thought I'd throw out another option for you that you may not have considered yet. You'll do fine with any good locker in the back.

 

[tonydiv]

My previous post may not be accurate:

If you don't mind spending about $2K, there is a way to add locking hubs to a Ford. They don't specifically say if it fits the F150 / Expedition though.

BTF Unit-Bearing Eliminator Hub Assembly :: Blue Torch Fab

 

[bcmaxx]

If your Expy is also your daily driver, another option you might consider for your rear locker is a Powertrax NoSlip. It's a "lunchbox" locker so not quite as strong as a Detroit would be, but on the other hand you can install it yourself in a couple of hours. The reason I am suggesting this is that it is probably the most "street friendly" locker made; once you get used to it and learn how to turn corners etc, you cannot even tell it is back there... no clicking or acting up at all on the pavement. But once you feed it some power it locks up solid like a locker should.

I had a '99 Explorer that was my daily driver and also wheeled HARD on many major trails all over the country (the Rubicon, Moab, Colorado, etc). It had nearly a quarter million miles on it before I retired it a few months ago. It was equipped with a NoSlip and never gave me any problems.

There's nothing wrong at all with your plan for your rear axle; I just thought I'd throw out another option for you that you may not have considered yet. You'll do fine with any good locker in the back.

No slip gets my vote too. If you go lunchbox that is. Its invisible and dead quiet. Can't say the same for the Aussie locked I removed

 

[Canadian Expy]

My previous post may not be accurate:

If you don't mind spending about $2K, there is a way to add locking hubs to a Ford. They don't specifically say if it fits the F150 / Expedition though.

BTF Unit-Bearing Eliminator Hub Assembly :: Blue Torch Fab

Wow that looks nice, wonder how good it would be?

 

[tonydiv]

I'm sure it would be fantastic, but again, by the time you add a good set of locking hubs, you're going to be near that $2,000 mark.

 

[Canadian Expy]

I'm sure it would be fantastic, but again, by the time you add a good set of locking hubs, you're going to be near that $2,000 mark.

Yeah for that I can dump the dana 60's I have under it!!!