5.4L Triton timing set, replace oil pump?

[JExpedition07]

I popped the cap and turned the wheel lock to lock and it’s helping but here is the next dilemma. The truck runs great for about 2 minutes then shakes, bogs out and stalls. I can’t keep it running. When it’s cold it’s running perfect. The smoke wasn’t the belt he was wrong, it’s the oil burning off of the exhaust manifolds because it subsided after a while.

 

[JExpedition07]

The prognosis seems to be it jumped time again and is over-retarded on one bank...this fricking engine will not stay in time once you crank it jumps timing every time. going to tear the engine down one more time and replace the chains this time. Maybe in a few weeks, just keeping my dads F-250 for the foreseeable future.

My only other idea is possibly a VCT solenoid.

 

[07navi]

The prognosis seems to be it jumped time again and is over-retarded on one bank...this fricking engine will not stay in time once you crank it jumps timing every time. going to tear the engine down one more time and replace the chains this time. Maybe in a few weeks, just keeping my dads F-250 for the foreseeable future.

My only other idea is possibly a VCT solenoid.

If you got it all together right it didn't jump time and it's not the chain. Did you put all the cam bearing caps back in the same place? You will know more when you pull the valve covers. Don't buy a Chevy because when that breaks down you will have to buy a dodge...….and then back to ford.

 

[JExpedition07]

Deleted

 

[07navi]

We are thinking an old chain is stretched a tooth or two...hence why my timing arks don't line up the way the Ford workbook shows when i have all the colored links lined up. Everyone says its acting over-retarded on one or both banks. Engine wont't run long enough (more than 2 minutes) to set a code. All cam caps kept in order and installed in same spots. Pulling valve covers isnt going to tell me anything frankly, its what is under the timing cover that makes this condition occur. When i get back home I'm going to unplug both VCT solenoids to see if itll run, if it does then we know it needs new camphasers.

I wish i just lived with the startup rattle and didn't do this...at least my truck ran perfect without a hiccup before. There wasnt much damage, all these youtube mechanics blow the startup rattle out of proportion i could have left it alone rattled for a year and no damage inside at all.

That's why it's good to have a real pressure gauge. The phasers were good before so that's not it, and it's not the chain because it didn't jump a tooth even with the bad tensioner. Chains don't suddenly wear out and they rarely do wear at all. Don't just throw parts at it, find out what happened.

 

[JExpedition07]

Got the scanner on even though there was no CEL and the only computer code is a vacuum leak. I don’t think that has anything to do with my rough idle and stalling though. There should be camshaft position sensor codes for over-retard. Runs perfect until it is warm.

 

[JExpedition07]

No difference with VCT solenoids unplugged same deal, runs good for about 2 minutes then starts to surge and dies.

 

[07navi]

No difference with VCT solenoids unplugged same deal, runs good for about 2 minutes then starts to surge and dies.

Might be OK then, a vacuum leak would cause that.

 

[JExpedition07]

Might be OK then, a vacuum leak would cause that.

It seems the brake booster line is off at the back of the intake manifold. Installing the drivers valve cover likely knocked it off. I’ll pull the intake manifold out Monday because I can’t reach it by hand.

 

[07navi]

It seems the brake booster line is off at the back of the intake manifold. Installing the drivers valve cover likely knocked it off. I’ll pull the intake manifold out Monday because I can’t reach it by hand.

That's a lot of vacuum loss right there. Things that are acting up on engines make them act in strange ways which makes them hard to diagnose unless you work on them every day.