6R75 Replacement

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JExpedition07

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Does anyone have any experience on removal of a 6R75 or 6R80 transmission? My ‘07 6R75 with 140k threw a wrench on the dash and a P0741 (Torque Converter clutch stuck off). Instead of a full rebuilt (estimate of $3,200), I’m leaning toward ordering a used low mileage 6R75 transmission out of a insurance totaled out expy from keystone/LKQ......

It’s a shame this trans shifts good and doesn’t slip but the TC clutch has decided to stop locking up at highway speeds the RPM is slightly higher. NYs will not pass the vehicle at inspection time with this code even though it doesn’t effect safety at all...
 

bobmbx

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Just to update I took it in and had it diagnosed. The fluid was bright red and in good shape according to professionals. Said it shifted well. What we did for now was changed all the fluid over to make sure it still functions properly. Still shifts good. They said knowing the transmission is healthy to go ahead and just replace the torque converter alone and not to rebuild the transmission. So I ordered a new torque converter. They said they’ve done them on a few mustangs and have had no issues just resolving the torque converter so long as the fluid isn’t burned. So this is the route I’m taking. No new transmission will just be swapping out the TC.
I think thats a good choice.
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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I guess the HD tow package may have saved me some more headache here with the bigger cooler compensating, it looks like fluid wasn’t burned and just converter can be replaced.
 
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mossback

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Just curious what the cost is for the TC alone. And are you doing the work or the shop?
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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Just curious what the cost is for the TC alone. And are you doing the work or the shop?

Thinking the trans shop, the TC part is cheap alone. A place here in buffalo refurbishes/rebuilds them for the 6R60,6R75, 6R80, 6R100, 6R140 etc it’s about $200 plus core. It’s mostly labor to drop the old one out.
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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In 1.5 weeks we (me and some help) will be dropping the transmission out and replacing the Torque Converter. TC problems persist. Have the rebuilt converter now. I’ll update with a step by step walkthrough on complete TC replacement from beginning to end. Thanks to the Mustang and F-150 forums I’ve gotten a taste as a few other guys have done this job as well! (albeit they had the 6R80). Relatively minor job and no internal work required.

Remove starter, disconnect trans wiring and shift, Drop out driveshafts, separate T-case from trans, remove cross member and bell housing bolts, lower trans out and remove and replace old converter. Repeat in reverse.
 
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mossback

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Ah, sorry to hear it's still giving you trouble. But look forward to the walkthrough!
 

07navi

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I R and R'd auto trans all day every day when I was a kid. It's nice to have an auto trans jack but I have muscled them out. It really takes 2 guys but watch out the converter doesn't slip out and whack you in the face. The truck has to be up high enough to clear the trans and the jack if you can rent one. My record for dropping a cast iron Powerglide was 18 minutes after it was drained.....lol
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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Sorry I haven’t posted, it’s looking like this just isn’t possible at the moment. I got everything out (cross member, support, exhaust, T-Case, driveshafts) but this job just isn’t possible because of the starter. I’ve spent more time on the starter alone (more than everything else combined). Starter is what beat me (I WAS SO CLOSE LOL). Going to leave it alone today in case a light bulb goes off.
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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Watched some YT and got the starter out so the job continues. Had to concoct a new tool lol.
 

07navi

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Sorry I haven’t posted, it’s looking like this just isn’t possible. We got everything out (cross member, support, exhaust, T-Case, driveshafts) but this job just isn’t possible because of the starter. We’ve spent about 3 hours on the starter alone (more than everything else combined) and it just does not seem possible on the 5.4L. My buddy at Ford says the engine often has to be removed from the body to replace the starter on the Expedition depending on model year. Sucks but hey we tried. Sorry for the fail guys but it’s time to button it all back up and send her to the shop (accept defeat). Beyond the starter everything else was very doable exhaust and trans mount/ cross member included. Starter is what beat me (I WAS SO CLOSE LOL). Going to leave it alone today in case a light bulb goes off.
That top bolt is hard to get to but not if you remove the solenoid from the starter first....not that hard.
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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Trans is out, didn’t feel like continuing more today. Converter install and re-assembly tomorrow.
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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Also would like to have a little talk with the tech at the shop that did my exhaust manifolds. Pass side motor mount not tightened, one bolt missing and the other at bottom of threads. Pass side of engine has been floating for the last 8 months or so. Haven’t noticed it driving but holy cow people just don’t give two sh*ts.
 

07navi

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Also would like to have a little talk with the tech at the shop that did my exhaust manifolds. Pass side motor mount not tightened, one bolt missing and the other at bottom of threads. Pass side of engine has been floating for the last 8 months or so. Haven’t noticed it driving but holy cow people just don’t give two sh*ts.
I had my ball joints done one time when I didn't have a place to work on it and they wanted to charge me $25 extra to put some little pieces in the brakes that wasn't needed, didn't give me a receipt, and I discovered a year later they left the 2 top bolts out of the wheel hub. (4 big bolts go there). I rarely have anyone work on my vehicles but every time they do they try to burn me somehow.....every time!
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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So what I’ll share so far is you will need at least 2 swivels to get the top bolt on the starter and 2 medium extensions as well as one shorty. Also you must drop the exhaust system behind manifolds. The Cats come down with the assembly all the way to the muffler. Many will have to cut bolts, mine are only a few months old so it wasn’t too bad yet. Still took a lot of torque to loosen. The trans itself is self explanatory, there is the main connector in the back, twist left and pull out. There is a sensor and all the extra jazz on the drivers side....unbolt and remove it all. Trans cooler lines after being removed can be pulled forward and out of the way, they have flexible rubber hoses up front so you can move them a bit. Bell housing bolts are self explanatory and really weren’t difficult. The cross member and trans mount is again self explanatory when you get to it loosen and remove. I’ll put together a better summary with hopefully some pics later on. I’m brushing over a lot right now.
 
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