AC clutch

[stamp11127]

• Check for battery voltage at the compressor connector and work your way back towards the battery following the diagram if voltage isn't present. Use chassis ground for the com/black lead on the meter.
• If power is present at the connector check the black wire on the plug for continuity to ground. If the meter reads OL or infinite that part of the circuit is "open".

 

[Big Brian]

If you use the chassis for ground make sure that the connection for your meter to ground is good.

Touch the positive lead of the meter to B+ to make sure otherwise you may be chasing your tail using a bad ground for the meter

 

[johnboneske]

No, the low pressure switch is on the accumulator next to the firewall. If you bypass it and it still doesnt kick in, 9 times out of 10 its the gap in the clutch which is the issue.

 

[Enigma346]

No, the low pressure switch is on the accumulator next to the firewall. If you bypass it and it still doesnt kick in, 9 times out of 10 its the gap in the clutch which is the issue.

No that, that is not the low pressure switch? It is right under those 3 or 4 plugs/harnesses?

 

[johnboneske]

I was wrong... On mine, its real close to the radiator and the high side service port. Close to the washer fluid tank.

 

[Enigma346]

If you're talking about the switch basically in the middle of your picture, isn't that the high pressure switch? I have one there as well. Looks like the high pressure side. Smaller diameter ac line.

 

[johnboneske]

Well, that's the clutch cut off switch. Unplug it and see what happens...lol

 

[Big Brian]

maybe you are low (or out) on charge. Did you put gauges on it?

 

[johnboneske]

That's a good question. What are your pressures at? You should be around 45psi @75° on the low side.

 

[Big Brian]

well if the compressor is not spinning he wont have that

rule of thumb is static pressure (hi and lo side) should be about ambient temp