AC leak in rear of 2007 exp

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TonyS

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2007 exp eddie bauer.
AC leaking in rear. I can hear a loud hsssing. I refilled Leak detection die. could not located source of leak, even removed the back pannels did not see any dye on the pipes, evaporator, fiting. Has anyone seen this before. No signs of the dye are visable. We even removed rear pannles/ cassings.
 

Adieu

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Any clicking? It's usually all about the clicking with rear air
 

Sgt Darkness

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2007 exp eddie bauer.
AC leaking in rear. I can hear a loud hsssing. I refilled Leak detection die. could not located source of leak, even removed the back pannels did not see any dye on the pipes, evaporator, fiting. Has anyone seen this before. No signs of the dye are visable. We even removed rear pannles/ cassings.

I feel ur pain on the a/c leak. Why can’t things be more simple like they used to be? I’m sure u checked the areas under the hood too. If it slipped ur mind, I would check for dye around the under hood compressor and lines going from there to the rear......if you can access them, that’s the big question......I took an a/c class years ago but these newer vehicles have changed so much that they may have a danged defrost board in em now like ur house does. I just wanted to reply to ur question since no one else has. Good luck Tony...
 
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TonyS

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Thx. I checked all lines. Even under the truck. You can actually hear the leak in the back. When we stripped the pannels and casings , we were surprised not to find any signs of the dye. We thought it was the rear evaporator, but it was completely dry and un marked.
 

Adieu

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Sometimes these things get hissy/whistly in certain modes without leaking.... have you tried switching up the settings for rear A/C?
 
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TonyS

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Refrigerant empties out within an hour . Hissing stops once I run out of refrigerant.
 

1955moose

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You need to add air pressure to the low side port, and find where it's leaking from. That's how we did it at my cab company in SF. It's usually pretty obvious where the leak is. As the others said, most times it's an oring, or if someone with heavy hands worked on it recently, a cracked line.

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Sgt Darkness

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Should I add more dye and or refrigerate

I would only use air pressure like Moose suggested. That way you don’t use up your refrigerant or dye. Once U put the air pressure on the low line side port then you will hear it hissing as long as u keep pressure on the low side and that will give you control of how much and how long to put the pressure on.
 

Sgt Darkness

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No, don’t add refrigerant until you get the leak located and fixed. They also make a can of stuff that will bubble up on the leak area so you can find and repair it. Prob a O-ring needs to be replaced but that’s no problem.
 

stamp11127

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If you blow air into the system you are also adding moisture to it. We use nitrogen instead during the ac class. If you decide to use air make sure you vacuum the snot out of it to pull the added moisture out.
 

1955moose

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Just figured air is easiest I most garages. Definitely drain your air tank on compressor at least twice. Lot of water and gunk settle down there. Ideally a body painters air filter in line would be a good idea. You'll feel or hear the leak when you find it.

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TonyS

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Hi . Still cnt locate leak. We can hear it. Could it be leaking internally in the rear evaporator.?? I hearing the hissing.
 
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TonyS

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We did . 2x.
We can hear it but cant see it or any signs of dye. Could the evap be leaking Inside? We opened the casing and found no residue of the dye
 

Jeff Thrash

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Did anyone figure this issue out? I have a 2011 and I am having same issue. Hissing noise coming from the passenger rear in the hatch area. I didn't hear the clicking noise but changed out the mode door actuator anyways. Still hissing. Everything seems to be blowing fine but not cold air, and more like room temp. Could it be the evaporator or the evaporated valve?
 
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