Anyone dealt with rotting rocker panels?

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1mpg

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Is there a fix that doesn’t involve many thousands to fix this? We are thinking of upgrading the truck but not for another year or two since other than this it’s been a great truck. Sure I’ve had to replace a couple of parts but it’s an 11 year old truck that’s exposed to CT’s crappy roads and salt.

B36EE434-52D0-4EC2-BB2A-AB5BDBE579D1.jpeg
 

JExpedition07

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Many others have the same thing, myself included. The only way to do it without spending many thousands is for you to do it... I have new rocker panels for mine sitting in the garage but I’m not too worried about it. Spray them and the rest of the truck with rust inhibitor.
 
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Cookieman00x

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My old 2004 that I sold a few months ago has the drivers side rotting. A few years ago I have a brake line burst, so I rebuild all the lines, did the rotors, pads, parking brake everything. After the rot crept up to the top of the rocker, I decided that it was time to move on.

Everything under the car was starting to look well past its age even if the truck only had 68k on it.

I priced new rockers at under $200 a side, and got a quote of 800 per side installed and painted.

If the entire under side had rust like the rockers (as mine did) its only going to be a matter of time before you start having other issues.
 

mjp2

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Amazing timing on this thread. While I was under the truck on Saturday changing the transfer case fluid I noticed a little paint bubble on the front passenger side rocker. Went to touch it and my finger went through. Picked away at it and ended up with this:

IMG_20180630_200305902.jpg
Hand for size reference.

I'm disappointed but it's not the end of the world. Cutting/welding new steel is cheaper than taking on fresh payments; and really, anything is going to rot with all the road salt that gets dumped in the northeast.

I've found "slip-on" rocker covers for cheap, but I don't like the idea of just covering up the problem. I'm thinking the approach with these would be to cut out the rust, coat everything exposed with a rust converter/preventative, and then install the covers on top.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Exped...-Side-Slip-On-Style-Rocker-Panel/232004375176

Does anyone know how compatible the F150 rockers are with our Expeditions?

I'm not looking to use the full length -- just the front foot or so. There are plenty more body panel parts available for the pickups and if I can scrounge something useful from the panels available on the market, this could be a decent afternoon and a reasonably proper fix.

I'm planning on coating my liftgate in white bedliner in the near future and might tie the rocker fix into that project. If nothing else it'll make the mismatched white color look more deliberate. For the short term I sprayed rust converter on all the exposed metal I could reach to try to slow the rot.

Anyway, F150-to-Expedition rocker compatibility. Anyone know what's what with that?
 
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dirtrider

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Has anyone found replacement rocker panels that fit well? I’d like to buy some aftermarket ones for cheap but sometimes they really don’t fit well at all. Looking for some options and feedback for my 2003. I’ve already replaced the radiator support and put in all new brake lines like some of you. With the insanity of new truck prices I’d like to keep this thing going. I also barely used it but love to have it when needed. Only 81k on mine and owned it since new.
 

Habbibie

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On July 4th I replaced both my rockers & radiator support... it was a tedious job (rocker panels) but not as difficult as the radiator support and i dont recommended you attempting it if you down have a welder (gloves, mask and sleeves/jacket is mandatory you're gonna be laying under the welder gun), short blade sawzaw,3"-4.5" finishing grinder, car ramps or jack stands, sander, buffer, and a very strong helper or an engine hoist...

depending on your sheetmetal work experience expect anywhere from 8 hours minimum work (both sides) to multiple days. The ones I bought fit like a glove if you make your cut right, getting them prepainted also helps reduce cost down the road, taking the doors off and the interior panels off was the hardest part for me doors weight something like 190 lbs each (x4 doors) and trying not to brake the tabs on the plastic panels isn't easy work.

I rushed through both rockers and radiator support but I am highly skilled in sheetmetal & iron works plus Mig & stick welding... even then it took me shy of 14 hours non stop to do all 3

These are the rockers I bought:
https://raybuck.com/product/2003-06...hb1FqEKgSGxwhCWSb8WyNSIrdXFzWDDhoCfmoQAvD_BwE
Cost me $426 for both sides shipped then painted.

Hope this helps, I recently semi noted my work step by step in the "what did you do to your expedition today thread"
 

JExpedition07

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I’ll likely be replacing mine either this weekend if not then then first week in August. Sick of looking at this:

ECF0F3C8-086F-48C4-8B70-6F9F3439F434.jpeg
 
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mjp2

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On July 4th I replaced both my rockers & radiator support... it was a tedious job (rocker panels) but not as difficult as the radiator support and i dont recommended you attempting it if you down have a welder (gloves, mask and sleeves/jacket is mandatory you're gonna be laying under the welder gun), short blade sawzaw,3"-4.5" finishing grinder, car ramps or jack stands, sander, buffer, and a very strong helper or an engine hoist...

depending on your sheetmetal work experience expect anywhere from 8 hours minimum work (both sides) to multiple days. The ones I bought fit like a glove if you make your cut right, getting them prepainted also helps reduce cost down the road, taking the doors off and the interior panels off was the hardest part for me doors weight something like 190 lbs each (x4 doors) and trying not to brake the tabs on the plastic panels isn't easy work.

I rushed through both rockers and radiator support but I am highly skilled in sheetmetal & iron works plus Mig & stick welding... even then it took me shy of 14 hours non stop to do all 3

These are the rockers I bought:
https://raybuck.com/product/2003-06...hb1FqEKgSGxwhCWSb8WyNSIrdXFzWDDhoCfmoQAvD_BwE
Cost me $426 for both sides shipped then painted.

Hope this helps, I recently semi noted my work step by step in the "what did you do to your expedition today thread"
Nice, but I've yet to find anything definitive in terms of what lines up with the '07+ trucks.

May just have to wait a few more years for more trucks to rot out. Once there's a bigger market for replacement panels the manufacturers generally step up with products.
 

JExpedition07

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I purchased 2nd gen panels for mine, they look to be the same minus a few minor differences. Door openings, pillar, divets all appear the same and I put it up to my old ones and they match up pretty well. There may be some differences where it attaches behind front fender but I’m slicing that part off the new panels anyway as I’m not pulling fenders. The bottom angle may be slightly different too but I’ll be making them fit one way or another lol, if i have to I’ll bend up new tabs with a different angle and weld to the inner rocker. They sell slip on rockers for “03-17’ Expeditions” but I’d rather replace the entire panel with the oem thickness steel.
 
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dirtrider

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Has anyone tried the slip on panels? How do they fit and attach? Any known good ones (or bad ones to steer clear of)? My rockers are so bad I’m not sure there is much good material to weld to anymore. I think if it’s covered it will at least keep salt out and inhibit some further damage. Especially if rust converter is used first. Not sure it’s worth all the effort to cut out and weld everything new.
 

Plati

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I'm trying to figure out how to make plywood rocker panels.
I enjoy making stuff.

Plus, No way I'm spending much money on The Rustbucket
 

Paul Prekeris

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Purchased drivers slip ons to try out.. The rear door panel only covers about 1/2 rocker. not a fan of slip on's.. Trying to find replacement rockers for 2011 EL. read the thread about using 2003-2006. has anyone tried using these rockers on 2010 or newer? any help is appreciated.
 

John Christopher

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Is there a fix that doesn’t involve many thousands to fix this? We are thinking of upgrading the truck but not for another year or two since other than this it’s been a great truck. Sure I’ve had to replace a couple of parts but it’s an 11 year old truck that’s exposed to CT’s crappy roads and salt.

View attachment 25724

I have the same problem on my 2003 Expy EB. I had the passenger side fixed 2 years ago for $600. The drivers side is stating to go but it's not too bad yet. If you do repair it yourself please post updates of your progress. Good Luck.
 

mjp2

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Purchased drivers slip ons to try out.. The rear door panel only covers about 1/2 rocker. not a fan of slip on's.. Trying to find replacement rockers for 2011 EL. read the thread about using 2003-2006. has anyone tried using these rockers on 2010 or newer? any help is appreciated.
Do you have any photos of how everything lines up and/or where it falls short? I'm still weighing my options.

Sorry I can't help with input on the 2006 rockers just yet. I still have a pile of other projects to address before I tackle the rust and am only in the gathering-info phase.
 

Habbibie

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Do you have any photos of how everything lines up and/or where it falls short? I'm still weighing my options.

Sorry I can't help with input on the 2006 rockers just yet. I still have a pile of other projects to address before I tackle the rust and am only in the gathering-info phase.

Well first you need a new set of rockers to line out where they will bolt up/weld to, a good rule of thumb is you line up the new ones and draw a sharpie line on the edges then use a saw and cut 1/8" below the sharpie line.. that's the rule I used and worked flawlessly for me in the end.
 

Habbibie

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Purchased drivers slip ons to try out.. The rear door panel only covers about 1/2 rocker. not a fan of slip on's.. Trying to find replacement rockers for 2011 EL. read the thread about using 2003-2006. has anyone tried using these rockers on 2010 or newer? any help is appreciated.

Supposedly the frame/body from 2003-2017 is the same, the best I can suggest to you is buy a set for a 03-06 and see how they line up to your 2011, the worst that'll happen is they'll charge you 20% restocking fee on $100 part! Then you'll know for sure if it works or not
 

Motorcity muscle

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Saw a couple post about using rust converter, believe it needs to be top coated to work. With checking some other threads and finding out that there are numerous holes on the inside of rocker. Wonder if we could use the small cans of rust proofing and spray thru the factory holes and coat the inside of most of the rocker, or have a undercoating company do the work, then seal the holes.
 

Plati

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you Sir have the most useless post on all of expeditionforum.com's HISTORY! if you dont want to fix it Then sell it and ****!
Sell Rusty, my beloved Rustbucket?
How can one sell one's best friend?
I'll drive this BEAST until she can drive NO MORE and then bury her in the backyard alongside my old dog "Chipper".

I used a pressure washer on the cancer yesterday and removed a big pile of rust. Blew it onto the grass making that area iron rich. I expect an explosion of green growth there now. Expedition afterlife!
 
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