Carrying cargo on front hitch cargo carrier

[Joey Smith]

I am running low on available cargo weight given my rear axle weight rating (4380lbs). I am currently at 4240lbs (based on CAT scale weighing). My overall payload is 1767lbs and I am at 1287lbs so still have room to add but primarily on the front axle. On the front I am using up 3000lbs of the available 3550lbs (FAWR). I have a 2019 Exp Max XLT 4x4.

I was curious to know if people have used a front hitch cargo carrier to help distribute some of the cargo to the front axle to be able to carry additional items. We carry razor scooters for the kids and I was looking to add portable solar panels and possibly a generator but without some other way to carry cargo, I don’t see how everything is going to fit if I do want to add some additional items (ideally would get a larger truck but that is not currently an option I want to consider)...

Are there safety concerns of adding a front hitch cargo carrier? Straightforward to use and setup? Or more of a bother as it is yet another thing to prepare for trips?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.


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[JasonH]

What type of trailer are you pulling (bunk, toy)? You'll want to load the trailer axle so that only 10 - 15% of the trailer weight hits your payload. You're supposed to use a WDH to shift some weight from to the front axle from the rear axle. I know this doesn't directly answer your question, but it seems as though you have some margin for additional load. You may be able to shift some weight in the trailer away from the tongue.

 

[Joey Smith]

I have an airstream FC23D (current TT weight is 5560lbs). Tongue weight is 680lbs (based on CAT scale weighings). This is about 12.2%.

I use an Andersen WDH hitch.
TV Only:
Steer Axle: 3140
Drive Axle: 3460

Without WDH engaged my TV weights are
Steer Axle: 2840
Drive Axle: 4440

With WDH (as tight as I believe I can set it based on Andersen’s guidance on how compressed the urethane springs should be)
Steer Axle: 3000
Drive Axle: 4240

My axle limits are:
Front Axle Weight Rating: 3550
Rear Axle Weight Rating: 4380

I am getting some solar panels (~50lbs) thinking about a generator (~50+lbs) and also considering some bikes so was trying to determine whether a front hitch would help or if there were any issues with using them.

I would rather not have to use it as it does mean yet another item to prepare when going on a trip.

Would a different WDH help shift considerably more weight?

Thx.


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[JasonH]

Would a different WDH help shift considerably more weight?

I reviewed your post history and I recall you were focused on getting everything properly configured, so congrats on your diligence paying off. I use a Husky Centerline 32218. When I adjusted the hitch to move more weight forward, it was able to put 3220 lbs on the front axle, and there's room to go a little higher. So I suspect that yes, another hitch can move more weight forward. One of the benefits of the Andersen is that it's quiet, while the Husky creaks and moans at low speeds. Some people really hate it, but it doesn't bother me. You might have the option of trying a Husky, Blue Ox, or another brand and returning the hitch if it can't do what you need it to do. Of course the setup is fairly intensive, although it should go smoother since you've done it once with the Andersen.

 

[mwl001]

I suspect you can either get more out of your WDH or you need "bars" that transfer more weight... here's what I was able to do with my EAZ Lift and 600lb bars:
F Axle Ht R Axle Ht F Trlr Ht R Trlr Ht F Axle Wt R Axle Wt Tr Axle Wt Tongue Wt Link # (from loose end) GVWR
Unloaded 36 36.5 19.5 19.5 3100 3100 NA NA NA 15300 (I had to exit the vehicle at the scale so unsure if this includes one or two passengers and a full tank).
Ideal 36 35.75 19 20 3260 3640 5140 700 6 3260 (Fully loaded trailer plus WDH).

Kind of jumbled but after calibrating the hitch I get 3260 front and 3640 rear, probably around 700lbs on the hitch. Also less than an inch of squat... here's an easy way to know if you are getting enough/all the weight on your front axle - you want it as close to an unloaded fender height as possible. My fender height is 36" with no trailer and I can get it back to 36" with the WDH. I'd start there. Also make sure your shank allows your trailer to attach very close to level (or slightly lower at the hitch). If that is off, you are doomed to fail in distributing the weight.

I don't know if different hitch types are better or worse at redistributing... I would guess there are just different ways to do it. Mine creaks at low speed too but I like the simplicity and I don't have to be perfectly straight to connect it.

 

[Joey Smith]

I reviewed your post history and I recall you were focused on getting everything properly configured, so congrats on your diligence paying off. I use a Husky Centerline 32218. When I adjusted the hitch to move more weight forward, it was able to put 3220 lbs on the front axle, and there's room to go a little higher. So I suspect that yes, another hitch can move more weight forward. One of the benefits of the Andersen is that it's quiet, while the Husky creaks and moans at low speeds. Some people really hate it, but it doesn't bother me. You might have the option of trying a Husky, Blue Ox, or another brand and returning the hitch if it can't do what you need it to do. Of course the setup is fairly intensive, although it should go smoother since you've done it once with the Andersen.

Thanks for the tips!

When TV only
[unhitched from trailer but loaded for camping], I am at:
Drive: 3140
Steer: 3460

with TV+TT nonWDH I am at
Drive: 2840
Steer: 4440

With WDH,
Drive: 3000
Steer: 4240

I read this as being able to move 200lbs off of the rear axle and 160lbs went back to the TV front axle.

I was thinking that my expectations should be (for any WDH) that I would not be able to get my front axle weight any higher than 3140 (based on the TV only weight). Is that incorrect?

In your weighings where u were able to get 3220 lbs to the front, do you have the TV only weights and TV+TT with no WDH engaged? Would be curious to know how high the rear weight gets and how much was moved off by the WDH...

Thx!


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[Joey Smith]

I suspect you can either get more out of your WDH or you need "bars" that transfer more weight... here's what I was able to do with my EAZ Lift and 600lb bars:
F Axle Ht R Axle Ht F Trlr Ht R Trlr Ht F Axle Wt R Axle Wt Tr Axle Wt Tongue Wt Link # (from loose end) GVWR
Unloaded 36 36.5 19.5 19.5 3100 3100 NA NA NA 15300 (I had to exit the vehicle at the scale so unsure if this includes one or two passengers and a full tank).
Ideal 36 35.75 19 20 3260 3640 5140 700 6 3260 (Fully loaded trailer plus WDH).

Kind of jumbled but after calibrating the hitch I get 3260 front and 3640 rear, probably around 700lbs on the hitch. Also less than an inch of squat... here's an easy way to know if you are getting enough/all the weight on your front axle - you want it as close to an unloaded fender height as possible. My fender height is 36" with no trailer and I can get it back to 36" with the WDH. I'd start there. Also make sure your shank allows your trailer to attach very close to level (or slightly lower at the hitch). If that is off, you are doomed to fail in distributing the weight.

I don't know if different hitch types are better or worse at redistributing... I would guess there are just different ways to do it. Mine creaks at low speed too but I like the simplicity and I don't have to be perfectly straight to connect it.

Thanks for the guidance. Also very helpful. Do you have your weights with TV+Trailer without WDH engaged and the weight of your TV only (loaded but unhitched)? Curious to know how much you shifted off the rear axle with the EAZ lift.

I cannot exchange my Andersen now but if that can really help with redistributing the weight, I would think about saving up for another hitch instead of considering a front hitch.


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[mwl001]

You can definitely add weight to your front axle beyond the unloaded weight. Point of the WDH is to take weight off the rear axle and distribute it to both the trailer and the front axle.

Here’s a before and after when I accidentally didn’t tighten the bars enough. You can see the difference one link can make.

Before
Front 3220
Rear 3900
Trailer 5400

after
Front 3340
Rear 3740
Trailer 5420

by the way even 160lbs makes a difference. I thought I had hooked up correctly but stopped to weigh because the front felt light and the independent rear will definitely tell you when that is true.

 

[Joey Smith]

You can definitely add weight to your front axle beyond the unloaded weight. Point of the WDH is to take weight off the rear axle and distribute it to both the trailer and the front axle.

Here’s a before and after when I accidentally didn’t tighten the bars enough. You can see the difference one link can make.

Before
Front 3220
Rear 3900
Trailer 5400

after
Front 3340
Rear 3740
Trailer 5420

by the way even 160lbs makes a difference. I thought I had hooked up correctly but stopped to weigh because the front felt light and the independent rear will definitely tell you when that is true.

Thanks!

I did try tightening up the Andersen beyond their recommended amount (based on compressed length of those red urethane springs). It did continue to shift weight off the rear but I decided to stay within Andersen’s recommendations...concerned the springs could have issues...

For the EAZ hitch how do u select the bar rating of 600lbs? Does that address a range of possible tongue weights so that 700lbs is addressed?

Also did u consider other hitch options?

Thx again.


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[mwl001]

EAZ Lift has bars, like a lot of the WDH systems. The bars are rated for a certain amount of bend or weight, mine are rated to distribute 600lbs, so roughly it will put 200lbs on front/rear/trailer. You can swap the bars out if you need to transfer more weight. For now those bars are adequate. I would definitely consider a different system but I bought this TT used and the former owner threw it in for free, so I've just been using as is and no complaints so far. Had to swap out the shank, I have a tall vehicle with the hitch inside the bumper so needed at least 4" of drop.

In your situation, it does sound like you've maxed out the amount your hitch can redistribute, if you're at the max setting. There is a hitch angle setting you could play with as well which might increase the distribution. Again, I'm also assuming your trailer is leveled to your hitch ball because that makes a difference too.

 

[mwl001]

I guess I never looked closely at Anderson... I'm not sure that system allows you to "beef it up" by getting a stiffer bar, like the EAZ Lift? In that case you can probably only distribute so much weight with that system although I don't know how much. You might benefit by trading into a different system. Honestly I'm happy enough with what I have, I also like that I could go to 800lb or 1000lb bars if I like.

https://help.andersenhitches.com/fa...00-lbs-will-the-andersen-wd-hitch-work-for-me
I think this is your answer - looks like your system will transfer about half the hitch weight, and you are probably looking to transfer a little more than that, which is why maxing it out seems insufficient based on axle weights?

Also answered a question of my own... I'm strongly considering a beefier rear sway bar for the Expedition to help with towing, and I also get a lot of bounciness over uneven terrain. I had been blaming that on the rear suspension but it looks like that's a common side effect of a typical WDH system, which redistributes weight by pushing up, so when a bump releases that tension you get springiness. I'm assuming heavier bars might make that worse but not sure. An advantage of the Anderson system is that the force is applied horizontally, so you probably experience less of that.

 

[JasonH]

In your weighings where u were able to get 3220 lbs to the front, do you have the TV only weights and TV+TT with no WDH engaged? Would be curious to know how high the rear weight gets and how much was moved off by the WDH...

Thx!


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Unfortunately, I don't. My wife is too impatient to wait for me to hook and unhook, so I only have numbers with the WDH on for different scale visits.

If you try another hitch and it works better, you may be able to sell the Andersen. If you have the receipt showing the purchase date and very few trips on it, I'm sure someone would buy it. You can check sold hitches on Ebay to see what it may go for used.

 

[Joey Smith]

I guess I never looked closely at Anderson... I'm not sure that system allows you to "beef it up" by getting a stiffer bar, like the EAZ Lift? In that case you can probably only distribute so much weight with that system although I don't know how much. You might benefit by trading into a different system. Honestly I'm happy enough with what I have, I also like that I could go to 800lb or 1000lb bars if I like.

https://help.andersenhitches.com/fa...00-lbs-will-the-andersen-wd-hitch-work-for-me
I think this is your answer - looks like your system will transfer about half the hitch weight, and you are probably looking to transfer a little more than that, which is why maxing it out seems insufficient based on axle weights?

Also answered a question of my own... I'm strongly considering a beefier rear sway bar for the Expedition to help with towing, and I also get a lot of bounciness over uneven terrain. I had been blaming that on the rear suspension but it looks like that's a common side effect of a typical WDH system, which redistributes weight by pushing up, so when a bump releases that tension you get springiness. I'm assuming heavier bars might make that worse but not sure. An advantage of the Anderson system is that the force is applied horizontally, so you probably experience less of that.

Thanks for the pointers and info. When I had spoken to someone at Andersen about the weight distribution limits, they told me to expect a maximum of shifting 30% of the weight from the back to the front axles.

I will take a look at these other hitches as well and think about ways to get some $$ back on the Andersen if I find one that works better.


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[Joey Smith]

Unfortunately, I don't. My wife is too impatient to wait for me to hook and unhook, so I only have numbers with the WDH on for different scale visits.

If you try another hitch and it works better, you may be able to sell the Andersen. If you have the receipt showing the purchase date and very few trips on it, I'm sure someone would buy it. You can check sold hitches on Ebay to see what it may go for used.

Thanks. Why did u choose the Husky Centerline? Had experiences with other hitches on your expedition?

Thx.


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[JasonH]

Thanks. Why did u choose the Husky Centerline? Had experiences with other hitches on your expedition?

Thx.


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I honestly don't recall how I settled on the Centerline but I know I got it for a good price from Amazon warehouse. Then it turned out the packaging was torn up and a frame bracket was missing, so I had to find a machine shop to cut a replacement.

It was super stressful because this happened the day before I was due to tow it back to Texas from California. Which happened to be my first time towing ever.

If I had to guess, I would say I the Centerline because it's one of the cheapest ones that people say works well and it was available with quick shipping from Amazon.

 

[mwl001]

I honestly don't recall how I settled on the Centerline but I know I got it for a good price from Amazon warehouse. Then it turned out the packaging was torn up and a frame bracket was missing, so I had to find a machine shop to cut a replacement.

It was super stressful because this happened the day before I was due to tow it back to Texas from California. Which happened to be my first time towing ever.

If I had to guess, I would say I the Centerline because it's one of the cheapest ones that people say works well and it was available with quick shipping from Amazon.

When you’re on a highway and hit a large bump does that get pretty bouncy with the centerline? I’m trying to find a solution and I don’t think SumoSprings will help. My eaz lift has bars and chains and the bouncing can be really bad. I’m wondering if a different system would be better or if I need to look at something like a Gen Y.

 

[JasonH]

When you’re on a highway and hit a large bump does that get pretty bouncy with the centerline? I’m trying to find a solution and I don’t think SumoSprings will help. My eaz lift has bars and chains and the bouncing can be really bad. I’m wondering if a different system would be better or if I need to look at something like a Gen Y.

There's bounce, and a sort of horizontal rocking in the direction of motion. But I don't think it's excessive or uncomfortable. I will say that when my rear suspension was overloaded before I shifted more weight forward, it was bouncier.

Check your loads at the scale and make sure the weights are apportioned correctly between the axles. If that doesn't help it might be time for new struts, as they control rebound. They wear over time so it's not always obvious when they need replacement. I just upgraded to load range "E" tires, which improved the control while towing as well. The rear doesn't squirm or wiggle anymore.

 

[mwl001]

Hmm. I’ve only put 6k on the vehicle and have 22” wheels so not a lot of sidewall to work with as it is - I don’t think it’s any of those? Not sure higher load rating tires are available for these wheels but just might not have found them.

 

[Joey Smith]

I have been reading about the Front Axle Load Restoration (FALR) for the expedition. Ford’s trailer guide (https://www.ford.ca/cmslibs/content...uals/pdf/2019_RV_Trailer_Towing_guide_ENG.pdf) notes on page 37 that the target for dialing in the WDH is to restore 50% of the loading lost on the front axle with the WDH.

In the towing guide it refers to the wheel well height on the front. In my Ford manual for the Expedition, there is a reference to the WDH providing 50 restoration.

I had read elsewhere that this guidance should be used as the recommended amount of load restoration as there is benefit to the weight being on the rear. If that is the case then it seems that even if I do get a new hitch, I should avoid trying to get a full amount of load restoration even if it lets me make more use of my available payload.

I believe I am missing something here though as it would seem that based on this guidance, I would be safer to add the front hitch to make use of the available payload in the front and keep the WDH dialed in to provide 50% FALR.

Any guidance on understanding these recommendations from Ford would be appreciated.


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[mwl001]

I still think you’re better off using WDH to get more weight onto your front axle - you don’t necessarily need to know the weight just measure your fender height before and after. Sounds anyway like ford recommends something that can get you to 50% and the Anderson only does 30%.