Code that came up on my 98 Expedition.

[Deathwish0731]

Hey guys I have a 1998 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4L 4x4. It's 100% stock. My check engine light has been on for a month or 2 I thought it was the gas cap so I bought a new one and put it on and the light didn't go off. I took it a couple days ago to advance auto and had them hook up their OBD II scanner to my truck and when they did 11 codes came up but a couple of the codes came up twice so really it's like 8-9 codes. I don't know how to fix the codes or what half of them are. Can anyone help me out and tell me what caused the codes to come up and what they are. Here's the codes, C1155- left front speed sensor input circuit malfunction, C1145- right front speed sensor input circuit malfunction, C1233- wheel speed left front input signal missing, C1234- wheel speed right front input signal missing, C1158- left front speed sensor coherency malfunction, C1148- wheel speed sensor right front coherency malfunction, C1095- hydraulic pump motor circuit malfunction, and P0755- shift solenoid B malfunction. Can someone please help me with these codes? Also is the shift solenoid B the shift interlock solenoid?

 

[Bedrck47]

For that many codes to come up I would first check the fuses
Check fuse #13, #25 and #29 in the fuse box under the dash
Check fuse #14 in the fuse box in the engine compartment.

You can find the location and amp rating in your owners manual If you don't have the owners manual you can download a copy at
owner.ford.com

I am on my way out for a few hours, When I return I will post the codes and what they mean and possible cures

 

[Bedrck47]

When you check fuses use a meter not just your eyes check for voltage in and out of the fuse

 

[Deathwish0731]

Ok thanks I'll check them fuses again cause I checked them all and they were all good. The guy at advance told me to check fuse 23 I did that also and it was good. I don't have an voltage/amp meter I'll have to get one tomorrow after work. Thank you again. I'll let you know tomorrow how it worked out and what the situation is. If the fuse says 10a is that the amps that should be coming in and out? How do u know if it's good or not when you use a meter? Sorry I've never used a voltage/amp meter before.

 

[Bedrck47]

how good is your electrical troubleshooting skills as the procedures for testing are rather intense

if you look at the fuse on the top of the fuse you will see two small indents that can be used to test for voltage going into and out of the fuse

 

[Bedrck47]

check this thread as it will show how to test fuses

http://www.expeditionforum.com/f16/fuse-testing-101-a-24587/#post200023

 

[Deathwish0731]

Ok. I bought fuses from advance auto and it came with a yellow fuse puller that had 2 point things on it with a light and when I touched the fuses the light came on meaning that the fuse was good. After work I'm gonna go buy a meter and do it that way. I changed all the fuses to new ones that way I knew they were good. I was also thinking about bumping them up 5. Say it was a 10 I was gonna bump it up to a 15 but idk if that would be good to do or not. Do you think I should?

 

[Bedrck47]

don't change the amp ratings

 

[FordandPolaris]

Changing amp ratings means they may not blow out properly should there be a surge. This could lead to damage of the components.

Have you checked the speed sensors in the front wheel hubs physically? If the fuses are good, then you will need to test for power coming out of the sensor plugs on each of the wheel bearings. The sensors can be found leading into the wheel hub, and you can follow the wiring up to the plug near the frame rail. If the previous owner replaced the wheel hubs but did not know about installing or plugging in the speed sensors, that could be why it is throwing codes for both sides.

Here is a video to help with visualizing where the ABS/speed sensors are: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCr8XyTEGmQ

 

[Deathwish0731]

Hey guys. I just replaced the whole wheel hub I believe it was in May or June. I just got in from work like an hour ago and I just went outside and checked all 3 fuse panels and checked to see if all the right fuses were in there and I found that there was a wrong fuse in #18 under the dash. They are the mini fuses and someone put a 30a mini fuse in #18 when it calls for a 5a mini fuse. Which according to my owners Manuel #18 is Main Light Switch, Generic Electronic Module (GEM), Instrument Illumination ( Power supplied through main light switch) so I pulled the 30a fuse and put the right one in 5a. Also there is another fuse panel next to the one under the hood which has 5 fuses in it. I found in that fuse panel that #2 was blown so I replaced that one which is trailer tow stop/turn lamps. But I started my truck and my check engine light is off now but I haven't taken it for a ride yet to see if it comes back on or not and to see if my truck shifts fine not instead of me letting off the gas for it to shift from 1st to 2nd. Do you think that having the wrong fuse in #18 could be why the truck was throwing codes and stuff? Cause like I said now the check engine light is off.

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

But I started my truck and my check engine light is off now but I haven't taken it for a ride yet to see if it comes back on or not

any time you change something like that you should go for a test run so that you can know that it was THAT thing that fixed it or if it wasn't related. as unlikely as it may seem, waiting for another day to drive it after finding something may allow some environmental variable to change possibly masking the problem. highly unlikely but when it comes to diag I don't like to take any chances.. take her for a run to see if the problem has changed before making anymore changes so we may rule out/in that blown fuse.

 

[Bedrck47]

the small fuse block under the hood #2 fuse should be a 20A fuse

the #18 fuse under the dash should be a 5A fuse if the 30A fuse you replaced wasn't blown then there most likely wasn't a problem in that circuit.

Most of the codes that you listed in your original post have to do with the ABS system

However when you pulled the #18 fuse it would have removed voltage to the GEM and the GEM could have reset itself. Even though the CEL went out I would not be surprised if it returns. When you get a chance have the codes re-read to see what may still be present

 

[Bedrck47]

in the small fuse block under the hood did you by chance remove the #1 fuse to check it as that fuse is for the PCM keep alive memory and that could have caused the CEL to go out

when you get the codes re-read let us know if you get a P1000 CODE as that would indicate that the PCM was reset

 

[FordandPolaris]

I think the GEM tracks the ABS sensors, so it is possible. Not sure why a higher rated fuse would make a difference but as long as the light went off who cares. Glad it went away, let us know if it comes back.

 

[Deathwish0731]

So I took the truck for a ride and when I started it my check engine light was on again and I still have to let off the gas for it to shift from 1st to 2nd.

 

[stamp11127]

If you put in a larger fuse than what is rated for that particular circuit you are in a sense not protecting anything that is on that circuit. Fuses are a weak link in the chain, strengthen the link by upping the amp rating and you have now moved the weakest link to the wiring or the electronics.

As far as the shifting, how many miles are one the trans?