Coil Packs

[QbanCgar]

well quite some time i've been experiencing the dreaded "misfire" like most of us have @ one time or another. so i'm thinking of replacing all of my coil packs along w/ the plugs, what do my fellow forum members recommend? i don't need to go high end or performance as in all honestly she may be gone before year's end.

 

[bedrck46]

would all depend on how much you care to spend Check on e-bay

 

[QbanCgar]

would all depend on how much you care to spend Check on e-bay

yeah i checked there this morning, i've seem 'em as low as $65 all the way up to $500. guess i need to find a happy medium.

 

[bedrck46]

199 for a good set of ACCEL Super Coil 140032-8 from summitracing_sales

 

[srs7324]

Coil packs ebay

well quite some time i've been experiencing the dreaded "misfire" like most of us have @ one time or another. so i'm thinking of replacing all of my coil packs along w/ the plugs, what do my fellow forum members recommend? i don't need to go high end or performance as in all honestly she may be gone before year's end.

I replaced all my plugs, coils and fuel injectors last year.
The $60 injector set and a $65 coil set they all came from ebay and the ASP platinum plugs from NAPA.

I did not trust the new coils so I replaced the dreaded passenger rear coil with a 1 month old NAPA IC369SB coil I had purchased earlier just in case.

The injectors / coils and plugs worked great no issues, truck ran like a dream. I had kept my 4 used Motorcraft coils and a couple of new used NAPA coils as backup just in case.

So after about 3 months very light driving I got a hard miss, I had found that one of the new coils was bad, so ok replace out new with old spare and everything was fine.

BUT, after 6 months very light driving I got a stutter or slight miss at 750 to 1000 RPM at idle. You could slowly raise the RPM and the engine would act like it was struggling, as long as you got past 1000 ran like a champ.

Long story short I put my 4 FORD COILS back along with 4 NAPA IC369SB coils staggered and she runs fine again no low RPM stutter.

You get what you pay for.

 

[bedrck46]

You get what you pay for.[/QUOTE]

Well said but no matter what you pay you can always get a defective part

 

[QbanCgar]

what spark plugs are you currently using for those ACCELs?

 

[bedrck46]

I have been using autolites but most on here recommend Motorcraft I haven't changed my COP's yet but will go with the ACCEL Super Coils. Just waiting for warmer weather to do my tune up. Had to replace battery and T-stat this past week Engine was running on the cool side at 165 degrees Now running 195-205

 

[QbanCgar]

I have been using autolites but most on here recommend Motorcraft I haven't changed my COP's yet but will go with the ACCEL Super Coils. Just waiting for warmer weather to do my tune up. Had to replace battery and T-stat this past week Engine was running on the cool side at 165 degrees Now running 195-205

yeah originally noticed the misfiring in my truck a little after a month after purchasing the truck, so i have my wires & plugs changed, no problem. well a little over a year it has come back, so i'm assuming this time it could be the coil packs. so let me get this straight, are the coil packs & injectors 2 different parts?

 

[bedrck46]

yes

 

[bedrck46]

How many miles on the expy?

 

[QbanCgar]

is that a hand in hand repair whenever you do the coil packs?

 

[bedrck46]

not necessary to do both unless you have a need to change the injectors

 

[QbanCgar]

gotcha!

 

[srs7324]

The issue with COPs and injector is they are basically on top of each other.
There is almost not one COP replacement where you do not have to move or unplug the cable attached to the injector matched to the COP because it is in the way.

I was doing the complete COP, plug and injector install so just loosened the injector rails and it made it 100% easier to install the 8 new COPs and injectors.

 

[ricoperkins]

I just purchased a 2000 with 180k on the odometer and I have an issue with it starting. I have to turn the switch on and wait sometimes up to a minute and then start it. I do this sometimes once or up to 10 times. I can hear the fuel pump running and I have changed the fuel filter. Could the COP's be my issue?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[ricoperkins]

I just purchased a 2000 with 180k on the odometer and I have an issue with it starting. I have to turn the switch on and wait sometimes up to a minute and then start it. I do this sometimes once or up to 10 times. I can hear the fuel pump running and I have changed the fuel filter. Could the COP's be my issue?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]



Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[bedrck46]

Have you checked you fuel pressure just because you hear the pump running doesn't mean you have the correct presure also if you didn't start withing a few seconds the fuel pump should shut off you can check this by checking the voltage going to the fuel pump

 

[ricoperkins]

If I'm reading this right you are telling me that the voltage going to the fuel pump affects the fuel pressure?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[bedrck46]

wasn't what I was saying The circuit allows for full voltage to the fuel pump when starting if the engine does not fire up then the voltage is reduced to the fuel pump and it should not allow the pump to run If the engine does fire up then full voltage will be maintained to the pump

There is a fuel shut off switch located behind the right side kick panel. You can hook up a volt meter and turn the engine to start you should see the voltage and if the engine doesn't start you would see the voltage drop off.