Cracked windshield at 175 miles....

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1955moose

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And the thing is dealerships don't install front glass. Most don't at least.

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julijn

julijn

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Ok ...all done... back to normal...700 for the Oem stuff with all the sensors...he managed to transfer the union sticker..

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James W Moore

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took her on the highway for the first time for a soccer tournament and 30 miles in a rock jumps up and smacks the passenger corner...already grew to 6 inches just getting back home. Such a bummer. Getting quote now. This sucks but I think I’ll get the platinum glass if I can.

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an very old trick to stop it fast, clear nail polish. brush out the crack and fill it with nail polish. This is very similar to the repair some shops do with clear epoxy filler and a vacuum to stop and fill small cracks less than 1/2 inch. Anything larger will need a whole window replacement. In those cases I did the nail polish trick and CLEAR shipping tape. If you use duct tape it will work but will alert law enforcement quite quickly you have an issue and you may get pulled over for it. I did this to an older car and it lasted 3 years. This also works on a clear headlight to stop water from getting in. YOU MUST DO IT AS SOON AS YOU SEE IT. Driving will rattle and bump it and make it larger quickly. PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS if the window is spiderwebbed already. It is only a temp fix
 

3rd Expyowner123

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I have a Limited Trim, I inquired from an independent glass shop about the cost to replace the windshield to determine if I wanted to buy the dealer offered insurance. I was told the windshield was $600 and change. The glass shop said one reason it was so expensive is that so far there are no after Market windshields. Another safelite ship said that the OEM’s sometime have patents on windshields which keep aftermarket supplier out.
I did pay $25 to have my windshield coated which a chemical that is suppose to make it more resistive to cracking. I also got a rock chip on a road trip where I made an unscheduled stop to a glass shop to have it glued before a large crack developed. Hopefully the bonding works! It’s frustrating anytime windshields get damaged by rock chips, although it is a very common occurrence where I live.
 

Edistobob

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Ok ...all done... back to normal...700 for the Oem stuff with all the sensors...he managed to transfer the union sticker..


So, did I read your earlier posts correctly that Safelite did it with OEM glass and recalibrated? I'm asking because a stone met my windshield yesterday and of course it cracked.
 
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julijn

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So, did I read your earlier posts correctly that Safelite did it with OEM glass and recalibrated? I'm asking because a stone met my windshield yesterday and of course it cracked.
ahh bummer... it will be fine.. i was tripping at first...….no safelite had the after market stuff.. I got a glass shop that the dealer recommended. they did it and said the calibration was a thing that is necessary if you disconnect the camera...that makes it easier for the window installer to install since all he has to do is disconnect everything.. then he can charge you 300 bucks to recalibrate.but if you are and experienced installer you don't need to disconnect the camera..99% of the time it will be fine.. 1% of the time you'll have to recalibrate it..
 

Flexpedition

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Trying to wrap my pea-sized brain around the whole camera re-calibration thing. I can understand the need if the vehicle battery is left installed. And I get it - the camera needs to be installed in a very precise location. But is there really that much room for error?

So I did some searching, and it looks like some are suggesting a re-calibration anytime the vehicle has an alignment done. Anytime tire size is changed - larger or smaller. Anytime suspension parts, like springs/struts/shocks are changed. Yet somehow you can hook up a trailer, squat the rear to the ground, pointing the camera to the sky and all is well.

It gets worse. Side mirror mounted 360° around view cameras. Adjust the alignment of the door hinges and/or striker or catch mechanisms - re-calibrate system. Scratch an outside mirror housing and a body shop removes it to paint - re-calibrate. Remove the door panel to change speakers and accidentally unplug the camera harness - boom! Re-calibrating.

Yet on other Ford forums I follow, owners are adding front camera (obstacle detection, traffic sign recognition, parallel park assist, 180° display, adaptive cruise, etc) and are installing 100% DIY. Using FORScan and never a trip to the dealer.

Is this yet another dealer/mfg gotcha or is there really a genuine need?
 
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Blackscreen67

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Trying to wrap my pea-sized brain around the whole camera re-calibration thing. I can understand the need if the vehicle battery is left installed. And I get it - the camera needs to be installed in a very precise location. But is there really that much room for error?

So I did some searching, and it looks like some are suggesting a re-calibration anytime the vehicle has an alignment done. Anytime tire size is changed - larger or smaller. Anytime suspension parts, like springs/struts/shocks are changed. Yet somehow you can hook up a trailer, squat the rear to the ground, pointing the camera to the sky and all is well.

It gets worse. Side mirror mounted 360° around view cameras. Adjust the alignment of the door hinges and/or striker or catch mechanisms - re-calibrate system. Scratch an outside mirror housing and a body shop removes it to paint - re-calibrate. Remove the door panel to change speakers and accidentally unplug the camera harness - boom! Re-calibrating.

Yet on other Ford forums I follow, owners are adding front camera (obstacle detection, traffic sign recognition, parallel park assist, 180° display, adaptive cruise, etc) and are installing 100% DIY. Using FORScan and never a trip to the dealer.

Is this yet another dealer/mfg gotcha or is there really a genuine need?

This was funny...

Maybe this explains my horrible gas milege :33:
 
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