Drivers door lock - HELP!

[Racenut]

Recently my drivers door quit locking and unlocking with the switch, keypad or the remote. Today I finally got around to tearing the door apart and pulling out the actuator thinking that it was the culprit. After putting in a new actuator ( $80 ) it still wouldn't work so I tested the original on the battery with leads and it still works just fine. So I put the original back in and returned the new one, but I am wondering if anyone has had the same problem.

I have found that coming from the security control module ( pats, door keypad, and keyless entry fob. The same box that the keypad code is on ) that the drivers door lock use's a different wire ( RD/OG ) than the rest of the locks ( PK/OG )and I am guessing it is due to the being able to only unlock the drivers door or if you want then the rest with another push of the button. When I put my head under the dash and listen to the module while I use the fob, I can hear the relay inside the box click for the drivers door unlock and then again for the rest of the doors plus the click for lock so it seems to be working. I think.

My question is could it still be the module or more likley a broken set of wires in the door. It never had any issues and then one day just quit, It seems like if it was wires that it would act up for awhile then when the wires broke completely it would quit working but like I said there was never any issues until now.

Please any feed back would be greatly appreciated before I take this thing to the stealership to figure it out.

Thank's
Jason

Here are the wiring diagrams from Alldata:

 

[Racenut]

Any ideas? Anyone Please this thing is driving me nuts and I really don't want to drop $90 an hour for the stealership to diagnose.

 

[ELVATO]

You can manually move the lock itself, right? It's not stuck or anything?

Measure the voltage at the harness that goes to the actuator. First, measure the pink/black and ground when locking the truck. It should go to 12V. Then measure the red/orange and ground when unlocking. It should go to 12V.

 

[Racenut]

You can manually move the lock itself, right? It's not stuck or anything?

Measure the voltage at the harness that goes to the actuator. First, measure the pink/black and ground when locking the truck. It should go to 12V. Then measure the red/orange and ground when unlocking. It should go to 12V.

Yes I can move the lock by hand and with the key and it works smoothly. While I had the door apart, I used my multi meter and messured the V at the harness Red / Orange and Pink / Black got a big fat 0 .

Thats why I am wondering if it is maybe the Security module, like I said I can hear the relay click from the module but nothing happens. And how likely is it that two wires break at the same time and nothing else in the door is affected but the lock. All other functions on the drivers door work perfectly ( mem seat, power mirrors, power lock switch for the other doors, speaker, lights, power window switches, mirror turn signal). I am going to try a continuity test of the wires tomorrow.

Has anyone had problems with only one function of the Security module going out before?

Thanks for your response everything helps.