Error when Calibration Steering Angle Sensor (SAS)

[David E]

Hello to all, (2005 Expedition King Ranch 5.4 Triton)
After finally getting my Expy on the road and past inspection I now face another hiccup which I am in need of wisdom.
While using FORScan (paid version) to calibrate the Steering Wheel Angle Sensor I reach to the part where I am asked to turn the wheel Lock to Lock. (same on mobile and PC versions) Unfortunately I cannot pass that stage and get the below:


I can remember going through the process successfully when just got the car and went through other issues a while back. I did not change any of the ABS parameters nor did anything much in that direction.
This all started when I got a B1342 Code (cleared by itself right after I turned the car off and on again) Which I assume is initially a result of an intermittent power supply to the module (past history with electrical issues exist)
Don't know why I decided to go through a full abs module reset and calibration of the SAS. (nothing was wrong with it before nor do I get any codes besides calibration not complete code C1998-E0)

I tried all combinations of steering wheel "lock to lock" sequence and cant seem to get it right. Any advise would be highly appreciated.

 

[David E]

UPDATE: Now I have a permanent B1342, so got a replacement unit on the way and hope I can just replace the module without the pump itself. (saving some work on lines and bleeding). I shall update as I go.
Any input would be great..

 

[David E]

No inputs...
In the hope this thread helps others I shall update my progress and add -- Managed to just replace the ABS Module itself without the hassle of changing the pump and all that it entails. It is very important to find a direct fit with similar numbers since different cars have different setups (even it its the same year). Used FORScan to read and save the "as build" data and replace the unit. One can also download the "as build" data according to VIN from Ford website for free if need arises.
Still cannot seem to succeed in the calibration process and next I will follow the process as depicted in the shop manual volume 2. Also got me access to IDS with the right hardware to get it to work.
more to come as this develops.

 

[ZM189]

Hey David!

I'm currently having the same problem. Check AdvancTrac on, C-1998 Module Calibration failure code in the ABS module, and I do have a B2477-Module Configuration Failure code. If you've been able to solve your problem, please share your solution as I'm hitting the same dead-end with the Lock-to-Lock Procedure on Forscan.

As for background over my problem, and to be clear I'm no mechanic, but I do have a fair share of knowledge in cars, but I'm not experienced or much knowledgeable with module programming and calibration. I have an 06 Lincoln Navigator rwd 5.4L, has factory air suspension, no coil conversion. It got into a collision on the driver's side, destroying the suspension. So I replaced the whole suspension, new air strut, and new steering tie rod (inner and end), which as a result my alignment is mechanically off. After the repair, the C1998 code is present, and the vehicle is slammed on the ground won't raise up. That's when the diagnose began. I done dealt with the height sensors and fuses, and I can raise the vehicle manually w no problem by disconnecting the ride height sensor arm and raising it, all sides work like a charm, but once reconnected it goes back in place obviously. My thought is somehow the Air suspension is related to AdvanceTrac, so if an issue with ABS triggers, I think it prevents the ride heigh. Also, I've lately tried to reset the parameters with built-in, nothing changed and I think the parameters initially were the same as built-in anyway.

So ultimately the goal is to "Calibrate AdvanceTrac/IVD, to fix the C-1998 code. Part of that procedure is to "Calibrate Steering Angle Sensor (SAS), which basically is a steering lock-to-lock procedure, but instructions don't specify how to perform the lock-to-lock (e.g. center to left then right, left to right, right to left, basically the sequence). Being that something is causing this step to fail, thus further steps to calibrate the ABS module, I started looking into possible damage to the SAS, and steering position sensor (SPS), but I have no codes indicating an issue with them, Yaw rate Ininzalation status complete, with normal readings. So, I went on Dashboard and added those sensors for live readings, voltage 0-5 Volts and angle I believe to be +-450 degrees at either lock I think are the limits, my voltage reached 5.04V, and up to SWA 450 degree. I'm not sure exactly how to interpret the data, but assuming my readings were appropriate to the range, my only current guess is that the test failed because of bad alignment, which my assumption is the steering angle sensor is detecting that the wheels are not centered when the steering wheel is straight (detected by the steering position sensor to detected steering is centered or off?). My next step is to try and get the alignment within specs and try again.

 

[David E]

Hi ZM189, Sorry for the ate reply, being home with 4 kids 24/7 takes a toll...
Looking at your text please see below (It looks like it me and you... no others have show interest in this conundrum)

Hey David!

I'm currently having the same problem. Check AdvancTrac on, C-1998 Module Calibration failure code in the ABS module, and I do have a B2477-Module Configuration Failure code. If you've been able to solve your problem, please share your solution as I'm hitting the same dead-end with the Lock-to-Lock Procedure on Forscan. So far no luck with solving the issue.

As for background over my problem, and to be clear I'm no mechanic, but I do have a fair share of knowledge in cars, but I'm not experienced or much knowledgeable with module programming and calibration. I have an 06 Lincoln Navigator rwd 5.4L, has factory air suspension, no coil conversion. It got into a collision on the driver's side, destroying the suspension. So I replaced the whole suspension, new air strut, and new steering tie rod (inner and end), which as a result my alignment is mechanically off. After the repair, the C1998 code is present, and the vehicle is slammed on the ground won't raise up. That's when the diagnose began. I done dealt with the height sensors and fuses, and I can raise the vehicle manually w no problem by disconnecting the ride height sensor arm and raising it, all sides work like a charm, but once reconnected it goes back in place obviously. My thought is somehow the Air suspension is related to AdvanceTrac, so if an issue with ABS triggers, I think it prevents the ride heigh. Yes I believe you are right here. The AdvanceTrac controls quite a bit and is connected to many sensors which the ABS/IVD/RSC module controls to protect the driver and passengers. Also, I've lately tried to reset the parameters with built-in, nothing changed and I think the parameters initially were the same as built-in anyway. Same here. I actually installed a new Module and made sure it had the same data as shown through the VIN number from the Ford Website.

So ultimately the goal is to "Calibrate AdvanceTrac/IVD, to fix the C-1998 code. YES!!! (sounds pretty easy aint it. Part of that procedure is to "Calibrate Steering Angle Sensor (SAS), which basically is a steering lock-to-lock procedure, but instructions don't specify how to perform the lock-to-lock (e.g. center to left then right, left to right, right to left, basically the sequence). --- I have tried it all !! Being that something is causing this step to fail, thus further steps to calibrate the ABS module, I started looking into possible damage to the SAS, and steering position sensor (SPS), but I have no codes indicating an issue with them, Yaw rate Ininzalation status complete, with normal readings. So, I went on Dashboard and added those sensors for live readings, voltage 0-5 Volts and angle I believe to be +-450 degrees at either lock I think are the limits, my voltage reached 5.04V, and up to SWA 450 degree. I'm not sure exactly how to interpret the data, but assuming my readings were appropriate to the range, my only current guess is that the test failed because of bad alignment, which my assumption is the steering angle sensor is detecting that the wheels are not centered when the steering wheel is straight (detected by the steering position sensor to detected steering is centered or off?). Im not sure there. For me everything worked great till the module started to fail. With no change to alignment of the wheels nor any accident to change the alignment I still do not manage to get it to go through the SAS procedure. Looking at the sensors as you did It seems that the wheel is perfectly aligned showing 0 at midpoint and shifting as I turn to each side. Its the process that is not completing. I suspect a sensor or a wiring issue (my car does have wiring issues history). My next step is to try and get the alignment within specs and try again.

I even went ahead and purchased the special connector and IDS just to make sure and still wont complete the test. It seems like the "SIGNAL" for "TEST COMPLETE" is not being sent for some reason. Yet the steering wheel sensors seem to work great. I plan to now follow the stages in the "BIG BOOK" which I have also purchased and does hold quite a lot of information. Let me know if you are interested I can also have that information uploaded here.
I'm not sure an alignment would do the trick but please let me know if that works out...
All that said I will make sure I keep this post updated as I go. With snow and ice outdoors I stay indoors...
There seems to be a way through ForScan to initiate the signal for the SAS test "Clear" but I have yet to manage to figure that out and all who I have messaged (who had done this) have yet to reply with an answer. Our cars seems to also have different systems embedded with the AdvanceTrac but I believe to the details of the issues it is the same.
Good luck to us both. I will keep posted as I work on it.
Thanks for reaching out.

 

[ZM189]

What you suggested about IDS was going to be my next step, thanks for saving me the trouble, we have somewhat of a similar approach to this. I will keep my notifications on for this forum, till we bring this to an end, hopefully soon. I'm glad to find a place to share thoughts and get a second opinion who would understand what the situation is, most people I consulted suggested taking it to the dealer..

If you have the "big book" and can share it, please do. Understanding how this system works should help guide us where to look.

My vehicle has sat for a while, battery dead several times so DTC must've gotten cleared plenty times. My thought is although AdvancTrac off and it can barely be driven as its dropped low and rides very rough, but perhaps the sensors require readings for while the car is moving an addition go the readings from lock-to-lock. I'm trying to figure out how the sensors work with the system, simply in attempts to eliminate whether a problem is with the sensors function with the system, or not to move focus into another area to dive in. I wonder if yours is driving fine, sat, dead battery, etc?

What you mentioned about the test override is interesting, I have thought I've played around with the software enough hours in the matter to find a lead, please share updates over this manner.

 

[David E]

What you suggested about IDS was going to be my next step, thanks for saving me the trouble, we have somewhat of a similar approach to this. I will keep my notifications on for this forum, till we bring this to an end, hopefully soon. I'm glad to find a place to share thoughts and get a second opinion who would understand what the situation is, most people I consulted suggested taking it to the dealer..

If you have the "big book" and can share it, please do. Understanding how this system works should help guide us where to look.

My vehicle has sat for a while, battery dead several times so DTC must've gotten cleared plenty times. My thought is although AdvancTrac off and it can barely be driven as its dropped low and rides very rough, but perhaps the sensors require readings for while the car is moving an addition go the readings from lock-to-lock. I'm trying to figure out how the sensors work with the system, simply in attempts to eliminate whether a problem is with the sensors function with the system, or not to move focus into another area to dive in. I wonder if yours is driving fine, sat, dead battery, etc?

What you mentioned about the test override is interesting, I have thought I've played around with the software enough hours in the matter to find a lead, please share updates over this manner.

HI ZM189>>
Sorry for the very long delay... Had my Minivan on the ramps for about 1month now trying to get to some broken bolts in replacing some exhaust (and learning how to weld at the same time!!)
Looking at what you wrote I can say when I got the car I had it towed to the house and had a bunch of electrical issues. I know the Transmission was replaced and leaning towards some mishandling of wires there that caused a havoc. With a pretty concrete short to ground that might have caused some damage all around. Unfortunately car electrical systems is my Kryptonite. I believe my expedition as well did not drive for a long time. Now after driving it for a while now (my wife really since that minivan is down) I can see other issues arise... Mainly emissions code and evap issues. (all have been sorted out now..)
Yet in the end we are always back to the calibration issue that is not going away. I have noticed that after ignoring it for a while the advancetrac goes back and no alarms (the code however still exist).
I need to get the expedition and my minivan through emissions first then I start working on it as well as getting it ready for towing (7pin install with a brake controller).
Let me know if any other help I can offer and hope that works out for both of us.
I tried to load the file on here but it wouldn't let me so see below where you can get it. Thanks:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Expeditiontroubleshooting/permalink/2931320053810886

 

[ZM189]

Hey David!

I have managed to resolve the problem on mine (I think) and successfully passed the Calibration. So in my case as I mentioned I had no other codes, I got a year subscription for a workshop manual and followed the book diagnose procedure (Test H? I think). This consisted of reading PID's to determine sensors function, which my PIDs read perfect values (no bad sensors). Followed in the diagnose I tested certain connection (pin terminals on the abs module to sensors under middle console) a few different tests of resistance, etc. the book had suggested specific tools to test for the connection, but honestly I managed to diagnose with a regular multimeter and some wires just fine. My results were also good, so the procedure did not really point out any faults. The last suggestion in the book was to replace the ABS module, re-program, etc. I did not change that, instead i decided to take it out (suspension was disabled because of advancedtrac so it was slammed, but i wanted it to cycle as the battery died many times). Anyway, I drove it outside and left for a couple minutes to let it warm up, and I came back with the car lifted up! On its own for the first time lol. So took it for a drive on empty roads, then I went back and hooked it up. Reset dtc (C1998 remained), went to the calibration procedure and failed the first time! (Turned steering too fast i was done w lock to lock too early), almost left it as i got used to seeing that, but decided to give it a last attempt. I performed the test again and this is what I recall doing (its been a while). First I had the Steering dead center (0 degrees) i literally checked pid before started the test lol. Then I believe went Center-to-Right-lock, probably held for a moment (probably a second or leas) then, Right-to-left-lock. I can't recall if i left it after or got it back to center and i'm afraid to try it and get the code again lol. But I did it so that I'm done with the lock-to-lock somewhat at the same time as on the screen (the green progress bar for the procedure on the screen). It passed! And the suspension is riding normal now, i just need to get an alignment (mine is like half a turn off lol) and probably some tlc, fresh fluids etc. Thanks for offering help, but since mine is ok for now, let me know if i can help as i still have the workshop manual.

I dealt with a stipped nut for the transmission mounts on a minivan once (stupid design the bolts were inside a hole in the subframe!) I had no access to it so my options were very limited, heat is your friend here, flame up but be careful and cover what can get ignited or damaged.

 

[BlackCoffee]

Did the whole front end on my 2003 Ford Expy EB. Needed an upper ball joint, so I did upper, lower, strut assemblies. While there, I did the speed sensors. Now I have the C-1998 calibration and C-1730. I will do the pinpoint tests on the C-1730 which appear to look at the pressure sensor (should be good, new master cylinder about 18 months ago) and pedal travel sensor. However, the C-1998 calls for an ABS module calibration. Never done that. Any help or guidance on how to do the calibration. I did do the lock to lock, that didn't clear it.

 

[David E]

Did the whole front end on my 2003 Ford Expy EB. Needed an upper ball joint, so I did upper, lower, strut assemblies. While there, I did the speed sensors. Now I have the C-1998 calibration and C-1730. I will do the pinpoint tests on the C-1730 which appear to look at the pressure sensor (should be good, new master cylinder about 18 months ago) and pedal travel sensor. However, the C-1998 calls for an ABS module calibration. Never done that. Any help or guidance on how to do the calibration. I did do the lock to lock, that didn't clear it.

Hi there.
To calibrate the steering wheel you need either IDS of FORScan. Both will do the job if ... Al parts are working right. Look at ZM189 text above, and please let me know if you managed to get it done and how!
Unfortunately for me.. I could not replicate ZM189 solution. At the same time didn't get a chance to deal with it much too. Have to get all my cars through emissions now that Covid19 extensions are over. Have some issues with the Fuel Tank Sensor now so now focusing on that to get it through emissions...
After emissions is covered il get back to the steering.. (never ending story...)
Good luck and keep us posted (also if you need any info from the book!)

 

[BlackCoffee]

OK, time to get into the weeds. I lost all communication with my old ABS module. Got it back momentarily, but now it won't talk with the scanner. It is accompanied by the flashing AdvanTrack skid marks. So, as any red blooded American male on holiday, I went to visit my favorite junk yard dog and pulled an ABS/HCU from an Expedition in it's final resting place. Put it in and hooked up the unit (didn't do the brake lines yet) and now the scanner can talk to the ABS module. Here is the rub, my original unit has a part number of 2L1T-2C219-EA. It is a 2003 EB production date 10/2002. The one I pulled is from a 2003 XLT, production date 03/2003. It has a part number of 3L1T-2C219-CB. I figure this is just the firmware flash. I get an error code for VIN mis-match.( good sign it communicates). Also, the part came out smoothly on the junk yard vehicle, it may have been replaced at one time.

Here is the question. Can I get it flashed off the car? If not, can I install it and take it somewhere to get the right flash? Pretty close to having it fixed, just not there yet.

 

[David E]

OK, time to get into the weeds. I lost all communication with my old ABS module. Got it back momentarily, but now it won't talk with the scanner. It is accompanied by the flashing AdvanTrack skid marks. So, as any red blooded American male on holiday, I went to visit my favorite junk yard dog and pulled an ABS/HCU from an Expedition in it's final resting place. Put it in and hooked up the unit (didn't do the brake lines yet) and now the scanner can talk to the ABS module. Here is the rub, my original unit has a part number of 2L1T-2C219-EA. It is a 2003 EB production date 10/2002. The one I pulled is from a 2003 XLT, production date 03/2003. It has a part number of 3L1T-2C219-CB. I figure this is just the firmware flash. I get an error code for VIN mis-match.( good sign it communicates). Also, the part came out smoothly on the junk yard vehicle, it may have been replaced at one time.

Here is the question. Can I get it flashed off the car? If not, can I install it and take it somewhere to get the right flash? Pretty close to having it fixed, just not there yet.

You can flash it once connected to the car using FORScan. I believe you might need one of their approved OBD connectors as well most updated version of software (worked for me with the wired one that have the toggle switch and using the computer.)
You wanna make sure the ABS Module matches your car! Not all have same features. you need to look for 2x4/4x4/TSC(I think that's the AdvanceTrac) that matches your car in additional to the serial mentioned in your post.
Go on the below link input your car VIN number and you will get the As Build Data for the ABS module. (amongst other) Use that to program your New(Old) one.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt

There are some Videos on how to do it through FORScan if you not sure what you doing take your time. you can always reset the module if need be. Wrong data however can be unsafe on such a system.
The above is just one of many. Also just to mention -- you can only replace the ABS module without the hassle of the pump itself. it comes apart pretty easility and goes back together pretty easily. That would save you bleeding the system after opening the lines.
Hope it all works out. Good luck!

 

[BlackCoffee]

You can flash it once connected to the car using FORScan. I believe you might need one of their approved OBD connectors as well most updated version of software (worked for me with the wired one that have the toggle switch and using the computer.)

Thanks, time to learn something new and take the next step. I have seen references to FORScan before, but never had the need to flash one of the systems. I have used engine loaders like SCT Livewire to put a tune on, but not had the need to go further. I will download the program, get the OBD connector, and see what happens.

Thanks for all the help...

 

[BlackCoffee]

You can flash it once connected to the car using FORScan. I believe you might need one of their approved OBD connectors as well most updated version of software (worked for me with the wired one that have the toggle switch and using the computer.)
You wanna make sure the ABS Module matches your car! Not all have same features. you need to look for 2x4/4x4/TSC(I think that's the AdvanceTrac) that matches your car in additional to the serial mentioned in your post.
Go on the below link input your car VIN number and you will get the As Build Data for the ABS module. (amongst other) Use that to program your New(Old) one.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt

There are some Videos on how to do it through FORScan if you not sure what you doing take your time. you can always reset the module if need be. Wrong data however can be unsafe on such a system.
The above is just one of many. Also just to mention -- you can only replace the ABS module without the hassle of the pump itself. it comes apart pretty easility and goes back together pretty easily. That would save you bleeding the system after opening the lines.
Hope it all works out. Good luck!

I ended up buying a third car while I put the Expedition back in shape. Hit a deer, talked the insurance company out of salvage, replaced the front bumper cover, grill, lights, light support, and hood. Just finished the paint job. Not perfect, but better than half the body shops.

So, the last thing is the AdvancTrak light. Always on. I have Forscan and it is talking to the vehicle. I do not see the ABS module, but I have not gotten the extended license yet. Plan to purchase that and see what happens. I did get the as-built file for my VIN from Ford. One *.ab file for the vehicle. Can you point me to the videos that will allow me to reprogram or initialize the ABS module to try and solve my AdvancTrak problem?

Thanks in advance for all the help. We owners of the 2nd gen Expedition are facing fading information and disappearing part. The salvage yards are getting stripped bare.

 

[David E]

Hi BlackCoffee>> It is true parts like the ABS module are harder to find as time goes by. I don't believe there is an initialization process to the module. If it is not recognized then something might be wrong. You can get the full license for free for a limited amount of time. The file downloaded can be used to program the module. See below link: (not the best but shows you the areas you looking for)

2008 ford escape: B2900 ABS VIN MISMATCH (using FORSCAN and vci100)

Using FORSCAN to program VIN into ABS MODULE

www.youtube.com

I would start with a module reset, then you go to the ABS module configuration data -- As Build Data. It will open a new tab for you. (you can track the program moves under the LOG tab)
Also if possible always save current data under the save button left bottom of the screen.
You can use the LOAD ALL button to load up the file corresponding to your VIN. (or manually input the parameters in their respectful places)
You should be getting codes even if the module is not good. What are your codes?
Good luck

 

[BlackCoffee]

On to the next step in the saga. I took it to Ford and they got as far as I did. Pinpoint test passed, need a new ECU since it is not communicating. No Ford Replacement, but remanufactured replacement from autoecms.com. The Parts Guy and I get along, no surprise since I own a 2003 EB, so he suggested I go directly to them. Good news is, $100 cheaper, I can recoup core charge, another $100, and if it still doesn't work I can return the module for a restock fee of $75 + shipping. So, it was worth the gamble. If I had to pay Ford to do it, and I am not complaining because they are a business, I could be out $1100 and still not fixed. So in the end, it is about a $100 parts risk at this point. If it communicates, on to ForScan.

 

[David E]

On to the next step in the saga. I took it to Ford and they got as far as I did. Pinpoint test passed, need a new ECU since it is not communicating. No Ford Replacement, but remanufactured replacement from autoecms.com. The Parts Guy and I get along, no surprise since I own a 2003 EB, so he suggested I go directly to them. Good news is, $100 cheaper, I can recoup core charge, another $100, and if it still doesn't work I can return the module for a restock fee of $75 + shipping. So, it was worth the gamble. If I had to pay Ford to do it, and I am not complaining because they are a business, I could be out $1100 and still not fixed. So in the end, it is about a $100 parts risk at this point. If it communicates, on to ForScan.

Hi there, It looks like these guys are pretty expensive. How much did you end up paying for the module? Junk yard its around $100 including the pump. (cut and go) I use LKQ pick your part. They have an app for the phone and I get to set notifications when new cars arrive. I can also see on the pictures if it has AdvanceTRAC. Since its pretty specific to them modules. Good luck and keep us posted.
I have yet to resolve this issue. Although very pleased to say now it is my only issue (asides to cosmetics)

 

[BlackCoffee]

Hi there, It looks like these guys are pretty expensive. How much did you end up paying for the module? Junk yard its around $100 including the pump. (cut and go) I use LKQ pick your part. They have an app for the phone and I get to set notifications when new cars arrive. I can also see on the pictures if it has AdvanceTRAC. Since its pretty specific to them modules. Good luck and keep us posted.
I have yet to resolve this issue. Although very pleased to say now it is my only issue (asides to cosmetics)

As you know 2003 Expedition parts are getting hard to find. I did pick up a ECU with HCU last time I was picking parts for $50 off a 2004 Expedition 4x4 XLT. It responded once on the scanner only to tell me it was not a match for the VIN. After that, I couldn't talk to it any more. The Ford parts guy checked and said it would not cross to a 2003 EB. So, I went with the one recommended. If it works, it will be $425. If not, it will be $75 restock plus return shipping.