Exhaust

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NC-Expy

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So currently I have my rear 2 cats deleted and true duals with flowmaster super 10's...

Would swapping my FRONT 2 OEM cats with Maggies make it a little louder? Or will the $200 exhaust job not do anything for me?

Also as far as sound goes for these 5.4's would you recommend an H pipe, X pipe, or neither?
 

01yellerCobra

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I think putting any kind of cats on will keep it quiet. But the Maggies will flow better then your stockers. I didn't have cats on the Cobra for a long time and finally put some back on to make it more liveable on the freeway. I believe an H or an X pipe would be beneficial. The main difference seems to be the sound. In my experience the H give a more low rumble. The X is supposed to be more like a Nascar sound if that makes sense.
 

GAINMOB

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is the super 10's the loudest? i was looking on the site before and cant remember...next spring i will be going with a louder flowmaster and duals under the IRS
 
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NC-Expy

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I think putting any kind of cats on will keep it quiet. But the Maggies will flow better then your stockers. I didn't have cats on the Cobra for a long time and finally put some back on to make it more liveable on the freeway. I believe an H or an X pipe would be beneficial. The main difference seems to be the sound. In my experience the H give a more low rumble. The X is supposed to be more like a Nascar sound if that makes sense.

Yeah I'm sure it won't make it quieter seeing as how I'm replacing the OEM cats with hi-flow cats... still leaving the rear 2 out, I just need to make sure it won't throw any codes or anything.

And I think I'd choose Nascar over low rumble lol
 
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is the super 10's the loudest? i was looking on the site before and cant remember...next spring i will be going with a louder flowmaster and duals under the IRS

Yes, the Flowmaster Super 10 single chambered muffler IS the loudest muffler that Flowmaster manufactures.
 

GAINMOB

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k...so im going 10's cat delete...with the delete...i found cats that have the both 02 sensors on it...does anyone foresee any probs with this blowing codes? will complete in the spring
 
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If you are going for loud why not glass pack mufflers? The cheaper the louder too.

Don't like the sound of Glasspack's. If I did I would have them, not looking to change my mufflers, looking to change things like cats, piping, etc...
 
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k...so im going 10's cat delete...with the delete...i found cats that have the both 02 sensors on it...does anyone foresee any probs with this blowing codes? will complete in the spring

Don't think you'll run into problems as long as you have 02 sensors, but don't know if the computer will like it very much. Someone else probably will know.
 

Thermo

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Listen to the video. It does a pretty good explanation of the difference between X and H pipes. But, like he mentions, back pressure is key with engines, especially with truck engines. A freer flowing exhaust is great for 5,000 RPM power, but it can kill our 2,000 RPM power. Where do you drive your truck at? 5,000 RPM or 2,000 RPM? You may find that if you are worried about mileage, the "super" free flowing systems will drive your mileage down because your motor is making less power in the lower RPMs, so, you are having to put your foot into the gas to make the same power. In a lot of cases, you are wanting more power to get up to speed faster, so, you are putting your foot into it even more, compounding the issue. This is especially noticeable during in town driving.

Now, am I saying that Ford has created the perfect exhaust system and there is no need to improve it to make it more efficient. By no means. The factory system is truely designed around minimizing noise as the primary consideration with trying to get as much efficiency out of the motor as a secondary thing.

So, with this being said (and as is talked about in the video), placement of components and what you use is a function of what your vehicle needs. The exhaust system for a truck like what I have is completely different than what someone may put in to a Lightning for strip use. Question is, how do you use your truck? The components that you pick are going to have some effect on the exhaust note you get out, but for the most part, the last 3 feet or so of your exhaust is going to depict whether you get the low rumble or some other sound. The muffler is going to also play some part in this as the noise you hear is a function of how much the pulses are minimized and turned into a continual flow of air. In theory, if you can take the pulses of air coming out of the motor and remove the pulses to make it all one constant stream of air (all of it moving at the same speed), you would have a very free flowing exhaust that makes no noise. The problem is, to get rid of the pulses, you have to provide some restriction to the air to force the pulse into the valley between the pulses to smooth things out.

To get a bit more into the X pipe way of working. Pick up a soda bottle and blow across the top of the bottle. I bet you heard it make a noise. What is happening is as you blow across the top of the bottle, your breathe is pulling some of the air out of the bottle (scavaging) and then once the vacuum inside of the bottle reaches a certain point, it will suck in a bunch of air to get back to the pressure it was at before you started blowing. It is doing this many, many times a second. Kinda like if you do this with a 20 ounce bottle and a 2 liter, you will notice that the 2 liter has a lower sound to it. It is equalizing the pressure fewer times a second. The X-pipe is doing this by taking the exhaust from one side of the motor and "blowing" across the header for the other side of the motor, drawing a vacuum on that side. Very simple idea.

I am sure you are asking why am I bringing pop bottles into this? Simple, the diameter of your exhaust pipes, the length of tubing between the motor and where the X-pipe is affects how big your "bottle" is. If you have large diameter piping and a lot of distance between the X-pipe and the motor, it is going to act like a big bottle and provide great scavaging at low frequencies (or, in the case of the motor, low RPM). But, because it has a specific point it wants to work at, when you get up in high RPM, it is not going to be as effective. The big trick is figuring out how to size the volume of pipe (both diameter and length) such that the X-pipe provides the maximum amount of scavaging at where you want the most power. The idea is, you want the pipe to be at the biggest vacuum on the side that is going to be opening the exhaust valve at that split second before the exhaust valve opens so you have the biggest differential pressure between the cylinder and the exhaust system. This will cause the cylinder to clear out the fastest possible, allowing you to put more fresh air/fuel in for the next time.

Here is where people get into trouble. It is great that you are making an exhaust system that cleans out the cylinders great and can move the exhaust quickly down the exhaust pipe. But, what ends up happening is the fuel does not burn instantaneously. It takes a finite amount of time for all the fuel to burn. In a lot of cases, the cylinder is still in a full flame condition as the exhaust valve is opening. So, you have fuel being burned inside the exhaust header and pipe. If you get this flame down to the O2 sensors, it is going to cause them to see the motor as not running efficiently, throwing codes.

Is there some magical exhaust setup. By no means. People that are way smarter than me get paid big bucks to try and maximize power and not cause the computer to have fits too. There is no simple "if I do this, will I cause the computer to have problems" answer. Some times you have to do something and see what happens.

For those that are looking at Nascar exhaust systems, you will note that the X-pipe is mounted quite a ways from the motor with very large diameter piping. This has to do with harmonics. I don't want to get into this as you will find it will make your head hurt (imagine high and low pressures inside the same pipe with vacuum pulses travelling towards the motor and pressure pulses leaving the motor, their interactions, etc, etc, etc). There is some science there and it does work. But, it can also do as much good as it can create bad too.
 
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hammerg26

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OK - so all that being said, if I use my truck as a daily driver, with some mild off-roading and camping, etc., what sort of set up should to switch to? I would love to get rid of the stock "restrictions", etc.

Hammer
 

Thermo

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hammerg26, the setup I went with was to cut the Y-pipe off of the truck, extend the 2.5" pipes coming off of the exhaust headers back to a dual in/dual out (DIDO) muffler and then run dual 2.5" pipes out the back of the truck. As for the muffler that I went with, I used a Flowmaster DIDO 70 series muffler. So, my crossing of exhaust gases occurs clear back at the muffler, near the rear axle. The exhaust is slightly louder than stock until I put my foot into it, then you know I have something more than just the stock exhaust, but it isn't something that you are going to draw attention from a mile away. This setup has gotten me to the point that I have 80% of my max torque down to 1800 RPM (for a 97, that is pretty good, but keep in mind that I have a few other mods to the engine done too) as measured on a dyno and I am capable of chirping 37" tires.

If I was to make any change to the exhaust system, I would probably install a set of long tube headers and then an X-pipe at the point where the Y-pipe was removed. The long tube headers are going to net you more low end grunt (about 30-40 more ft-lbs assuming everything else is the same) and also work pretty good with the X-pipe in maximizing the scavaging effect.
 

hammerg26

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Sounds like a good set up - do you mind if I ask the cost? I can figure out the cost of on the Flowmaster (I actually prefer Dynomax Superflo)... but the rest of that is variable.

Hammer
 

Thermo

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hammerg, I paid $300 to have custom bent tubing put on my truck ($200 for the tubing, $100 for the muffler). But, please keep in mind that I did this back in 2000. So, I am sure the price is a little bit more. I am sure you can get an X-pipe put in for around $50 if you are having it done with the rest of the pipe. So, I would guess today you could probably get it all done for around $450 or so.

As for the long tube headers. That is a significant lump of change. Plan on spending about $800 just for the headers. If you pay someone to install them for you, add another $400 or so to the job.

So, your call as to how much you actually do. If you are thinking about going with the shorty headers due to cost, DON'T!!!!!!!! It is the general consensus around here that shorty headers net you very little, if anything at all. some members have had decent results, but they are the minority, not the majority. I am not sure what the difference was, but you can take it from there.
 
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hammerg26

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Thanks. Not looking at changing headers at this time. Was just looking to free up a little exhaust, put in a good tone, and I like the look of dual exhausts... just planning. >:)
 
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