jasonlmarsh
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I'm all about the output. I'm fairly happy with the output of the 3000k 35w HID's, I just think it will be a lot cleaner of an output coming from a projector housing.
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The issue with LED fog bulbs is whether or not you want to use them for light or for looks. All the LED fog light bulbs I have seen aren't full-brightness replacements, but are just used for style and color-matching to HID headlamps.
However, if you don't need the light output, it can be a lot cheaper than going HID for the fog lights!
I think it's the way the housing is on the truck. My right headlight cutoff is also a bit to the right as well. The projectors are bolted to the reflector and the way the lock nut secures the projector, it forces the projector to be aligned with the original bulb socket.
I'm using aftermarket housings and they fit fine, however both of them had broken off the metal clip on the rear. I JB welded the clips back on while I was in there and they are holding up now. You might make sure the clips are fully seated in their sockets. Also, I think you can bend that bracket behind the light (the bracket that it clips into). So it could be out of alignment. Actually that might be why we both have a little bit of horizontal aim issues. Maybe we both should look at that...
A big brick wall. I saw where my wife's RX350 cutoff was, and set mine to be the same. Also got them as level as possible by aligning the cutoff with the bricks horizontally.
LOL, yes being a perfectionist can be a real monkey on your back. I have the same problem.
Yea I switched from 35w to 55w and it made a big difference. I seem to remember that bracket behind the headlight is adjustable. I think there were 2 bolts that you can loosen, adjust the bracket, and retighten.Thanks for the info! I pulled the RT housing out so the rear outside clip is now resting on the bracket instead of being pushed all the way in. That seems to have helped, I didn't have to shim it, and it looks better on the truck. If there was a way to adjust the inner bowl pivot mount stud on that side, that would be abetter option, but this will work for now.
I'll look at the mount bracket as well, but its a part of the fender, so I'm leery about bending it too much. I did align them according to all the instructions on the web, and that's also helped, but I might try the brick wall idea for tweaking purposes.
I'm also going to bump to 55W 4300 bulbs for a little more light; the 35W 5k bulbs still seem a little dim to me, but I'll do that after I tweak the adjustments.
Yea I've seen those on a Raptor around here and they are very nice / expensive... I might consider that if they made a round version, but I couldn't find anything round on the site and I just dont think square would look right in the round bumper opening. Oh, I'm also wanting to stay with the 3000k color for fog/rain/snow conditions.Im not talking about ebay crap... Im talking about rigid industries kit for the raptor. All runner trucks are running led's now. You cannot get any brighter then it.
Rigid Raptor Lighting Systems - FORD RAPTOR FORUM - Ford SVT Raptor Forums - Ford Raptor
Im not talking about ebay crap... Im talking about rigid industries kit for the raptor. All runner trucks are running led's now. You cannot get any brighter then it.
Rigid Raptor Lighting Systems - FORD RAPTOR FORUM - Ford SVT Raptor Forums - Ford Raptor
I agree that Rigid makes some kicking LED fog/running lights. But trying to integrate them into a stock bumper would be very difficult. That's why I raised the point of light output. I haven't found a replacement LED bulb anywhere (not just eBay) that comes close to halogen output levels. Note that I have been looking for my car, not my Expedition, but the same principle applies.
Rigid is using multi-cree LED arrangements to get their light output. But that requires a good bit of space, as the crees have to be in a grid, not attached to a bulb stalk like a replacement bulb is set up. The brightest replacement bulbs I have found are single-cree (or 1 front-facing cree and two or three side-mount SMD's), but they don't come close to bright enough for serious fog light usage.
If I wanted to dump some serious coin, I would get two of the Rigid bars (probably 4" or 6") and mount them in the lower grill opening. Then I would pull the factory fog lights and cover over/flush fill the openings. Repaint, and a nice looking front end with serious LED driving lights. But, alas, I have other more prudent uses for the cash that isn't burning a hole in my pants!
Thank you sir!Those lights came out great!
I am hoping to accomplish this retrofit over the next month or so as long as side work keeps flowing in and I don't get bent over on taxes.
Also, just spit balling here... does anyone see this being a viable option for the fog lights?
SuperBrightLEDs
Also, while we are on the subject of fog lights, has anyone found an effective way of keeping the fogs on with the highs? I was thinking about diode isolating a relay based circuit triggered with the high beam power lead.
Yea it seems to drop off on the driver side. I'm not sure if this is an alignment issue, or just a cheap projector. If I level up the cutoff on the left side, it drops further on the right. So I just centered it as best a I could.
Im not talking about ebay crap... Im talking about rigid industries kit for the raptor. All runner trucks are running led's now. You cannot get any brighter then it.
Rigid Raptor Lighting Systems - FORD RAPTOR FORUM - Ford SVT Raptor Forums - Ford Raptor
To be honest, it bothered me about 2 days and I don't even notice it anymore. When the weather improves I am thinking about taking them back apart and painting the chrome reflectors. If I do that I"ll probably align the projectors so that the outermost portions of the cutoff are level, since you really cant see the middle/inner part of the cutoff, it wont matter if that part drops off.As with you and seemingly everyone else in this thread, I'm somewhat a perfectionist and I'm really **** about things looking right. Is it noticeable when you're not driving up to a flat surface? I've been considering getting the whole kit from TFS rather than the cheap eBay Morimoto knock-offs hoping to avoid these kinds of issues.
I was originally planning on sending them to Brian @ SickHIDs but I just can't be without a set of lights for 6-8 weeks while my A4 is put up for the winter.
EDIT - A GOOD READ OVER AT TFS - Clicky and go about halfway down - explains the drop on the driver side
Thanks guys! I agree the mini's would not fit in the fogs, they are about 5.25" length and the fogs are only about 2" deep. So I'm going to have to find somethig that can be exposed to the elements on the back side. I'm trying to decide between Ford Fusion, Hella DE, or Blazer's.
Those would definitely be smaller and probably easier to install, but from what all I read, they were a limited run and you can't get them anymore. Maybe not the case, but they weren't on the website when I was shopping. I've actually just received a set of 3" lens projectors today. I'm going to put those in the heads and move the mini's down to the fogs. I'm still trying to decide if I want to paint the reflector bowl black, and keep a chrome shroud.... Or paint the reflector bowl white to match the truck, and paint the shrouds black.I am in touch with TRS about a similar project that I'm working on for my daily driver, an Accord Coupe. The Morimoto Matchbox may be what you're looking for. I think the whole kit will be around 270, and just the projectors around $120. They are going to be selling them again towards the end of the month. It may be what you need for your fog housing?
Measurements:
Length - 4.4"
Width - 3"
Height - 2.1 to 2.2"
Lens size - 1.8"
Here is a thread TRS pointed me towards for dimensions. These may fit into your fog housing.
Morimoto Matchbox projectors (pics and measurements inside)
Mini H1 vs Matchbox:
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