Help! Won't start!!

[docraymund]

If you still have a starting problem, it may be caused by a worn ignition switch. Try starting it again this time hold it in the RUN position and slightly wiggle the key. The contacts in the ignition switch might not be engaging.
This is courtesy of: Ford tech Makuloco -watch his vid on youtube -no crank no start problems.

 

[jacks3am]

Does it click at all? I'm going with a starter, keep us posted

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

 

[Solefly87]

Hey guys. Sorry for not posting. I've been real busy this week with work.
Well I haven't really been able to do much other than change parts out and hoping it works lol. Luckily I have "store credit" at a nearby auto parts store and was able to pick up a new starter. When I swapped the starters out, it cranked right up. Worked fine for a couple days. Then one day when I tried to start it, it wouldn't start. Sameeee as last time. No clicks or crank. Lights radio ac and everything else works. I have to touch the two big post on the solenoid relay(firewall) to get it to start. The solenoid relay has been changed already. First thing I tried. I get continuity on the little wire (ignition switch wire?) that connects to the smaller post of the solenoid relay. My battery is good.
I've tried the whole wiggle the key thing to no avail.
Any ideas?
People seem to get pretty suspicious when they see a big ol man with a big ol beard starting a car with a screw driver lol.

 

[docraymund]

Have someone hold the ignition key in the run position disconnect the little wire and check for 12 volts with a multimeter

 

[stamp11127]

Do you have a test light or dmm?

 

[Solefly87]

Do you have a test light or dmm?

I have both. I just checked for voltage and I do get 12v

 

[stamp11127]

Since you are getting 12v on the low current side of the starter relay (little wire), then the little wire back to ground is suspect. You can check this by using the voltage drop testing method.

On the other little wire at the starter solenoid place your red lead on the threads - clean connection, black lead goes on the negative battery post. Meter is set to DC volts. Reading should be .1v or less while cranking the engine. Anything above that indicates a problem.

 

[Solefly87]

Since you are getting 12v on the low current side of the starter relay (little wire), then the little wire back to ground is suspect. You can check this by using the voltage drop testing method.

On the other little wire at the starter solenoid place your red lead on the threads - clean connection, black lead goes on the negative battery post. Meter is set to DC volts. Reading should be .1v or less while cranking the engine. Anything above that indicates a problem.

Which other little wire? The starter solenoid on the firewall has wires going to the two big post and only one little wire going to the little post. The other little post has no wire.
Or the little wire running down to the solenoid on the actual starter itself under the car?

 

[stamp11127]

In that case the mounting screw or bolt that mounts it to the firewall is the ground connection. See the attached, the ground symbol is shown on the diagram.

 

[Solefly87]

In that case the mounting screw or bolt that mounts it to the firewall is the ground connection. See the attached, the ground symbol is shown on the diagram.

I just rechecked the ignition switch wire on the relay located on the firewall. Without turning the key I am getting 4.48v. Then when I hit the switch I get 4.51...? Is it my ignition switch?

 

[stamp11127]

The reading you are getting is incorrect for a few reasons.

First - there should be 0 volts until the ignition switch is turned to the start position.

Second - the reading should be what the source battery voltage is or within .5v of it.

You can look at this two ways, the reading is correct or it is incorrect. To check which one, we need to know the voltage at fuse 21 in the central junction box. It should be rated 15a and read battery voltage on one side when the ignition switch is turned to "start". You can pull the fuse to test - we do not need the engine running at this point. Red lead is used in the fuse box, black will be on chassis ground, meter set to DC volts.

With the fuse pulled you can read the voltage again on the small wire at the starter solenoid. You should read 0 volts. If any other reading, the meter is suspect or possible back feed from the GEM.

 

[Bedrck47]

Look at the prints I posted Then use your volt meter and put one lead on ground and the other lead onto fuse 21 in the CJB then turn the key on you should have 12 volts then check the other side of the fuse doing the same as above

 

[Solefly87]

Update

Look at the prints I posted Then use your volt meter and put one lead on ground and the other lead onto fuse 21 in the CJB then turn the key on you should have 12 volts then check the other side of the fuse doing the same as above

So I haven't had no time once again to mess with the expo and the starting problem. I moved to another state, so working and trying to move is easy.
Butttt... shes been so weird. For a whole day it started with me turning the key, no problem. The next day, it doesn't start. Same symptoms.
Today I switched the key to ignition and nothing, I slam the key hard all the way back (to the point where the car isn't running, but the radio plays for a little until you open your door) and then turn it all the way to ignition and bam. It started.
By the way, the ignition switch, starter relay(on firewall), and the starter itself is brand new. I did have time to spend money tho. I know it's not the right way of doing things but I had to try and fix this before moving. Now I have time and a new dmm.
I checked fuse 21 and get 12vs when I turn the ignition switch.
Now what should I check?

 

[Solefly87]

Thanks btw

Thanks again for all the help by the way. And for being patient with me.

 

[stamp11127]

Set dmm to volts dc, red lead on the wire from the ignition switch at the starter relay mounted on the firewall. Black lead must be on a good ground, battery negative post works the best.

With the key "off" you should read 0.0 volts, key in "start" it will read battery voltage unless there is resistance in that part of the circuit.

Let us know what your readings are.

 

[Solefly87]

Fixed!!

Set dmm to volts dc, red lead on the wire from the ignition switch at the starter relay mounted on the firewall. Black lead must be on a good ground, battery negative post works the best.

With the key "off" you should read 0.0 volts, key in "start" it will read battery voltage unless there is resistance in that part of the circuit.

Let us know what your readings are.

Thanks everyone for all of the help. I reallyyyy do appreciate all of the help.
I've had a pretty busy past month with moving from SC to GA To Miami than BACK to GA and now back home to Miami Florida. All the driving done in the expo!!! She held up great.
While I was here in Miami eating with the fam. I grabbed my uncle who's a master mechanic and asked him to check out the expo for me. After 3 seconds he tells me my lock cylinder is worn. He changed it out the next day with a new key and programmed it and it starts up like new.
Thanks again for all of the help.
Merry Christmas Happy New Years

 

[stamp11127]

Glad it was a simple fix. Easier to diagnose being there in person...

 

[Solefly87]

Glad it was a simple fix. Easier to diagnose being there in person...

That's true. Wish I was closer to you fellas or had a fraction of the knowledge that you guys have when it comes to cars!